SHADY280

You can get the brass bushings cheap. Go to the parts store and grab a 90's caravan door bushing kit, its a help product, they fit perfectly

Please excuse me if i missed this in my searches. I have an opportunity to get some z31 cv shafts with the 4 bolt end. I was wondering if they will fit into my 79, r200 3.9 ratio if I flip the cages around? Ive searched google and here with mixed results and most of the info out there is pertaining to s30 chassis cars. Frank had swapped in some z31 shafts but i believe he did the 5 lug swap at the same time and I wish to use 4 lug wheels, there are nothing wrong with my 17x9.5 rims. The guy selling these listed them as 280zxt shafts but when I got his pic I quickly noticed they were not 280 shafts, the 280 shafts are very difficult to find here as everyone hits up the yards upon new bodies arriving. Thanks for any links or opinions presented.

Wish i had the money lying around, I'd so buy it and continue the business with joy.

Wow just read this. My condolences to his family. I have met Frank and Ross over the years as i live all but 30 minutes away from him. I found his car after it was stolen, unfourtunatley it lead to a police chase where it was wrapped around a pole and destroyed. The car was a v8 car that was his test platform for all his great parts. Thanks for all the great days!!

Porterfeild rs4 pads. They have them for the 79 style rear. I think it was 80 a set, I am like you and not having the cash for going big so they are the next best option

Here ya go, old school roadrace bob sharp. Made from an 8' piece of .040 2024 aircraft aluminum i nabbed from work.

yeah i hear ya max, so far ive had interest on it and 2 people want it, but because of life and such just cant do it. i dont blame them either, one guy was gonna come from michigan for it, just rent a uhaul trailer one way and drive home. way way cheaper than shipping and car that is only a shell with extras.

I have pix somewhere but I think they are on glossy not digital. The frame rails are the hard part but before you cut it all out make some templates of the original. Just cardboard taped together. Using a piece of rectangular tubing shaped to the floor pan would work the best and be very strong to jack from

jeez i was about to say i have an 82 california car with restored body for sale, but im out here in bc!! (calvin cough cough) my 79 had the same if not worse floors. i made templates of the parts and made new ones. that to say i also made jacking points with thicker steel and a flatter floor as well. i had to do so many areas on the floor all the way from the firewal to the rear. took me 13 months of nights to get it done. i learned lots on the way, but for the 82 resto i had a rotiserie for it and made life very very easy. was able to strip and paint without gunk in my eyes and without a sore neck and back. just follow the threads here on how to build them from 2 ghetto engine stands

i have roundtops with manifold, linkages and heat sheild. they need to be rebuilt but have no shaft wear. 120 for the setup. pm me if you would like pics etc

I have one thats a virgin with 30,000 miles on it, been wondering the same question, I dont need it. One thing stopping me is shipping it as i live in canada. have the cam and spraybar, everything. Someone decided to try and put the motor in an mg or something years ago and never ran it, a friend got it, knew i like datsun and gave me the L24. Even came with round top carbs that were complete

mallory offers a replacement e-spark module for those that is more durable and actually cheaper than the one that the old models come with. the old module was very sensetive and would leave you stranded. the new one can handle the voltage without resistor. i had to replace my module when i was trying to make it work with megasquirt. i felt it was more accurate than the reluctor style my 79 had stock

my freind is the parts manager at my local nissan, ill give a call to him. what diameter is the impeller so i can ask him to measure instead of going there. do you think the part number would be the same for a canada pump. and if he has them how many should i get???

i like the n/a idea, high rpm like tony sees. i have an e31 virgin head if you dont, and you need one.

yeah i did end up installing a pullup ressitor in the lines and it still didnt help. its smaller than the 82zxt dizzy one tho. i followed the instuctions from the mega manual for it tho. something is going on here and im gonna have to trouble shoot it down. heck maybe ill just put edis on it and be done with dizzys all together. only thing is, i want to have ps and a/c, it seems most people omit one or the other to fit the 36 tooth wheel.

with this setup can you have all accesories??? i like my power steering and a/c. so far thats been what holding me back from going this route.

ive removed the entire ms system from my car for bench testing. i havent had a tremendous amount of time and just want to drive the car a bit this summer. im gonna unhappily put in the stock efi stuff again. im also gonna get the full version of tunerstudio to hopefully help with the diagnostics. there has to be something going on. and of course more reading, i just dont understand whats going on here, i think i found a dizzy signal using the datalog, but cant find the saved file, but pin 36 still wont give output to the coil. and still no rpm signal on my guages on the laptop when spun by hand.

i tested it using mallorys instructions, they say apply voltage and ground. then attach a dvm set to 12v+ to the output trigger. wave a card or obstruction thru the sensor and watch the dvm, it should go from high to low, or vise versa. ive been thinking about putting the original dizzy back in just to see if i can get something. altho id rather have the optical dizzy as its far better than old technology.

installed a resistor as per matt has suggested, still no rpm signal, and tried a new optical sensor in the dizzy just incase it was bogus. really need some help here guys, is there settings im missing in tunerstudio?? anyone in my area who would like to make some money looking at it.

i have headers for 50 plus shipping. round ports with egr and o2. 2.5" collector

i have one, in pretty good shape. havent seen it in some time, but its gonna be expensive to ship id think. pm me for details, i can send you pix if your interested

update* still no rpm signal, disconnected the msd box so ms could fire the coil directly off pin #36 and wired the coil + directly to the battery for diagnosics. any help appreciated here guys. and for ref. i have the dizzy output signal going to pin 24. the diagram shows a reluctor dizzy with a neg to pin 2, but i dont even have that on my db37 connector. dizzy is grounded to the same clean spot as all the sensors.

Hello all, please help, read through and see if i have it right. I have ms2 v 3.57 with a mallory unilite on my n/a 79. I have everything wired and soildered together, sensors work well. It seems I cant get an rpm signal to ms. I checked the optical and it seemed to be screwed (out of the car it worked, short to ground i figure), so got the upgraded 6100m e-spark module and it (out of the car) makes the signal change. I also have an msd 6a and tach adapter that were in the car when it was running the stock ecu. For that wiring i have the white msd wire going to the blue tach, msd pin #36 (brown), and tach adapter white. The other is the small msd to blackwhite stripe and red tach adapter for power. does that sound correct. Im using tunerstudio as megatune wont seem to connect on my netbook. What setting would i use with this mallory for dwell, trigger and such. It came from another member who had it running btw.

as for #1, yes use the mesh, oil will come thru without it #2, id go with the je instructions as you are using je pistons #3, loctite is a great thing, use a blue so you can get them out later, red just makes life difficult #4 i have a leak free engine for 5 years now, i used felpro gaskets, a metal head gasket. put a extremely light coat of rtv on the more prone ones, then let set 15 minutes and tighten bolts to spec. dont over torque it causes warpage and guess what, leaks #5 wipe down bearings or any engine internals with a lint free good quality cloth. then use assembly lube with a very clean finger to apply a film. this makes initial startup not so painful for new surfaces. dont forget to fill the pump, then prime the oil system.

j i have several afm's if you would like to try one being we are close enough. my closest is from a 79 but it should be the same. the 240sx uses a different airflow system to calculate ratios, so one of the more popular aftermarket systems would be the next logical choice. as far as that boot, a piece from a turbo 280zx afm lower boot section cut shorter actually fits quite nicely.