SHADY280

heres where i put mine

no problems with a stock cam or even a .5 lift cam with flat tops. i have this setup. you really need the shims and lash pads. when you raise the towers, it angles the rockers down, so you need to invest in those too. doing this really yeilds a decent amount of extra power and i highly recommend it, but do it once and do it right.

i also am going down this road. i have ms2 v3.57. there is tons of info in the megasquirt section. problem is there is too much. it soooo easy to get swapped reading it all. but it does start to make sense. with the coil pack ignition, you need to mount a toothed ring on the crank, but i have a/c and that makes things a bit more difficult. most use that space to mount the ring. so what i plan and suggest is to get the car running with a dizzy, then upgrade the ignition later. a bit more work, but it will allow you to understand the megasquirt in stages and not be overwhelmed

i remember that picture of that falken mustang on its roof with the roll cage sticking out the floor. i just dont know where that one went. put it in the what not to do file.

pm sent on zdriver where the other convo is, new gaskets and clean, needs throttle linkage to each carb, po bent and broke them. stupid ppl

hey fubar i have a set of 40 dcoe's, im willing to trade if you want. they need a rebuild, but have all the right jets for a l28 and short manifold perfect for a s130

the size of the pulley can be different, from 79 to 82 at least. they will give your acessories diff. speeds. i noticed this one day when i had 2 motors side by side.

i emailed him for that one, hopefully he would be willing to ship it to me. i need it for my bob sharp racecar replica

i have a low pro whale. kinda nice for the street as i dont need all the downforce and gas being the price it is.

i left in the heat sheild and removed the webbing, manifold is touchable when running normally now, before i couldnt touch it. i havent seen any increase in mileage or power, but i havent dynoed it.

im with brapp on this one, i had my engine at 11.8:1 cr (ported polished mildly worked over n47). it was a mistake, i couldnt run full timing, it had good throttle snap, but you could feel it was missing its full potential. i installed a p79 with less cr (10.8) and ran full timing and it actually felt better, still had good snap and better top end.

i have a 625/650 that is freshly rebuilt, run they removed. i value it at 100 bux. its got the ford linkage on it as well.

^ i second that, the rear has the tabs for the e-brake, the pistons spins and can make the pad tilt

i have a 10.8:1 motor, p79 decked .080" ( i know not on the list) i run 94 octane and stock efi ecu and injectors. motor is bored .040 over and has 60mm tb and raised fuel pressure. i can keep up, and just barely loose to a 07 stang gt with his traction control turned on thru 3rd gear. needless to say im swapping to tripples soon. drzed, good to see your still alive!! his yellow car is impressive to say he least, here it is

i read once in hotrod magazine about fans and such. they did actual dyno runs with the same car with different fan combos. a static fan with no clutch uses 25hp!!! a fan clutch style uses about 10-15 depeding on clutch and electric of course was very minimal, about 2hp with alternator loads. i install a blaster 2 coil on most everything i have, it has a noticable seat of the pants feel, and great increase in fuel economy. i once installed one in a customers stock 82 280zx. he thought i had some sort of magic trick. i dont know, if the engine runs smoother, it has to be making more power. thus not being true for everything tho.

upgrade your coil, and pull off that mech fan, youll be very surprized by the results. itll net you more than the rest of your mods.

also another expense is if you do the work yourself. labour is stupid expensive. i did a complete down to metal resto on my car, replaced a buch of panels, at least the ones available. i spent 5000 on my motor, and about 5000 on the rest. the car is a nice one, but no show car as i dd it everywhere, incuding a 5000km round trip to msa!! as for my r200, it has 200,000 km on it, and still has never been apart, just the cover to check it, and a fluid change. why mess with something that is fine.

how about a source for the short heim links to each carb as well. mine have the yellow plastic ends that are all shot.

no extra mods were made to this car, the customer couldnt afford any more bits and pieces. it actually drove really nice under power as well. didnt dart or feel wobbly. i havent heard from him in quite some time so maybe its wrapped around a pole in cali somewhere. it definatly needed a lsd in it tho, that much power with one tire was just a recipe for disaster. if your frame isnt rusted, i wouldnt worry about that part first, id do a strut tower, big brakes and a set of 255/40r17 tires.

tried the koyo number, no luck, but i figured that would happen, im gonna give them the dimensions, maybe they have another.

modern-motorsports has stuff that will put coils in all 4 corners, but pull out your checkbook

i did a 425hp 350 swap into a 81 2+2. used the jtr kit, went smoothly and was extremely good platform

there is a local bearing place near me, they seem to get all the wierd bearings somehow, ill phone monday and check the koyo number and see if anything they can get crossed over for you guys. this bearing shop has saved my butt too many times.

i have my heat sheild, but i cut the manifold webbing out to allow air to pass up thru the runners. i did this as i feel the heat was getting trapped under the manifold. the manifold is now cooler to the touch, as before i couldnt touch

i just used the flex-a-lite dual 12 kit and it fit great, not much fabrication. its the e-220 fan. ive put this into 2 s130 cars now, one with an L6 and the pictured one with a 425hp small block