awd92gsx

Air/H20 IC's are great. But, are they worth the extra time, weight, and effort involved? Not in my opinion. Also, unless you add ice to the system, you are really just creating a complex air to air IC anyway. (You're using the water to cool off the I/C, and you're using the radiator to cool off the water, but what cools off the radiator? Air =o) You say you don't want it to "look" like you have an FMIC..you can always grab a sidemount I/C from a saab or a DSM and mount it in one of your fender openings so that it wouldn't be seen.

As much as I hate to say it, I'm sure I could build my turbo to beat many V8's...(it's already built)...but...I am mainly after the sound =o) Which I won't be able to get from my I6

I know a guy that knows a guy that had a complete running 305 for "less than $100" If he still has it, I'm going to pick it up. I have a built turbo engine that's just about ready to go in...but...I sincerely crave the sound of a V8 in there =o)

Of course...being a Mitsubishi tech...if I had a $20 bill for every valve I've seen bent due to a broken t-belt...I'd be able to swap in an LT1

I have a billet fuel rail for O-ring injectors...if you'd like I have a couple of pics of it...

Does Ross keep pistons on the shelf for L28ET's?

Hey, I'm kinda glad our filler cap isn't in the same place...otherwise I'd have to remove my spoiler every time I filled up

I can't remember if it was one of the Buschuer cars or one of the Extreme cars...I want to say Tym Swytzer...but I can't recall for sure...

Just so that nobody is confused on my stand in this position... I agree that The Rb25DET/Rb26DET,Rb30, etc...is a great swap into a Z (or any car for that matter). I'm not too familiar with the Rb20, but with a 215hp rating I don't *personally* think it would be worth the expense over an SR20DET, *unless* it had more torque than an SR20DET across the entire rpm range. I'm also curious as to where the displacement is being *lost* in the Rb20? Is it a very small bore, or is it a short stroke? A combination of both? If the SR20DET (which I know little about, other than I've seen a ton of fast Sentras with them) produces similiar power levels, then I can certainly see the advantage of running this engine over the RB20DET due to it's shorter length and possibly lighter weight (which would increase handling)

Ok...so maybe 1900 was a little light, but, even at 2100lbs it is still 1100 lbs. lighter than a Viper (which was posted as having a 3300lb curb weight). Actually, you don't need to run megaboost to get power. I remember seeing a 700hp 4G63 that was running only 19psi. I also remember seeing a 9 second DSM using a 4G64 bottom end that never shifted above 7k rpm... (check out magnusmotorsports.com for a little more info...although, he wasn't the originator like his site says...but, we won't go there...)

Oh yeah...btw... A 500hp SR20DET in a 240Z would bring it's weight down to about 1900 lbs., if not less Now, a 1993 Dodge Viper was listed as having 400hp and ran a 12.9. Respectable. So, let's figure in another 100hp... I'm guessing that'll probably equate to about a...umm...12.4 or so? Let's even go as far to say it will run an 11.9 A 1900 lb car with a 500hp 4 cyl. will probably run closer to a 10.9, if not much faster.

LOL...never say never. Remember when they said 4 cylinders would never run 13's? I do. Remember when they said, "OK, fine..but...they'll never run 12's.."?? I do. Ok, so now we have 4 cylinders that are knocking on the 6 second door... I would personally rather build a KA24 or a 4G64/4G63 hybrid (as outlined in another thread) and have more "6 cylinder" type torque than build either the Rb20 or the Sr20DET (which if I was going to do that I would just swap in a 4G63 since they are cheaper and more available and just as strong, if not stronger - granted, it's not a Nissan engine), but definitely see the advantages of having the smaller lighter Sr20DET over an L28ET in a car that is primarily designed around handling. Unless you've owned a high performance 4 cyl (by high performance I mean at least 300hp) then chances are you're only giving your opinion, not your experience. I've owned a 300hp (around) 1990 Eagle Talon and about a 350hp 1992 GSX (I say about because it's very difficult to dyno an AWD) and would LOVE to drop either engine into my '77 Z in their present form. Sure, I'd lose a little bottom end but the rush of mid range and top end would more than make up for it. By the end of the run I'd have forgotten what I missed on the bottom end... Which is where the 2.4L stroker comes in...then I could have my low end, mid range and my top end (due to the increased amount of torque across the entire rpm range)

I don't think Dave will be able to help much, but let me know if you find anything out... Tony...can you fill me in on your MAF conversion for a 1G 280Z ECU? (btw...get that damned 7MGTE running already!!! =o)

anybody else notice the "Turbo Diesel" badge on the back of the z?

Hey...the 4" model flows over 250cfm!! Wooohooo!! I wonder how that would work on my lawnmower...oh wait...my lawnmower is electric...hmmm.... Now, if you used four of them...that would be over 1000 CFM...

...Any thoughts or comments on if the Tundra V8 would be a good swap??? There is already one out there with close to 1600hp stuffed in a Celica (ok...so it resembles a Celica...)

I never got that far, but I'm positive it will be able to read the AFM. There is a flap style AFM setting. One problem I found, though, is that you can't use the high/low throttle setting since the Z's TPS is only an on/off switch that switches at anything above idle...or at least that's how it is on my '77...

I don't understand the Rb20 swap...it seems like the SR20DET would be a better swap...the engine would be lighter and cheaper to obtain, and would set the weight of the car back farther...or am I missing something??? 215hp isn't that much for an inline 6... As far as the Rb25DET...it seems like a cheaper and just as good swap would be the 7MGTE, which can handle about the same amount of hp, but can be found for alot cheaper... I look forward to seeing the results of the 7MGTE swap that is being done right here at HybridZ.org.

I'm just curious... The RB20DET is a 2.0 inline 6 right? Why not just use the SR20DET?

I just attempted to install one into my '77 280Z without any luck. The problem is that I can't get the SAFC to read the RPM correctly (even using the 6 cylinder settings), so until I get that figured out I will have to put it on hold... It may read the ZXT dist. better, though...I haven't gotten any clear answers on why it won't read the '77 280Z distributor signal, though... I may need to invest in a tach adapter to clean up the signal...

These include, but are not limited to, higher compression forged pistons more than likely a metal head gasket (such as HKS) larger turbo (probably at least a T04E) head porting/polishing, possibly oversized valves higher degree camshaft front mount intercooler (FMIC) larger injectors adjustable FPR Possibly some type of engine management heavy duty clutch Limited slip R200 rear end, you may consider a 3.90 Now, some people have probably run 11's without everything in the above, or using some stock components, but, I believe they are the exception, not the rule...

Well, it'd probably be cheapest to go with the GN engine swap. There's a few out there and they all seem to be fast!!

How's the 7MGTE into the Z project coming along?

At one time I was ready to purchase parts from Arizona Z (since they are in my home town), but wasn't prepared to have to spend a minimum $1000 on parts to get a single piece. So, yes, I would consider purchasing pieces if I didn't have to order a minimum of $1k.

Hmm...they have them listed for 240Zs...will they fit 280's?