awd92gsx

Have you plugged off the vent line going to your valve cover too see if that changes anything? You should not dump back into the valve cover. You should dump back into the intake (between AFM and turbo) or into atmosphere (this may cause some richness between shifts)

If it wasn't for the Toyota 2KGT, we probably wouldn't be driving our Z's. Now, everybody has their own opinions, but, I'm sure more than one person has claimed the Z is "an ugly car"

Which TDO6 turbo is it and how much does he want for it?

The only thing that makes me wonder if it could be anything to do with timing is that it is not making any boost... Now, usually, even if cam/crank/ignition timing is off, an engine will still be able to make boost, it just may be a little slow about doing so...

Zgad, Email me a couple of pics and I'll be glad to host them for you...

On one of the recent MSA catalogs (before the newest one I believe) there is a red Z with the chrome trim blacked out... I'm still liking the idea of doing that, and then having the center section of my wheels powdercoated black and leaving the outer section polished... And now, for some reason, I wonder how my car would look with a cowl hood... Will it ever stop?

How much was the cowl hood?

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html I hope this helps...

There are so many things that affect lag, it's not even funny. The include, but are not limited to, compression ratio, turbo size, clip, intercooler sizing, I/C pipe sizing, wastegate control, wastegate design, proper/improper air/fuel ratios, timing, manifold design, camshaft selection...just to name a few.. I think a good sized intercooler for the T3 would be something closer to a Starion sized FMIC, or something like the 18" wide Griffen... That FMIC that you got is a little big for the T3, IMHO...however...if I were you, I'd stick it on, stick your turbo on, and go have fun! Trust me, you won't notice the lag. You'll be too busy wiping trying to wipe the grin off of your face!! Now, if you were running a T04E, the FMIC you have would be perfect...but...a T04E will lag more than your T3...but, there's quite a bit of misunderstanding when it comes to bigger turbos and more lag. Here's a good example... When I owned my 1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX it came stock with a Td05h-14B(stock M/T turbo), which is roughly the same size as your T3. I ran 17psi with the 14B. Later on down the road, I upgraded to a Frank 4, which is closer in size to a T04E (it even uses a T04E compressor wheel in a reverse 20G housing). When I bolted it on I left it at my wastegates lowest boost setting, which was about 9psi (on a Deltagate). Eventually I ended up running 19psi with the Frank 4...but here's the thing... If I hooked up a video camera to watch the boost guage and the tach, you'd probably notice that the boost guage went up slower with the Frank 4 than it did with the 14B...but...if you drove it, you'd feel that the Frank 4 was faster throughout almost the entire powerband (but at high rpm's especially) The F4 felt stronger at 9psi than my 14B did at

Hmm...have you checked for any split I/C boots? It doesn't sound like an internal engine problem. Usually, even if you have hardly any compression, you will still be able to rev. It almost sounds like you're running extremely lean...does it have the same problem if you're just sitting there idling and then goose it to rev it up? If so, try mixing in a small amount of propane via a vacuum line (do this with care, please) to richen the mixture some...if it runs better with the propane mixture, then you're definitely running way too lean...which, could indicate a torn boot, bad AFM, or other problem... I posted a link to build your own intake leak tester (not to be confused with a leak down tester or compression tester) that you can use to pressurize your intake system to check for torn boots, cracked pipes (not crack pipes), or any other boost leak source...

Hmm...so this tape, is it a permanant type tape? (which would be great if it was)

Hmm...that's a good idea, I may try that...that way I know if I'll like it for sure... I'm not sure how long the black tape would last in the AZ sun...

Damn. That's alot of room then =o) I haven't gotten under mine to see how much farther I could go in, though. I'm about as wide as I can go on the wheels I have, though...unfortunately, Ultra hasn't made my wheels in "several years" (according to a company rep), so I'd have to spend a buncha money to find something to replace them with. Oddly, I can't go up very much farther with my coilovers, but can probably go down a couple of inches...They were installed on the car before I owned it, so I don't know the exact brand. It's a pretty stiff ride, though. I once talked to the guy that actually built the car (for the previous owner) and he told me the car was built for road racing (it also has camber plates, polyurethane bushings, etc...) and he told me that the springs are pretty much the stiffest springs he could get (at the time anyway)...I want to say something like 300 #'s? When I first drove it home after buying it I was thinking..."jeez, I bought a rough riding piece of junk"...but now I wouldn't trade my suspension for anything

Hmm...what about the silver moulding that goes around the window? I'd like to have it painted black...would I go through the same process?

