Geno750

I'm really curious about that fuel filler setup you have going on, and what you settle on for the dbw throttle pedal. You're right, the Z one is kinda out of place down there. I'm using a 350Z pedal and tb, and looking at options.

7M-GTE CPS or replace the cover on the distributor and use it as a CPS sensor. Drift motion makes the cover, the 7M CPS is getting harder to find.

I've been wanting to do this for a while. I've already swapped to a dbw throttle body so front wheel speed is all that's needed for me to setup traction control.

New job has had me busy till recently. Might have to do some work on the hood latch. If I wasn't running IGN1A's this wouldn't be an issue. Main thing is it's in there and it's straight. Also started on the rear end.

I'm putting one behind my JZ. You'll want a 4.1 or higher final drive if you want normal gearing with most of the available gear ratios. Shifter alignment with the stock hole is actually pretty good. Especially when you get the motor as far back in the engine bay as possible.

It depends to be honest. I was in a unique spot and had a guy wanting my 1JZ head for a 1.5JZ. I wanted to build up the block and head to ensure I could have a longer powerband, and it seemed easier to just start with a better flowing head with a lot more aftermarket options. Doing it all at once meant I could do things like buy 11.5:1 pistons which only net you a static cr somewhere around 9.2:1 with the 2JZ head.

The block is physically longer on the 2JZ so it's water neck outlet was designed around the longer pipe. The flange where it bolts to the head is also different. I ran into a few interesting issues when doing a 2JZ head swap into my 1JZ block and that was one of them. Here's an older photo to show it's doable with the right combination of parts.

Yeah I'm going to weld it. I've put the motor about 2cm off the firewall.

Two foot surgeries later, I can work on the car in spurts before having to take a break. Here's what I've done over the last few weeks. Finished making the TR6060 from Oz into a T56 Magnum (only better). Got my twinplate clutch in. Went with a Spec twin, and I'll be using a Tilton slave to avoid the disaster that plagues the Spec TOB's. The Spec and like most other twin plate clutches use a thin flywheel that isn't compatible with the standard bolts we buy. Not wanting to grind on ARP flywheel bolts, or buy a set that someone else ground away on I went through the ARP catalog and found these. ARP Part number is 204-2801. Requires a 12mm triple square to install. They're the ideal bolt for this flywheel. Standard bolt is the 12pt, Overkill Z's reproduction of the Betamotorsports crossmember. It required a bit of flex on the factory motor mounts to get it to bolt in all the way, but it fits much better than the CX Racing mount. However, install on a 280Z is a little trickier than I initially thought. Turns out the cups for the tension arm are a bit different on the 280Z and interfere with the crossmember quite a bit. The driver's side isn't too bad, and requires a small trim. The black sharpie tick mark you see is 13.5" away from the firewall. I wanted to get as close to that mark as possible. The passenger side on the other hand, required a lot of trimming. I would have to cut into the reinforced area to get to my 13.5" goal, instead I'm settling for 14" from the firewall, which will put the back of the block 1" away. Now I'm off to get some more c-clamps because my harbor freight wood working clamps aren't going to cut it on the next step of the project.

I've been wondering the same thing about the stubs. If yours are out, take measurements. I've got my S15 helical and stubs on my work bench and can compare.

I didn't like a lot of things with the mounts. The biggest were how far forward the motor sits, the positioning/lean of the engine in the bay. I can confirm that the Supra store and Greddy manifolds fit with a larger turbo than a GT35 series on them. So if you go that route you'll be fine.

I'd avoid any of the log manifolds, like the PHR street torque. Also, if you haven't bought the CX mounts yet, I'm going to be selling mine. I switched to the weld in crossmember style mount.

In the grand scheme of things, the cost to balance a rotating assembly is pretty low, and is worth doing. Especially if you're changing out the clutch/flywheel and crank pulley (unless using a Fluidampr pulley).

Hey at least you can use your printer to make a pedal stop.

Freeze the adapter and heat up the flywheel. Then you're only friction fitting against one thing. That does sound rough. I sold my CD008 and Maverick adapter after running into literally every problem you just typed out. I just ordered my OSGiken twin plate, they swapped to the Corvette hub for me for free. So it's bolt on and uses a Honda Civic pilot bearing. Now if I was doing it again, I'd buy the kit for the CD/JK trans that has you cutting off the factory housing and bolts to a J1/J2 housing. It lets you do the same thing, order off the shelf multi plate, switch to a Nissan hub. Find a pilot bearing with the right od/id and your up and running.

That drive shaft cost is what pushed me firmly over to the TR6060 camp. Slip yoke was so much cheaper and easily available. My delta printer is a D300VS+. I can squeeze about 17" tall parts on it as long as they are 11" or smaller in diameter.

Time to bust out those 3d Printing skills you've been working on and print some covers out of TPU. They should be durable and heat resistant enough to last. That's what I'm going to be doing. I planned to send you some stl's but after having to undergo another round of ankle surgery, I got bored. This was the result.

One trick I've done for the shifter side is use a long bolt that threads into the shifter plate cover. From inside the cab of the car you take a board and your long bolt and use that to hold the rear up. Board Bridges the gap for the shifter. Then you can loosen/tighten the bolt and use washers to dial in the height of the tail side if the trans. Makes making the mounts easier.

That sucks man. Nothing more frustrating than a dumb little thing holding up progress.

It can't squish out, the bearing assembly is too tight for the paper to get in there, give it a shot and post the pictures. It took me two sheets of news paper to get mine out.

News paper bro. Just soak it and stuff it, then to compress it use a socket and tap it down (socket needs to fit inside the pilot bearing). I used this method to remove a pilot bearing that rusted to the crank after sitting for only God knows how long (ma70 Supra block).

1. I didn't bother with that, we just pressure washed the gasket to make sure no dirt that could pit the head/block was on there. 2. The machine shop that did mine torqued them down.

It's not that. The torque plate simulates the head. You don't put the head on without a gasket. For that reason, you don't put a torque plate on without a gasket, as it's no longer accurately simulating the head.

A gasket between the torque plate and motor is required. If you've got a new mls gasket use it. The risk there is it getting damaged, being clamped and reclamped later with the head isn't a big deal.

It's absolutely worth doing. You can rent one from Suprastore, and it's a pretty painless process. Just be sure to save the old head gasket to use with the plate.