CableSrv

wow now that person has no life!!! but totally awesome what they did

Ok I ripped out a set of first gen 300zx seats and they fit SNUG in the 240z seat compartments but here is where I'm lost. HOW to mount them ? First glance the seat rails are furthor apart in both directions width and lenght. I have no welder and don't know anyone locally that could help me. So any help you guys can provide would be awesome. from what I can see the stock 240z seats both have flat mounting tabs where the 300zx has a flat rear mounting then a upside down L type bracket and mounts horizontilly I guess if that makes sense kinda like this. _--------| the mount point closes to the passengers door sill is ALMOST close enough to mount for rear tab but the side near trans tunnel is off completly. if anyone could help PLEASE DO SO! I'm lost trying to figure out how to mount them

there is a hidden controll system you can get from them. as far as the vents and the rest it's all the same.

don't go factory ac as it is heavy as fat cow ready to be eaten. go with vintage air ac systems much better climate controll and MUCH lighter. http://www.vintageair.com check out the catalog and look at the gen II compac, or mini series. few ppl on this board are actually using those systems. not sure on price but probably much cheaper than a oem one that nissan would sell you, plus it's lighter and probably alot better at cooling the car off

Ok not to add more info to arguement but I believe it's first needed to know what he wants this for. First single turbos are notorious for making BIG boost over longer periods of time or rpm. Second there are many ways to setup twin turbos. both equal size or one small and one medium size. Equal size twins doesn't do much and I would agree a single big turbo would out perform it. Now a small and medium twin setup would out perform where small spool up time is required. Here is the reasoning of small and medium twin setup. A small turbo is used to get quick instant boost for low psi, while the second medium turbo is used for picking up where the smaller one was at a higher rpm to finish the boost cycle off. Take for example a small turbo setup only to get 9-10psi relativly quick while the second is setup to do around 8-20psi. The small turbo would spool up around 1500-2000 rpms and the second turbo would kick in at around 5-8 around that same time. then the small turbo would basically be stuck at the max psi using a wastegate dumping the rest unused boost while the second uses it's max potential. and both working together to get a 20+ psi! this is normally used in road races or autocross because it typically has quick spool time which means exiting corners tend to keep you in boost if not quickly build it back up. drag you need max boost so rpm doesn't matter nore does spool up time. in a sense it does but that's a bit more technical detail to go into that well I don't really care cause I don't drag race for the most part.

Ok guys and gals, I'm about ready to buy my block and start getting it machined but my problem is I don't really want to buy a block off ebay due to shipping and frieght charges. Does anyone know a local shop or place that sells just BARE blocks ? specifically LT1 blocks ? I'm not looking for a new block but a seasoned one because I've been told they work better when having machine work done to them (something about the metal settling due to many heat and cool down cycles). I don't want a full engine which is what I'd get from a salvage yard so going to one of those is out of the question. Any local guys know a engine shop ? that can get me a block and machine it to 4 bolt splayed main caps ? and bore it .030 over ? I'm in the dfw area so any place within 100 miles is fine for me.

hahaha that's funny

ok so the poly resin is based on how much hardner I use kewl that I can deal with, and yes I most definitly plan to get that book. btw thanks guys you've been very informative

Ok since you recommended polyester resin and hardner I decided to look at fiberglast.com and they don't exactly tell me the work time like they do with the epoxy system. How long is the cure time/work time while using polyester resin ? if it's 20 mins then that is STILL to soon seeing as I'm not good at working in the fiberglass in all the curvs. Unless it has a different setup time then maybe I can use it. any diy websites ? howto's or books you guys recommend on reading before even starting ? I've read most of fiberglast.com and it's really informative but to a point. It really doesn't give a step by step guide.

I thought you guys stopped that project because there wasn't enough ppl wanting to do a run ? If you are doing them then hell yea i'll buy a dash from you EVENTUALLY!! Right now i'm just doing research on what it requires and so forth. Then I plan to do some simple jobs to get a feel for fiberglass! Last time I used fiberglass it ended up in a mess because I tried to use 10 minute hardner on a decent size application and trust me NOT ENOUGH WORK TIME!!! the resin was hardening on my gloves before I could really adjust the fiberglass!!! plus fiberglass was being ripped up as I was adjusting it and causing my hand to be covered in fiberglass!!! so definitly 2 hour work time hardner is needed with me I did a search and someone suggested "competition car composites" book to read so I"ll end up ordering that and reading it a good ammount.

