awd92gsx

Yep That's me. I lost his phone number and email, but he wanted to introduce me to you and your Z since you live so close. If you don't mind, I'd like to chat with you live sometime and possibly look at your Z just to get an idea of what else I need to get... I have at the moment a 350 block/327 heads, carb, intake (EGR), TH350trans, and maybe a few other little odds and ends...

It's possible you have developed a leak between your AFM and the turbo...that would cause it to run lean... Typically, if you have a boost leak, it will run rich, which would explain all of the symptoms except for the white plugs.

That could be rings...but, it could be something like a cracked piston. The only way you're gonna know is to pull the head (or invest in a borescope), either way, the head's gonna have to come off.

Well, basically I didn't have the cash at the moment to spend on an MSD or a tach converter (although I didn't see any kind of tach converters)...and I was pretty close to getting an R1...so I ended up selling the S-AFC to a DSM friend (kinda wish I would have kept it and finished it, though) and used that money toward the R1. I have also decided to go the V8 route (not necessarily for the power, but, more for the sound). I'll be glad to help where I can, it's been awhile, though. I made a chart for myself showing which wires needed to be connected where, but, I don't know if I still have it. I'll have to look. A FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL IS A MUST!!!! THIS IS NOT AN OPTION!!

Bri, Can I stop by after work tonight and check out that Z?

Well...not only that...but...imagine the coolness factor of the bright blue screen glowing in an old school Z...

The S-AFC allows you to control how rich/lean your fuel curve is at different rpm points.

Rhett, do you know a guy in the airforce named Mark? Drives a Trans-Am and I think his wife has a Vette now...she had a yellow Eclipse... BTW, I live in Peoria...just behind the Wal-Mart.

If it's gonna break it's gonna break, might as well turn it up.

Why not a single T66 or something like that?

Running an electronic boost controller was the best way I found to help minimize lag/reduce spikes. Any turbo car should have AT LEAST a 3" exhaust. You can't have too large of an exhaust for a turbo'd car. I personally enjoyed running more timing and slightly less boost than running less timing and more boost...it seemed to help with the low/midrange boost.

Hmm...I'd still like to take a Smog pump from a 350 and turn it into a go-kart supercharger...

I've never removed a Z fan, but, if it's like any other fan, I find that a set of ratcheting wrenches (such as those found at Sears/Craftsmen) work wonders and make it alot easier...

Hmm...I'm gonna have to chime in here... Even the 1G Z's have just about all of the inputs the S-AFC needs to work. All it really needs is: 12v+, Ground, IGN, AFM, TPS, TACH. Everything else is optional. I actually had a S-AFC installed in my '77 and got it to kind of work, the problem I found was that the stock Z distributor puts out too dirty of a signal for the S-AFC to read RPM correctly...however...if you have an MSD you should be able to use the tach output on it to feed the S-AFC a clean ignition signal. You won't be able to use the hi/low feature to it's full effect other than setting base idle and off-idle settings since the 1G Z's TPS is nothing more than a CTPS. You won't find instructions on how to hook it up to an early Z in the manual, so you'll have to break out the factory service manual and be kind of S-AFC saavy to understand the different settings. There is a setting for the flap style AFM.

Bri, I work at Mark Mitsubishi in Glendale. Is Scottsdale jag the same as Scottsdale Volvo? Would love to see your Z.

Bri, What part of AZ?

Oops. Yep, you're right. The JTR kit is for 1G Z's only.

Yes, most IR's can be rebuilt. Unless you bought the gun off a truck (not likely unless you're a tech) then you'll probably have to contact IR about getting replacement parts and/or having it rebuilt. The IR231...that's a composite model correct? I'm suprised you're having any kind of issue with that "weapon" A few guys at work had the IR231 I think...I opted for a CH that I got at WalMart. Believe it or not, but, the $69 CH I got from Walmart was just about as strong as their $300 IR's, but, it did weight a bit more, that didn't bother me however.

hehe...you should name your car... Can't Touch This. Seriously, though, this is a question I bet RacerX could answer. He seems to be one of the resident paint experts.

Jmead, I found this post from you.... From the sounds of it, when you first came here, you didn't realize how to use the search engine either. Perhaps instead of throwing up a dictionary version of the word search, maybe you can help new members out by getting them pointed in the right direction. Just my opinion... Anyway, Defuse, basically, in a nutshell, the JTR ( http://www.jagsthatrun.com ) kit seems to be one of the better ones out there as it sets the engine in the ideal location for weight distribution and has the most comprehensive manual for installing a V8 into a Z.

Paypal affords you no more protection than anything else... I've heard of far too many stories involving people who would sell something via paypal, ship the item, and then have the buyer tell paypal that they never received the item, only to have paypal automatically withdraw the funds and give them back to the buyer.

How did you pay him? For that matter, you could email Ebay and claim that you never got the part...

...well...at least it already has some wheels on it...

I thought somebody said that hooker sold the scarab mounts...

Where can you see the scarab kit? And how much is it?