Tim, Do you have rear fender flares?

I'm also running a set of coilovers and have a set of 245/45r16's in the rear. I'm not sure about Tim240Z's, but I was able to fit the 245's underneath the completely stock wheelwells with the coilovers.

Zero, Yep. Those would be the heads I'm talking about. When I attened AAI (Arizona Automotive Institute) we watched a video about them...I was pretty impressed and still can't figure out why no automotive manufacturer went with that setup. It would be quieter, more efficient, cheaper!!!!, and have less problems.

Ahh...I didn't get the sideskirts, so I can't say how well they fit. I liked it better without the sideskirts myself...

You're absolutely correct, but, you're thinking about only the piping. You won't have pressure drop across the piping, but, you will have a pressure loss if the piping is much larger than the outlet of the turbo. Imagine having an air hose with 90psi in it. Now, imagine having a fitting that dumps into a garbage can. Although you will have 90psi in the hose, you will have much less pressure in the garbage can UNTIL there is enough air there to equalize the pressures. Having too big of an intercooler and piping will cause a *temporary* pressure loss between the turbine outlet and the throttle body. Now, with a high enough CFM turbo this will hardly be noticeable, but the T3 is, in my opinion, not a high flowing enough turbo to warrant having all of that extra intake volume...now, if it was a T04E or something like that, that'd be different... So, in effect, what I'm saying is that both of you are right. There will not be as much pressure loss across the FMIC and piping, but it will take longer to pressurize the FMIC and piping. You want as little piping and FMIC as possible while still having the cooling effect... (hence the reason for water/air IC's) One of the biggest problems people with MBC's face is that they oftentimes run too much vaccuum line and run the wrong size of vacuum lines going to their boost controller. I ran an MBC for awhile and found that I could minimize boost spike by relocating my MBC and running silicone lines (which didn't expand as much under pressure, every little bit helps)...of course, the design and build of the MBC has alot to do with it, too. I did, however, have an external wastegate...

Actually, zcarsmakesmyhead hurt is right, Having too big of piping WILL cause a pressure drop, sort of... Remember, before you can pressurize the intake manifold, you have to pressurize the I/C piping and FMIC... I ran this FMIC on my DSM for a couple of years and loved it, especially for the cost... http://www.turbochargers.com/currentspecials/FMIC.htm When I ran my Frank 4 I was forced to get the boost signal directly off the intake manifold. Using the Profec B I never had any kind of boost spike...the only downside is that if you are in high load/low throttle situations your turbo may be spooling unnecessarily...

But...isn't the 1G Z a 4 lug?...or am I thinking of something else when I should be sleeping

Found out that the '77 does have an external regulator, they just hid it So, unfortunately, my '83 Alternator won't fit the '77, however after spending $15 down at Autozone (thank God there are 24 hour Autozones here) I can at least get it to charge now...however, the battery is toast so it won't accept it...

Anybody know if an '83 Turbo 280ZXT Alternator will work on a '77 280Z?

PS...although, not camless, there are already valveless heads out there...they're pretty cool actually... I have no idea how to get a hold of the company that builds the heads, though...A few years ago they were in the prototype stage, but were functioning very well... PS...I passed my audition, but had to turn the position down due to the time required...

Actually, they've been talking about it for some time now...I've even heard of 96v prototypes out there... Basically, for every 12v, you can cut the wiresize in half... Imagine having 12-16 guage starter wires In a new car there can be over 200 miles of wiring...all that wiring can add up to alot of extra weight and the size of the wiring harnesses can detract from useable space for the passengers and other components... I'm personally looking very forward to it...