Ok I'm new to fiberglass and the whole mold stuff and I've been reading alot on fiberglast.com about the materials and how-to's and would like to tackle a center console and dash replacement with fiberglass. Here is my question for those who have done fiberglass work before. Obviously I'd be using epoxy resin with a 2 hour hardner since these parts are a bit larger and would require more brush and lay time. My problem is, i'm not sure HOW much resin is enough? I'd hate to buy the 500 gallon drum when I doubt i'll really need that much. I plan to reprep the original dash and center console to uber smooth surface then make a plug of it and apply mold release agent then create a blown fiberglass mold, at this point I could eventually make multible dashes as needed if other asked. Ideas and comments and books, videos, websites ? are appreciated.

Ok WITH LIGHT, I checked the fluid in my radiator and did a good look and it's not oil it's loose dirt/rust ? floating! So head didn't warp nore did my gasket blow! whew!!! Anyway I still plan to take the head off and do some mild porting. mostly just smoothing out the castings and possibly changing out valve seals to the ford part number SS 72686 which is suppose to be smaller and better sealing than the nissan valve seals. What I'm now asking is what specialty tools are needed to remove the head aka what do I need to keep tensioner from pulling chain down ? and what if any special tool to remove valve springs ? or will a basic valve spring compressor work ? Seeing as it's not a warped head i'm not worried about getting it decked but i'll at least clean up the surface.

whoa whoa I think I came off wrong. I'm not decking the head! I'm taking that to a machine shop to get done. And yes i've ported a head before mainly my focus. Second when I asked for what tools I meant specialty tools for instance what is needed to hold timing chain to keep tensioner tight! sorry if I came off wrong like that. I've pulleds heads off cars before just I'm new to Z's and well you guys know more about what is needed than I do and I'd rather ask first before doing then woops forget a step that might be vital!! no I'm NOT leaking fluid and only reason i'm pulling head is because I originally planned to port it. But since I found oil in my radiator fluid It concerns me as it might have blown a head gasket or warped the head. which is why I came on here to see if you guys know what head gasket to get, and how much can I safly deck the head.

Ok guys, I bought my first 240z about a month ago! and Had no idea what was original in it besides a 6-1 header and exhaust. Come to find out it has a l28 block with n42 head with original dual su carbs in a 1972 240z well I did a full fluid change and ran it for a few weeks. One day goign to work having a bit of spirited driving I noticed the car started to get a bit hot almost to the hot side of water temp. I pulled over and let it sit for awhile and it started going back down. I checked the fluid the next day and found I was a little short on water, so I promptly refilled it with more distilled water, then ran it with cap off for awhile to let it warm up. Then I noticed small floating oil spots!!!! Either I blew a head gasket or head got warped due to the heat!. Well I had planned to take the head off this weekend anyway to port it so might as well change gasket, and deck it. Now here comes my question!! I don't have 150 to spend on those hks 1mm gaskets and i'm not doing engine rebuild!! so what gaskets should I get and how much, and how much should I deck the head ? I am porting it so might as well deck it a bit also for more cr. since it's a N42 I would assume it has brass valve seats... but seeing as texas doesn't HAVE leaded gas anymore I would think it has been changed out already to steel ? again assuming. Also any info you could give me on doing the removal of the head and what tools I need or if your local and can lend a hand I'd appreciate it I plan to do this tomorrow and possibly have it reassembled next weekend! giving me all week to port the head!

Ok well being at work I got a little annoyed of not knowing what's in my car and researched where the engine code is and found that it's a L28 block with N42 head bolted to the original dual su carbs. since I've not taken the valve cover off I can't say weather or not it has a aftermarket cam. Surprising what I didn't know of when I bought the car, not even sure the owner I was buying from knew if this was not a stock engine !!

It's fake if you look close as the cat slides off the car you can still see his head is attached and while your at it look at how the body slides off the car!! Plus the car's reflections don't match with the cat. more or less a cg thing done. still funny tho

also if head is warped could decking it fix that ? also how much could I deck a n42 head without worrying about valve to piston clearance ? and anyone know where I can take the head locally to get it done ?

