awd92gsx

That's one big sig pic you got there Ivan...

If you're looking for outright handling...why would you get either...?? You should be getting a Miata, or maybe building up a Datsun 510.

You could even put it on a video CD...

Ghey.

Is the fuel dampener the fuel pressure regulator looking piece by the fuel pump? Is there any problems with removing it? Mine has developed quite a leak...

If V8's suck...then why do Top Fuel and Funny cars run them? The easiest way to shut those guys up is to tell them to come back and see you when 4 cylinders run low 4's at 320mph in the 1/4...

LOL...well...while the 99 R1 has 150hp at the crank, the '04 R1 is scheduled to produce around 180hp at the crank via ram-air.

Most MAF equipped cars dump the BOV before the turbo to eliminate any richness during shifts...it's not really for keeping the turbo spooled.

It still sounds more like what Mitsubishi and Yamaha has done...create an intentional exhaust blockage for off-boost response/power (or even noise pollution) and then remove the blockage under boost for more power...

...I would think would use the exhaust to slow the engine down...wouldn't they put it before the turbo?

I'm about 90% positive you can get pressure activated switches at places like Autozone/Pep Boys. It just screwed into the intake plumbing and had two places for your electrical leads to connect to...just like a switch. Pressure would close the electrical portion of the switch. I want to say Bosch makes them in varying pressure models. I've datalogged cars that have had water injection systems on them and can truthfully say that water injection is no hype. I datalogged a friends Eclipse that had water injection (the one I mentioned). I tried it with the injection and off and noticed a huge difference in the amount of knock (detonation) the engine produced under high boost levels. You'll basically want to find a pump that can supply at least twice the amount of boost pressure you plan on running, plus a check valve.

I had a friend that used to have a page showing how to build your own (it even had an accumulator). My 2000 Supercharged blazer had water/alcohol injection, but, it was pretty basic. Basically it used the windshield washer resevoir to hold the water/alcohol mix and then used a pressure activated switch to actuate a motor that pumped the mix into the intake via a small jet...it worked pretty well.

I have an SPX. I find it pretty useful on my L28 (bigger injectors, stock ECU)... If you're crafty, you could put together a basic water/alcohol injection system for about $150.

You were talking about making a "Learn to paint video" Let me know when you get close, I'd still love to learn. If even I knew the basics I could go from there.

Oops. didn't see that. Ok...I'm assuming you have an adjustable FPR... Does anybody make a set of lightweight pulleys? Electric Fans?

Do I get to race the winner? ... Come on...I only put down 133 hp... I'll even give you a 5 second head start...

Do you have an ignition system (like an MSD?)

$180?!?!? That's a bit off. You should be able to find them all day long for about $100. If not, let me know and I can get you a GReddy for $100 (brand new).

I dunno...but...the more I look...the more I wish my front end popped up like that

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2437990921&category=6434 check that out...

I was looking through the engine page...and it shows the Y40 as being DOHC/32V/EFI... but...in the pictures it looks like a pushrod style carbed engine...??? ok... Went back and looked at the vehicle model page...it definitely shows it having a 4bbl carb...so, that's some contridicting information there.

Hmm....that sounds very simliar to an EXUP valve on a Yamaha R1....although, I don't know why you'd need it on a turbo diesel. Hmmm...now that I think about it...the Mitsubishi Evolution VII has a valve very similiar to that in the muffler...and it's a turbo... In effect, what it does (on the above to applications anyway) is to create more backpressure for low rpm/throttle operation, and then opens up to create a freer flowing exhaust at higher rpm/throttle operation... I wonder if it was something like that...

When I bought my car it had an Arizona Z coilover setup (w camber plates) on it and polyurethane bushings all the way around coupled to 16x8. I've replaced the tires with 245/45r16® and 225/45r16(f) (falken's). The springs are about 300# all the way around. Although the car handles like a race car (that's actually what it was in it's previous life) I'd have to say that unless your roads are perfectly smooth you may want to consider keeping more stock components than mine has. Yes...it is a very stiff (rough) ride, but, I do drive it almost every day (or at least I did until it started spitting raw fuel out of that fuel pressure regulator looking unit beside the fuel pump) so, I guess it's liveable...not something you'd want to impress your girlfriend with, though... On the other hand, as hard as I try, I can't make it fishtail. I've tried to get it to...but, all it does is let the inside tire spin a little and continues to turn normally, throwing you almost out of your seat. I have a GTech and one of these days I plan on measuring my lateral Gforce just to see what I can get out of it. Few cars can outhandle a built suspension'd 1G Z (imho), especially if some weight is removed here and there.

Be truthful... How hard is it to put together for the average schmo?