rsicard

SUNNY Z: What makes the Ford 8.8 IRS -31 Spline axle shafts with a 1.32" diameter, stronger than the Z31 Long Nose IRS differential? I have beefed up a 240Z with the Z31 Long Nose and beefy stub axles. Up till now was going to go to DSS to get the BEST CV half shafts with the best materials available for same. I have built a SBC 383 stroker with the absolutely best components and looking for 500+ HP/TQ. Really do not want to snap any rear end components. Looks best that I get tires that give/smoke under extreme torque.

SUNNY Z: Is that the 300ZXT half shaft stub that goes into the center section that SNAPPED? Which stub axles were in the car when the stub let loose? Was that a R200 center section/differential that the stub was inside? What do you figure was the amount of torque applied to the stub? Which engine and trans are being used? Please advise. Thanks.

The flasher is used for both LH and RH turn signals. If it works for one, then the flasher component is OK. Highly likely that the turn signal switch needs to be repaired or replaced. This is one of the systems that was UNDER DESIGNED. Once proven that the turn signal switch fixes the RH signal light, then it is time to make the system better. When turned on, Headlights draw 10 time the normal running current for a VERY SHORT time at turn on. This is TOO fast for the fuse(s) to react, yet imposes an arcing of the turn signal switch contacts. After many uses of the turn signals, the switch contacts fail from arcing at turn-on. There is a modification to add relays such that the high current goes through the relays versus through the turn signal switch.

Joe: Please send the contact information, telephone number address etc., for the Holland Factory for the Electric Power Steering. What method was used for payment? Thanks.

Joe: The electric power steering sounds very attractive. What exactly did it take to make this conversion? Were the original turn signal and headlights stalks retained? What steering wheel and mechanical interface were used in the conversion? Would be nice if there was a somewhat detailed write-up on this conversion. Thanks.

The equivalent to the rubber chevy truck mounts are the PROTHANE 7-509-BL(ack) mounts that can be ordered from Summit Racing.

Ryan: It is preferable to use flat top light weight forged (SRP Professional Series) pistons such that the combustion flame front DOES NOT have any obstructions to travel across the piston. Compression ratio can be achieved by milling the cylinder head and using different thickness head gaskets to achieve the desired compression ratio along with near zero decking of piston height relationship with the top of the cylinder wall. The block deck can even be milled such that the piston is protruding ABOVE the deck of the block but not more than the thickness of the head gasket. Additionally, use STUDS for crankshaft mains and cylinder heads as they give a TRUE torque value. Using BOLTS is messing with FALSE torque values. With a 0.060 inch overbore and 3.75 inch stroke yields a 388 cu in displacement. You will have FUN putting the car back together. Good luck in your efforts.

SUNNY Z: What is the part number of these axles ordered from The Driveshaft Shop or did you just order the half shaft axles ONLY? Please advise. Thanks.

SUNNY Z: What is the rear differential gear ratio of this car? I have a T56 behind a High Perf SBC 383 and am very interested in this VIDEO. Trying to know what to expect.

Ryan: I think the 3/4 inch steering shafts are OVERKILL. Suggest that you use ARP STUDS for both the crankshaft and cylinder heads. These give a much more accurate torque. I purchased an older Snap On torque wrench that has a dial indicator of torque. I am going to use it along with an ANGLE INDICATOR also. The angle indicator assures that each tightened STUD has the same amount of STRETCH therefore much more accurate torque. I used 2.5 inch mandrel bent tubing with glass packs along side the T56 transmission back to a "Y" then into 3.0 inch mandrel bent and then to Flowmaster Series 40 muffler. The glass packs should knock off the high frequency component of the exhaust note and the Flowmaster should attenuate the lower frequencies but should still sound GOOD. Personally, I would hard block only 1/2 way up the water jackets to reinforce the bottom end. Then coolant can still be use to cool the cylinder heads and upper portion of the cylinders. I really like to ceramic coat the top of the pistons, Valve faces, underside of Exhaust Valve, Exhaust Ports and the WHOLE combustion chamber by using a used head gasket for masking. Flat Pistons are the best for cleanest combustion. Otherwise using dished pistons should have the best possible quench/squish pad area. For normally aspirated engines, it is best to have ZERO deck as the pistons are flush with top of the piston bores. Which block are you using to achieve 434 cu in?

Boggero: It is VERY DIFFICULT to have a less expensive reliable solution to 350 - 400 HP at 6000 feet of altitude. The cost is nearly the same for a 350 or 383 short block using a cast stroker crank. Then use 6 inch connecting rods and Hyper pistons which MUST be ceramic coated when Turbo/Supercharged. When using boost, the cylinder heads still have to FLOW an adequate amount of air. You might get by with Vortec Heads and a $2000.00 Vortec supercharger (4150 carb) kit from Summit Racing.

Bradyzq: Research the conversion to the HPV Ignition CAREFULLY. To use the HPV will require a 280Z tachometer and rewiring to interface with HPV. The tachometer in the 240Z is a CURRENT sensing type whereas the 280Z is a conventional design wherein the switched side of the coil is connected to the tachometer. I am going to use the Electromotive TEC3 total engine control for Ignition and Fuel Injection. It is the best design that I have found. In the near term, it may be beneficial to use a 280Z distributor converted to a Pertronix switching module, 280Z tachometer maybe a hotter coil and appropriate small wiring changes.