Ok I have a slight problem Yesterday on the way to work having alot of spirited driving on 114... and 635 the car seemed to start overheating. Almost hit the end of the gauge but the light never came on saying I was to hot. today I checked the car out and found that I have a n42 head, and while I was at it I checked the radiator fluid and found that I was lacking some water!!! So I promptly added more water. Decided to let the car run a bit to see if it would take in more water and it didn't. Let it get all the way warmed up and noticed small bits of OIL!!! starting to think me overheating yesterday caused something either blown headgasket or something as this wasn't like that before when i swapped out radiator fluid. I just find it odd. So I originally planned to port the head and well might as well do it this weekend. So anyone know where I can get a cheap head gasket ? Any recommendations ? info on what to do to take head off ? tricks of trade ? hell anything

Ok well today I decided to check the engine out see if I could find printed production numbers. well I couldn't find the engine number BUT I've found the head number and it's a N42 which means this isn't the normal head that goes to this engine!! dunno if it's ported or has an aftermarket cam yet till I tear the head off. Also checked radiator fluid again and I think I blew a headgasket. So.... might as well buy another headgasket and port the N42 head and refill the radiator after a flush again

me and my friend are thinking to go run ennis this weekend probably on saturday would be kewl if you guys could come out and join us

actually i haven't MET Bill in person but more or less in emails. I wish I could see his ls1 z in person i'd just drool!! and yea that would be awesome if you could

Well I've already spoken to phantom once on that subject. Since I work monday threw friday from 3pm to 12am it's impossible for me to come to the meet, since you guys seem to do it on thursdays. Then I guess i'm glad I got it for 3500 To be honest i'm not sure what this car REALLY has in it as this z sounds MEAN. So far 3 ppl have asked me what i've got in it cause it doesn't sound normal, hell it already SOUNDS like it has a small v8... then again only reason I think is because 6-1 header no cats and straite exhaust.. but even then that still shouldn't equal a v8 rumble ? would be kewl if someone could check it out over the weekend and see if there is more done to this car than I think.

Well I haven't really introduced myself yet and well... i've been pretty much just reading threw the boards since 2 years ago and fell in love with the idea of a v8z. I've hardly posted because for the most part I didn't have a z to really look at while asking questions... till now! as of about a month ago maybe more I bought a 1972 240z from a person on classiczcars.com in irving texas! car was in very good shape and easily considered a daily driver. Now I wasn't entirely new to z cars at that time as my mom had 2 z's before a 280zx and a 300zxt first gen, however after hearing this z start up I knew I was in love. The z already had a msa 6-1 header and full out exhaust. Guy said he even added a 5speed trans, 280 ac unit and 280 radiator. He proceeded to let me take it for a nice test drive with my buddy and told me to let her open and so I proceeded to!! all i could say was ..... with a VERY large grin. I couldn't stop smiling at all!!! Now this was my first drive and all I can say is for an old car this beast can handle!!! Well the offer was 3500 for it cash and so I bought it! I've since did a full fluid change and refurbed the gas tank and vent lines. still need new weather seals and shifter boot tho. as of right now I've gotten more ahold of how to drive the z than when I first drove it and this car still makes me grin beyond any car has before. I've sat in a viper and this car even tho it's not as comfy I'd still prefer my car over the viper. this is the person I bought it from and his gallery as I still haven't gotten my pictures developed to put on the web myself. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=4870&thumb=1 I original was wanting to do a ls1 swap but the more I look at it and with my current income ls1 might be to much to try for, so i've lowered my goal to a lt1 but eventually will either supercharge or turbo it. I do plan to get a full urethane master kit, r230, full coilover, mml 13 inch extreme brakes and rear conversion, 280zx master cylinder and brake booster, t56/lt1 and vintage air ac system. along with fiberglass flares, hood, and rear hatch, along with nice side pipes. That is my current goal and will probably take me a year or 2 to get there but it's what I plan!! my dream is a darton wet sleeve 427 ls1 with 6.0 aluminum ls6 head ported with a .650 lift cam with low duration and magna charger set at 6-10psi can we say 600-700hp ?

I believe that z is the owner of a audio shop in north richland hills off rufe snow! the audio shop right across from the crank it up shop. I saw the z before it was painted back when it was just primer and side pipes then when he got it painted never spoke to the owner of it tho. very awesome z!!

how about the billet superlite sl6 ? it uses a 3.5 inch mount setup! any chance that would fit ?