mobythevan

What does the timing light show during cranking? Sounds like you'll need a second person so you can look at the timing light will they crank and idle the engine.

You can tune the car with the RRFPR or with a standard FPR. As long as you don't make any adjustments to the RRFPR after tuning(assuming its an adjustable RRFPR, if not then no worries about you cahnging it after tuning), all that matters is that the fuel delivery is the same every time. However, if you do something like this your fuel tables would be useless to a person with a standard FPR. Other than that it will work, just connect the vacuum line to the RRFPR and tune it. It doesn't make any sense to use the RRFPR with a standalone as they are usually a bandaid to help with a non-tuneable ECU or too small of injector, but it will work if you don't want to spend the money to get a standard FPR with a 1:1 ratio.

Seems the bottom line is to use something other than megasquirt if you want sequential injection on 6 or 8 cylinder.

The settings for engine braking are in "overrun settings". Check to see what your TPS raw value is when you are not touching the gas pedal and then enter a number in overrun that is just a few above that spot so it knows when you are off the gas.

I lost track, are you using a v2.2 or v3.0 board?

My reply is still valid, if you want to control spark with megasquirt using an NA dizzy on a turbo engine you will need to lock the mechanical advance mechanism. I know other people have done that.

If at some point you want to control spark with the NA dizzy then you can search around a little bit for locked distributors. Some people weld them, some people put a bolt in to lock it down. Basically removes the mechanical advance mechanisms so you can control the timing from the computer. Be aware that factory ECU controlled distributors have rotor tips that are wider so the rotor arm does not get too far away from the cap post throught the range of advance.

Taking the simple case, no PWM and running high impedance injectors that measure 12 ohms, that would be approximately 14 volts/12 ohms= 1.2 amps Low impedance injectors that measure 2.5 ohms with a dropping resistor of 6 ohms (what I usually run) would be approximately 14 volts/8.5 ohms = 1.6 amps Those numbers are per injector so you can figure out depending on your engine and number of injectors along with how you wired them. This should be good for an approximation. Are there two injector wires in the DB37 or four, I can't remember off hand.

Injector wires and coil wires tend to have a lot of noise on them from what I have seen with the scope.

The magamanual recommends using 18-20 gauge wire. I would be concerned about the injector wires, they carry a bit more current than most wires in the DB37.

That sounds like a good method for changing the table.

I went through the same thing a month ago on my Talon so I could have more entries in the cruising area for better mpg. I did both fuel and spark tables. I printed out both for reference and then changes the BINs and just had to re-enter values and interpolate in the columns that were new. I really didn't see an easy way of doing it.

I would be interested in looking it over.

I just remembered another thing with my friends car. It did not idle smooth and would miss a bit and surge a little bit. A small adjustment to the injector opening time fixed it. Something else to think about.

Yeah, I look at ve analyze's output and see if it makes since to use all the changes it suggests, most of the time I just use a few that seem to smooth the table out. I think my friends car had the same jerking problem getting back on the gas during cruise and it was because he needed more tuning in that area with the AE turned off.

Hmmm... not good news.

You haven't described to us what the engine does when you try to start it??? Does it fire a cylinder once in a while, does it pop and backfire, does it start and die, or does it never fire a single cylinder? Its not that hard to get an engine to start up and die within a few seconds on a new megasquirt install so I am thinking you have other problems. You can put in the cranking and ASE settings from metro's jpeg sticky and it will fire right off (of course you use the calculator in megatune to get the correct required fuel for your injector size).

If anyone else ever needs open source programs emailed to them just send me a PM. Stuff like megatune, megalogviewer, tuner studio, etc. Just in case you run into a problem like Roger did or the download site isn't working.

Assuming your timing is correct, compression is good and all megasquirt wiring and settings are correct then you only have two things you should mess with to get the engine to fire: Required fuel setting and idle screw. I always turn the idle screw so that the butterfly in the throttle body is opened pretty much all that the adjustment will allow for the first firing of a new megasquirt install, that way the engine gets plenty of air. Yeah, idle will be real fast, but then it can be adjusted down once the engine is running. Then changed required fuel up or down depending on wet or dry spark plugs. A common problem is too much fuel on a new install and the spark plugs getted fouled, then it is hard to start even with the correct settings. If you suspect this try a new set of plugs. If you think you flooded the engine, then you can push the throttle all the way down while cranking. This automatically puts megasquirt into flood clear mode so it does not inject any more fuel allowing you to start a flooded engine (just like all modern EFI systems). From my experience, every engine I have ever started fired right off with the required fuel calulated in megatune. I have never had to change the value just to get the engine to start. I have needed to open the butterfly to start several of engines because they had a cold air idle motor that ended up being removed by me during the install so they all suffered from not getting enough air through the throttle body and would not idle correctly.

How did you set the required fuel number, did you use the calculator in megatune? I would check timing with a light, every time I think my setup should work I later find out I had a wire swapped and the wrong set of coils is firing, or some other dumb mistake like that. If the plugs are wet then did you try full throttle while cranking to see if flood clear mode causes it to try to fire up? The new engine has good compression right?

After you crank it over a bit and remove a spark plug is it wet or dry? You really need to see with the timing light that your timing is good. I have a couple different lights and one of them has always worked on wasted spark setups.

I think BRAAP uses the small font so you'll lean in towards the monitor and then he can slap you on the head easier

I can try to email it to you as an attachement if you want, just PM me your email address.

Low batteries lead to all kinds of weird problems with megasquirt, make sure it is a good battery and fully charged.

Using Ve analyze you can have the AE turned on and closed loop correction turned on so that makes it nice to drive around while working on the tune. I recommend driving for 15 minutes at least if you are using VE analyze so you log files is large enough to have a lot of samples.