Boggero: You are headed in a good direction on the engine. Rather than using a Turbo, just build a GOOD NA 350 stroked and bored to a 383. With good internals, good cylinder heads, camshaft, rocker arms and Induction you should be able to approach 500+ HP/TQ. See if you can find a salvage '96 - 99' Vortec SBC to rebuild. These has Vortec heads, roller camshafts, taller lifter bores and 1 piece rear main seal crankshaft. These block should have been CNC machined. They also had Electronic Fuel Injection which has a much more clean burn and less wash down of cylinders by gasoline and therefore much less wear. At the rebuild process it is just as cheap to bore and stroke to 383 cu in. Use Flat Top or Dished pistons to achieve appropriate static compression. The better the heads and camshaft, the better the power output. Make your decisions based on goals and budget. Air Flow Research (AFR) makes the best heads bar none. The better the research, the better the outcome.

Ryan: Went with 20201 and 20113 part numbers. The latter part no fit directly onto the shaft of the Datsun rack and pinion box. The other end is 3/4" x 20 spline. The 20201 is 3/4" x 20 spline on both sides. Used a Borgeson block and bearing to mock up the center support which attaches to the frame rails via 3/4" x 3/4" welded angle iron. The Borgeson block/bearing is bolted to the angle iron which in turn can be bolted to the frame rail.

Scott: What is the Spec on the paint on your Datsun. I am considering repainting my 240Z and like your paint as it is lighter shade of grey.

Ryan: The other supplier of steering components is http://www.borgeson.com.

Ryan: The supplier that I purchased steering shaft parts from was: http://www.woodwardsteering.com/images/steering%20universal%20joints.pdf. I purchased an intermediate bearing from another supplier and fabbed a mount for the bearing for the two-piece steering shaft. You have to patient and VERY carefully study the situation in order to achieve the proper geometry in order to clear the headers. I will look up the other supplier for the bearing and mount for same that will mount to your custom made bracket which must attached to the frame rail. Use WOOD dowel from the Hardware Store to insert into the additional steering shaft universal joints to get the right length of the two to achieve the proper geometry to JUST clear the header.

Ryan: I also purchased the Sanderson CC178 headers. They DO interfere with the steering shaft. Mocked up a work around two-piece steering shaft for the manual steering. With this much effort to make the stock steering rack work, already had purchased a 1999 Subaru Forrester power steering rack to convert to PS. Also purchased another front cross-member and am in the process of modifying it for the Subaru rack. It appears that this route will be easier to make the steering shaft work perhaps a single piece further outboard clearing the Sanderson CC178 headers. I also opted for a high horsepower SBC. Specifically, a 383 stroker with all forged bottom end, AFR-195 Cylinder Heads, CompCams Solid Roller Camshaft, Pete Jackson camshaft Gear Drive. Going for 500+ maximum HP and TQ. It has been VERY HOT here in Arizona. Have laid off the project for the hot weather. Back at it when it starts to COOL.

RebekahsZ: A T56 for an LT1 can be used with a LSx engine. The LT1 T56 has a shorter input shaft than the one used for the LSx engine. Get the input shaft replaced with the longer one for the LSx engine. It is common place for hydraulic throw-out bearing to get clutch dust into the fluid line to the bearing. I have a LT1 T56/SBC and will purchase a Quicktime Steel bell-housing as a safety measure containing a clutch explosion. The slave cylinder is external of the bell-housing and therefore should not have the darkening of the clutch fluid do to clutch dust infiltration. I already have the pull type slave cylinder from McLeod for the standard GM LT1 T56 bell-housing. You don't need to go to a Quarter Master Clutch system.

Duragg: Which Pilot ratings do you hold? Multi-Engine must be among them. It takes a VERY competent pilot to handle the MU-2. Used to fly them on coupled Instrument Approaches back in the Midwest. They get somewhat unstable on approaches especially at lower airspeeds with spoilers in place of ailerons inducing yaw excursions. Still working on my 240Z V8 conversion.

Went to Comp Cams and downloaded engine analyzer program. Loaded the known parameters and the horsepower slope came out steeper than 45 degrees. It peaked at 6000 RPM. The Torque curve peaked at 4500 RPM. That substantiated the narrow power band of the 327 engine. Best to shift and keep the RPMs from 4000 to 4500 RPM to keep peak torque to the wheels.

Vega: Crack testing is one thing. Sonic testing is another. When your car finally gets to the track, you will find all the weaknesses. It will be a shame to spend all that good money and not get the performance you are seeking. Again you will be shifting like a mad bandit to keep the RPMs above 4000 and below 6000 in the corners and straightaways. These are the FACTS, not emotions.

Warning: Don't go to 0.060 over without sonic testing the cylinder bores for adequate thickness. If the lower portion of the cylinder walls is thinner than desired, consider HARD BLOCK at least half way up the cylinder jacket. The 327 will have a narrow power band from 4000 to 6000 RPM. You will need to shift like a mad bandit wearing out your right arm. Start out with a late model SBC Vortec Block and stroke to 383. Then you would have some GRUNT and plenty of torque for straight line and corner acceleration. Using a 327 is wasting money on an under performer racing car.

Alainburon: Where did you get those louvers installed in the lower portion of the front fenders? I really like those and would like to incorporate those on my 1971 240Z. Please reply. Thanks.

Ron: I have purchased the 411 PCM, harness, fly by wire throttle body, electronic gas pedal etc. Needed TAC module but did not purchase. Already spent thousand dollars and still not purchased the software yet. Discovered Electromotive TEC3 ECU on Ebay. Researched and found this ECU is Infinitly tunable either NA or blown. Purchased all the extra stuff for the Electromotive ECU. Using it in place of 411 PCM. Electromotive has another later design TEC3 coming out that will spit out serial digital CAN bus. This can be interfaced with a Digital Dash. Research and consider the Electromotive TEC3 ECU.