SHADY280

You may want to read a wiring diagram. The fuseable links defenatly can go, but you'll need to put something there to distribute the power thru the car. I used a maxi size fuse block and ran everything to it. The relays are there to control headlights, horn, etc. Read the diagram for that. If your auto transmission, then its realy is there too. Dont be scared of wiring, think of it as point A to point B. Most things that the wiring connects to has a purpose.

heres mine, a little worse for wear. made it from aluminum

you will have to run the 82 ecu, its quite a bit different. the head temp sense it required to adjust fuel during warm up etc. and the o2 would be nice, the ecu actually reads it a bit, not sure how much it affects the tune, but i found the 82 ecu to run the car nicer than my 79. fuel pump on always isnt so bad, at least its on, can be dangerous if you roll it and catch fire. its a recirculation system, so the excess fuel just goes back to the tank. could be a relay or timer switch. hows everything else work, does it run??

ill pm you, what is your location? the shipping company doesnt know next to my camel. lol

i have the spare tire cover. great shape, problem would be shipping, im in canada.

if your cam was off, you would know it. unless the po installed it wrong, these things typically dont jump, they have a double roller chain. the o2 sensor goes in a welded bung in the exhaust pipe close to the engine. it reads digitally and accuratly the air fuel ratio so you can tune the engine. you need the wide band type. the narrow band type is only good for full throttle, and isnt that great. I never trust what a po did anyway, they usually lie to sell the car, even with recipets

ah the only law here concerning suspension cops look for is very low. and the tire must be taller than the body to ground, so plus sizing the rim solves that. good to know those details, im looking for a set here one day, just has to be a good deal

do the rear bolt on using the s130 top hat?? ive been reading and think this is the case, but im just trying to make sure. same with the front top, or does s13 tops work in front? to rectify the rubbing problem, would it be bennificial to get a shorter coil, then turn up the adjuster? it looks like you have some room to do so

mario its an "a" or "k" stamp, but cant remember, sold my last one to hoov, he would know.

wow that guage is off. or your compressor guage is off. there not always accurate either, but a good start to something fishy. sounds like you need a wide band o2 to see what the mixture is. thats the way to somewhat calibrate the afm. with these cars being monkeyed with so much by po's you never know what you have. even what looks original may not be, plus age has to play a role as well. id run some seafoam thru it to reduce the carbon possiblity, you can use water as well, but its whatever floats your boat. then you can play with timing and mixture.

my buddy had 2 sony xplod 15" subs and a amp to match in his s130. it actually blew our hats off with the air movement from the rear hatch area. it wasnt pretty but it worked. hard to fit the correct size box for stuff that large. for one 15 you need 30"x30"x30"

i wouldnt be concerned. it just means that someone may have raised up the compression ratio. if so you should run higher octane fuel. did you put a bit of oil in the cylinders to do a wet comp test? this even raises the numbers more. that being said, it could mean the valves are getting stuck a bit, but i highly doubt it as all the cylinders are close to the same. running rich means the person that upped the cr may have played with the afm to try and get more fuel for the top rpm range. 15 deg is fine, as long as no detonation is heard under hard load etc. with the cr upped, youll have a nice snappy motor with more power than stock. enjoy

Id upgrade to a gm one wire alternator or simmilar high power alternator. Also get a good quality battery like an optima yellow top and upgrade the wires as well. might as well do things correctly the first time, it usually saves money in the long run

i should find one for ya. but we go to a goverment center not a independant shop. they dont open the hood here, they used to but the public got up in arms and they had to stop. they test our gas cap to start with with a vacuum tester, that is our evap test. they plug in the obd on newer cars to check for codes, even if you have the light disabled, they wont pass you if you dont have at least 3 world cycles on the ecu after clearing. they do a cat visual, but aftermarket cats are o.k. as they do work the same. mine has flanges and is taken when not in use, just to keep it fresh because of cost. newer cars get dyno'd on up to 100kph, on a varying rpm range tp simulate driving. older cars just go 40kph, then idle for all cars.pulling the injector works well for bosch type systems, ive proven it with customers car time and time again. it creates a bit of an air pump scenario, even on stock sytems. you need to bump the idle up to 1000 and it idles rough, but the readings show it works. if i was in cali with those new laws it would be very tough to pass as they actually inspect things. but if racers can plumb and hide nitrous in roll cages there must be a way. our system was based on what looks to be the now old cali system. we dont have the volume of cars here so they are actually thinking of shutting down emmisions testing. new cars of 7 years and newer dont have to go, and 92 and up get tested every 2 years. not many are around 92 and under. like you its too much of a pain for people to keep them. its sad to hear that you will get rid of your s130, but at least you have a s30, and that i can also appreciate very much

here in british columbia, we have identical smog laws to california (we even use the same dynos, except we have 4wd ones). all cars must also go thru them, no exemptions, unless it has collector status (hard to get). the secret is to learn how to out smart them. my car has 10.8:cr and a lumpy cam. stock ecu (soon to be changed) i used to unplug one of the injectors to make it run right as i have it basically tunned for extra fuel high up, so it fails on idle every time. i also install a cat. my car doesnt need one, but i need it (get it really hot). retard the timing way down, and run 1 liter methyl hydrate. over inflate your tires for less dyno drag. its alot of extra work, but i would never stop owning a s130 just due to smog laws. there are ways around them when your a mechanic

is that the 79 year #33 in the background? where is that? would love to see that car in person

they look like american racing torque thrust. friend of mine had them on her cavilier

My brother has a snap on gun thats huge, most power ive ever used. If you put the line pressure up to full resevoir pressure, then stick gun lube in the fitting, and i mean extra, it really gets extra power to it. Dont do it too much as you could blow out the seals. 30 seconds isnt much, go more. Heat the nut as well, even a propane torch will help. The nuts in the 280zx have a metal tab bent over the side of the nut, its very hard to see, but it needs to be bent down, or the nut wont move. The gun is the best solution as you dont need much to hold the other side. The more things you stick on it to hold things, the more chance of you or others getting hurt there is. I am a proffessional mechanic, and sometimes these things show up, and the customer expects it, so brute force and using a tool SLIGHTLY beyond its normal limits is required. Thats why tools have warranty.

If you are looking at crown vic rotors, there are 2 different ones depending on year. The newer cars have a different offset. Also, you may be able to use the rear rotors, they are vented as well and pretty big. I used to do police maintance and always looked at the setup as viable if a hub was found. you can also get cross drilled rotors for race aplication, or heavy street. The crown vic calipers are dual piston and have a great large pad, just need mounts. They seem to be close to the right spacing for mounting as well. I like the floating rotor as well, quick to change and no messing with the bearing. My question, whats your rear hub solution to match?

I agree with the above. I went from too much compression to a steetable amount and was able to bump the timing up. Difference was huge.

thanks sir!!

aparantly 300zx mounts just bolt everything in. dont know what years tho. im going to assume z32, ive been looking but not alot of info for s130 rb swap crowd. most searches if done give only quick info on the mounts.

balance is super important, i skipped out like you and thought the extra money/time and small variance wasnt all that important. its close enough. yeah i should have never done that. now im thinking about pulling the motor to do it after near 40,000km. it runs like a champ, but after running in another persons ride that was balanced to perfection, ill never do that again. lesson learned