awd92gsx

Hmm...doesn't the MSD have a tach output of some sort?

I tried taking it directly from the negative side of the coil, hoping that would help, but unfortunately it doesn't act any different...Somebody suggested that the distributor may be outputting a "dirty" signal? I dunno...is there anything special that needs to be done to run an aftermarket tach? I'm wondering if perhaps the SAFC just isn't compatible with the 280Z distributor...I wonder if it will be compatible with the 280ZXT distributor...??? Unfortunately, there is no harness that taps into the factory harness anywhere... Basically, it just comes with splice connectors and you have to cut the MAF wire in half and connect each side to the SAFC... I, unfortunately, have already discovered the TPS issue...I thought they were a potentiometer type, but, like you said, it's just basically an on/off switch...which, could still be useful for something I'm sure... I have larger injectors in already, but I'm not 100% sure what size they are...so, I'm trying to use the SAFC to tune them a little better than I'm currently able to with my adjustable FPR...

OK, I got a hold of a FSM and figured out the wires I need...but... For some reason I can't seem to get the SAFC to read the engine speed correctly...I have two theories on this... 1) The used SAFC I have could be defective...or.. 2) I'm wondering if perhaps the stock tach may be interfering somehow with the SAFC reading...??? Maybe later I'll go out and look at it some more...of course, any suggestions are appreciated... I'm currently plugged into the engine rpm wire at the ECU....

You know, DSM's have a very similiar issue, but not with the axles...it's with the center differential... Most people end up shattering them running into the 12's, but I've heard of people shattering them on 13 second cars...all from the launch... There was one guy, Al Blaha, that, if I remember right was able to dip into the 10's without ever opening up his tranny... Now, if I remember right, the way he was able to do this was by using brake line locks and preloading his driveline, while locking down his rear brakes...that way, when he launched, his drivetrain didn't suffer as much shock when he dumped the clutch... Something to maybe think about???

This is just a guess...but I am thinking that the MSA kit is made by Wing's West, so it might be the same...I could be wrong, though...

That's probably a bit much...you might notice a little more lag, but nothing too serious. What turbo are you running?

Hey, I just found this... This could be very helpful... http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

Probably a 2" to 2" coupler should work. Just Make sure you cap off the I/C piping at the throttle body. 12.7 is pretty fast! I think the results speak for themselves.

Hey guys, Could somebody give me these wire colors and approximate locations on the ECU Connectors? TPS Engine Speed (Tach signal) Power Ground AFM

Did you happen to get the schematic scanned?

I can honestly tell you, no, it doesn't make the slightest amount of difference. My exhaust smell is there with my spoiler (and I have a tall one =o) Of course....not having any rear hatch seals may have something to do with that... I've found that by adjusting my FPR I can get it a little better. I'm hoping I can tune it even better with my Super AFC and possibly eliminate it altogether.

I suppose with a 6 there would be more valves open at the same time, but, in the turbocharged DSM world spending $5 down at home depot has saved many hours of headache tracking down boost related problems, and it never hurts to try When I get my turbo engine installed in my Z (finally have enough saved up to get new pistons!) I'll try it and see how it goes.

Even if you just cap off the end of the I/C piping it's still a worthwhile test. If there are leaks in the piping or boots somewhere it's still nice to find and repair them. As long as you can pressure the intake enough to push air out the leaks it doesn't really matter if there are valves open or not if you have an air compressor that will flow enough to fill the intake. I've never bothered to put an engine on TDC while performing the test. However, a good time to perform the test is if you have the camshaft out for any reason (like when upgrading it or something) that would leave the valves in the completely closed position.

LOL, no, you won't spin the impeller by filling the intake system with compressed air. I've tested dozens of cars personally and find that about 9 out of 10 cars has a leak *Somewhere* in the system. It's a fairly common DSM trick and I've never ever heard of anybody spinning their turbo by applying compressed air via the above method. There just isn't enough velocity through the elbow at the low pressures (no more than 15-18psi max) to spin the turbo at the speeds you're talking about. You can find boost leaks at clamps, injector o-rings, throttle body o-rings, gaskets, etc...You'd be amazed at how much a little boost leak can affect the way a car runs. It probably wouldn't affect a Z as much as a DSM, but a boost leak can affect ANY air flow meter equipped car in one way or another.

That depends on which kit you get. On my 280Z I had to remove the front and rear bumper assy's...which required dropping the fuel tank down just a little bit. Some kits add onto the bumpers, while others completely replace them. So it really depends on which kit you are getting. As far as how it's actually mounted they pretty much just use the factory mounting locations (you will have to drill a few holes in the bodykit, though).

I've done it both ways at the same time on the same car because a fellow tech started crying about how you have to hold the throttle plate open (in all honesty, I just forgot to hold it open). I didn't see enough of a change to make it worth redoing. Maybe a psi or two. There are too many places for air to be pulled through into the intake manifold for it to be a completely tight seal.

btw...yes, you should have the throttle plate open when you do a compression test, but, in all honestly, it will only affect your test marginally.

I've heard of people having good luck with using normal bicycle pumps. In this case, though, I'd put an airtight cap on the intercooler piping at the throttle body connection.

Heh...well, it took a couple of weeks to get mine in from MSA, but...it seemed like a couple of months. Actually, everything was in stock, except for my F40 spoiler.

Actually, the easiest way to find boost leaks is to make a boost leak tester It's actually quite simple. Basically, you go down to home depot and you buy a 2" to 2" coupler (or to whatever size your turbo is, but a 2" rubber coupler fits most turbos, unless they're really big =o) a small PVC 2" 90 degree elbow, and a PVC cap (to cap one end of the elbow) Then, you drill a hole into the cap and insert a male air hose quick disconnect fitting into it and use a nut to secure it from the other side. Seal it with silicone after it's secure. PVC Glue the cap onto one end of the elbow and put the rubber coupler onto the other end. Pull off your AFM to turbo intake pipe and insert the testing tool onto the inlet side of the turbo. Using a REGULATED air supply, pressuring the intake to about 12-18psi and just listen for any leaks that you may hear coming from the intake system. If this sounds confusing I'll try to find a picture of what I'm talking about...

Cool...have you checked for boost leaks? Boost leaks can REALLY slow you down.

Nope, I believe they are the same. I can check with my DVOM to be sure, though, if you could post up the schematic. Thanks!!!

Any luck getting it figured out?

All ECU's are different, but many modern ECU are sequential up to certain RPM points and some batch fire at certain throttle points, too...

Hey guys, Well, I finally got the Super AFC that was owed to me and will be installing it probably next weekend... However, I don't have a FSM for my '77 280Z and was wondering if somebody could scan the ECU schematics for me. It looks like the Super AFC won't have any problems connecting to the Z's ECU. The SAFC has settings for the Flap style AFM and is adjustable for different types of TPS systems...so I think it should work just fine... I'm going to experiment with getting my larger than stock fuel injectors under control without having to mess with the adjustable FPR. The problem with the AFPR is that I can tune it fine for high rpm, or fine for low rpm, but can't seem to get it quite right for both...that's where the SAFC will come in. If nobody can scan the schematic for me, I need to know at least these wire colors off of the ECU... Power (that one I can find pretty easily) Ground (should be black I'm sure) TPS signal AFM RPM (tach signal) That should be about it...thanks for any help I may receive!!!