SHADY280

where do the tests actually get performed??? like where i nthe usa? i could potentially have my car available if the s130 guys would like. its got an old school airdam and low pro whale tail. see pic below. i can understand if you not wanting s130's for testing tho.

hahahaha good work skib!!! i used to work as a mech for my local police up here. i asked about db testing and they even gave me their meter. i asked on how to use it specifically and they even had no clue. there was nothing stating distance and rpm, or load or free rev. i even looked thru the rules and there was nothing other than 94 db limit. so i tested my car under all circumstances, mine was good untill under load at very close proxcimity. even at 6800 rpm!! 321 header 2.5 mandrel and turbo muffler.

try your ball joints as well, ive had those do the same, but if the tie rods have some wear, change them first. to do a better test, drive the car on ramps or on a drive-on hoist, get someone to wiggle the wheel slightly, take a light and watch the suspension parts move. it will give more resistance than moving it jacked up by hand.

its been said somewhere here before, but its due to different ways of rating hp in the years, the 170 is crank, before driveline loss, the other is wheel hp. try searching to avoid flameage.

this is the best pic i could find of my racecar playing nap time. i just took a square tube and fit them into the frame rails, they stayed put nicely. i used a jack all to get it up and down from the mounts. mine is also height adjustable via pins that are drilled thru the main mast. the car after some por15 and lots of undercoat removal

heres one for you guys, my engine has a p79 head, i milled it the .080" and to make up for the gap i used my n47 head valves which are 1/8" longer. it worked properly only because my valve train was shimmed up .080" to compensate. so my lash worked properly with slightly thicker lash pads for the re-ground cam.

heres mine, not all that fancy, but it works for me, other say its cool, kinda went for the original racecar look

check the group buys section, there was a guy starting to make parts, he has all the moulds.

id say 82, unless work has been done. those 6 spoke 14" rims were on all n/a 82+ cars. the hoods are swapable.

when the unit is in the car, remove the little black box from the dizzy, make sure the connection to it is not touching the housing and try again,. it is possible it is grounding the little black box out to the housing of the dizzy and making no spark. also check your cap and rotor, they may have carbon trails that are grounding something when it is grounded in the car.

i say save it, but im from b.c. canada, i saved my car, and yes its cooler to own a car you saved. specially if you do it yourself. then you can brag.

i have the msa 2.5" setup and 321 header, it really pulls harder when you take the muffler off, but they always tell me to put it back on at auto-x. im over the db level from 50 ft facing the other way!!! i like the system with the turbo muffler, but it really holds the engine back. think i may switch to flowmaster when this one wears out. 3" really would boom and make tons of noise, really its too much unless your race application or turbo

did the swap for customer, even hooked them up so he had power adjust and the little air pump for lumbar and such. because the power motor on the driver side the cross member had to go and be changed. made for less leg room and less head room tho, i didnt like it, but he was short and loved it

wow good find, those are moulds, you can see the bracing on the outside of them for stiffness. they prolly weigh a bit more as well. start making pieces!! i need a bumper cover,hood and maybe the headlight buckets.

thanks for some of the links i shall provide them to the cars builder. dont know about the temps. ill get an answer i really am just a messanger who is in the s130 club. the car is actually a parts guys who works at nissan in b.c. canada. he got me on the case as i am a member here and have some time to ask for him. he used to be a crew member on the stillen team years ago. he has some great stories.

yeah i thought the specific engine forum would be the best spot, you would think, can i get this moved if thats the case.

we got the extenal stuff done, its just been the internals that give way. nobody seems to build these with the correct parts, it had eagle rods, but they were shaved down on both sides, but it makes the oil hole not line up. the other engine builder left shavings and his tolerances were out to lunch. ill tell him about scat rods, they dont care about price, 2 engine have been close to 40,000 out the window. its a high dollar race car expected to perform by sponsors no less.

o.k. guys, heres where the fun starts, i need an engine builder, not just anyone, i need someone who really can build race motors. its a roadrace car and it has gone thru engines like they're free. ztune here in burnaby screwed us up, and a z place in cali screwed us. the eagle rods we are using have oil galleries that dont line up due to poor craftsmanship, and a major design flaw. so what i need is a person or shop to build a reliable motor (more than 1.5 races we currently get out of the motor) one of the motors came with metal shavings in it!!!! anyone across the continent do such a thing? there has to be someone. this car must race this year a do well sometime, the sponsors are waiting.

if you really want, the fsm actually has specs that tell where it is supposed to be at certail points. it may require bending the rod the float is on, but it will be accurate. mine does that too, but i dont feel like pulling my tank out, not really worth it yet unless the odo breaks.

i dd my 79 n/a, major mods done to it, but stock ecu and injectors. getting 23 ish mpg and not just granny driving it. i havent a clue what my a/f ratio is, but its off and i need a wide band, but the butt tells me its quick. if i got megasquirt prolly would be much better. mind you i need 94 octane.

theres that little plastic circle on the b pillar, remove, use 10mm on ratchet, remove, pull gently on plastic housing, there are 4 spindles on the pillar cover, pull absolutly straight out and they shouldnt break, if they do no biggie, they are just there to stop it from spinning, and they space it out properly.

wow, great read, does anyone know what happened to the bodies? or the whole cars for that matter? ive never seen one anywhere.

yeah the prices in the lower mainland have gone skyhigh. its hard to even find a donor car anymore, well unless you hang around with mike, he has them all!

i saw that add, as it is a local car to me!! the price is insane tho.

well do a comp test, and pull the valve cover, other than that, you gonna have to do the 1/4 to find out. either way it sounds fun.. but why 10.1 cr with a turbo? he did it the funny way.