SHADY280

here is a writeup i did to help memebers with the intake gasket re&re http://www.zdriver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18779

johnc could answer better than me, but 6"x6" seems to ring a bell. they are sized by the sanctioniong body you are racing in. they also must be of a specified thickness. the rules tell all, but some people just cant read!

builder said "floor plates, aw heck just leave them out they add extra weight" wow

yup heat from a propane torch, and i used a sharpened wood chisel, they are stiffer than putty knives, and can be bought in a set with different widths. ive done 2 cars now, and used por-15 on the second one and truck bed coating on the first, both being a good option for re-coating the bottom. with the both i used epoxy primer to seal the bottom first.

so sorry about forgetting about the one manifold without egr, they arent common up here. i run methyl hydrate for smog purposes, i add 1 liter on a full tank to help clean up my emmisions. with a decent sized cam our smog laws dont let you get away with much. run good quality fuel and keep tire pressures up and clen oil as well. i add a cat just for smog to get my levels lower as well as dumping the timing to about 4 deg.

i just flew thru smog with no egr. these cars really dont need it. i left mine but its unplugged and all operating hardware is removed. all z's came with egr, it just depends if someone has installed a blockoff plate

i used .075" steel for mine, and yes longer valves would work, but ive also used .120 lash pads to take up the slack, but i also have a re-ground cam, not new billet

technically an upgrade just because its more accurate timing at higher rpm. better for upgraded ecu's

ha!!! good the hear you got it fixed. good thing dumb mechanics like me are around lol

looks to me like the wipe pad is crooked on the rocker. its not a bad wipe pattern, but i understand your concern that it isnt pefectly straight. my cam was kinda loud when it was new, but went away after a short period. how is your valve lash and did you break in the cam??? both super important

id test your maf, there should be specs on voltage and which pins to test when. my wifes xterra had simmilar issues and it was maf. the ecu didnt even set a code either, so i had to test each part. i thought it was going to be dizzy as well.

i have 3.9's in my car with a l-series. but my local courses are tight. although i hit 7000rpm sometimes on a bigger course. never use 3rd either. at 64 mph, id still be in second, i also have a 82 transmission. maybe with a early 5 speed it may be different

i too went to go on jsk's site and it seems to be gone, anyone heard from juan lately????

my car is super solid at 130+, but maybe its all the new parts, airdam and spoiler, plus the wide low pro tires. you can actually feel the squat as speed increases. ive only done it once, that dang thing just kept on pulling, if it was safer i woulda kept going

i have converted my entire car (s130) to led except the headlights (duh) i had to use an electronic flasher unit to make the system not blink too fast, but other than that it was very easy. i got all my leds from ebay from a seller called ushd. he was fast and all product worked great. you just have to search as if it was a bulb, use the same number and the correct led will come up. as for which color, the best thing to do is use the same color led as the lens it is behind. this makes the color very vivid and sharp. i saved 20 ish amps from converting, which also frees up alternator drag and a very very small amount of hp.

reminds me of mine with just the header, or when i pull the muffler off for shows. i got pulled over once with no muffler, i just told him it fell off and i had to hear how it sounded, got a warning, but had to pay the speeding violation.

if you are going to beat the crap outta it, you may wanna check out msa for their timing chain tensioners, they are rollors, not guides, expensive tho, but kinda like insurance if your going to be doing this sort of thing, they also offer a reinforced timing chain as well.

your front looks o.k. id be a little concerned for the rear, it has no support other than horizontal. if a large bump was hit could it therotically move (bend) upwards. could use some extra tube running to the main hoop? im no cage designer, just a looky loo

ill check for cam letters before i send you one, if i find an "a" model, that you shall get.

have you actually checked the spark, not just installed new plugs???? get a dumb buddy to hang on and see!!! next is the fuel leaving the carbs, do the plugs get wet?? even if it say had a vacuum leak, it should still run, and being only the middle carb went out for moddification, the outer 2 should still start and run the engine.

if he is still using the turbo ecu and injectors, it will run rich, also check the dizzy, if its flat and round, its a turbo dizzy, if its narrower and taller its na dizzy,

im a member at ratsun, we have lots of info on all sorts of builds. like posted above look at the engine and general discussion thread, as well as the project datto thread section. its basically the same as any L series motor, cam pistons headwork. get a 219 sss head and go from there.

very nice mike, there is a skyline local to me for sale with the same hood treatment. he even did it exactly as if he opened the hood, just like yours. now you have to keep it as clean as on your hood so it matches!!

i went and checked my car, the 280zx has calipers on the rear side below the strut mounting, i just didnt know the 240 well enough. maybe was confused looking at an upsidown caliper

i think the calipers are supposed to go rearward arent they??? no body to get in the way of there. kinda like a 280zx setup. i dunno never payed that much attention