spork

I've use the nason line of paints...and well, they're better than some, but far from top of the line. Personally, I thought the build and coverage wasn't real great, but you can still end up with a decent finished project. As far as the PPG concept line...never used it.

I bought mine from VB last time I needed a set for my zx

Most of the time your problem is cause by a wet tps plug. You pull the plug and I bet it has water in it. James

Alright, I've done a bit of searching and haven't come up with all the answers I need. First off, I have an l28et built with forged pistons with a compression ratio of 7.72:1 (flat tops w/o valve reliefs and using a 2mm hks gasket). I'm using a p90 head with a stock turbo rods and crank and the cyl. were bored .30 over. I'm looking to purchase an aftermarket cam for my car, but I wanted to know what the max lift I could run would be. The engine is completely assembled and I really don't want to dissasemble it to put clay on the piston if there is a simple math calculation I can do. Or am I not going to be any where near having a problem with clearance with my setup. I've never heard to much of an issue with valve/piston clearance, but I want to be on the safe side. James

Any updates or picture on these seals? I'm going to be needing to do this myself fairly soon and would love to see an installed picture and idea of how far down these seals need to be installed.

So Scottie, can you get me a good price on the kit since you know the guy???

Sorry man, I wasn't absolutely sure that this was the same kit you were referring to. I know when I've got the money, I'm getting it, I hate paying for the c-16 also!

A 110 volt welder will work fine, but you'll be a lot happier if you can get one taht uses gas instead of that flux coated wire stuff. You'll get a lot nicer welds with the gas and be much happier in the end. Flux coated will get the job done, but won't look near as nice. I prefer the lincoln over a miller becuase it allows fine adjustment of wire speed and amps while the miller will generally have a nkow with "clicks" for each adjustment. I never seem to be happy and want a setting inbetween the "clicks". Thats why I bought a lincoln!

check out the turbo buick webiste http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=14 this will put you into the water/methanol injection forum and read up on posts there to educate yourself. To me, it looks like the guy named "razor" has one of the better kits. Heres a link to his site. http://www.alkycontrol.com/?ref=turbobuick he uses a progressive controller that ads more water/methanol as you build boost, that way you don't get a sudden shock of methanol when it turns on. I'm currently running a cheaper spearco kit on my car and plan on upgrading to Razors kit as soon as money permits.

When I broke mine...it actually broke between the splines and the flange slightly twisting the axle before it broke, leaving the threaded portion and splines still connected in one piece...that make sense. I can get pictures later if you're interested. Mine was on a 280zxt tho. Just thought I'd throw out that info.

If it was anywhere close to me, I'd buy it and strip it if it was in to bad of condition...hell, at that price, he's giving it away.

I've got one of those mufflers from summit also...mine was also 3 inch in and out...and what ever the shortest length was...it's really loud...but quieter than open downpipe! Who cares...mine spends 50% of its time running down the 1/4 mile.

I'd go with Ross over Venolia any day. I had a very bad experience with Venolia and experienced just how bad their customer support can be (as well as their product). It may have been a fluke, but are you willing to risk $500-700 on it? Ross on the other hand is great to deal with. I've never dealt with JE tho.

You figure out how to do it for under $1500 plus cost of the tranny, and I'm in!

Steel and aluminum prices have been the biggest cause for this. The used trailer market has been keeping very high re-sale prices. If I were you and you get an enclosed trailed, go for an aluminum trailer w/ them "v" in the front. They cost a little mor, but you'll never regret it and you can pull them with a 1/2 ton if needed. They pull like a dream!

I know others have had good luck w/ venolia...but if there is something wrong with your pistons when you get them, their customer support is horrible. I will never deal w/ them again. They cut my pistons crooked and lied to me about there being a problem with them. I had several shops verify they were crooked as well as measuring them myself, sent them back to them, they re-measured and said they were fine and refused to help me. The owner "Frank" wouldn't even return my phone calls, and they would lie about him being there when I called. I couldn't even once talk to the owner to try to get things worked out. Buy your pistons from some place like Ross...I've never had any problmes w/ them, I just went w/ venolia because I could get a good deal on them. It turned out to cost me much more than what I would've payed for Ross or JE pistons. Whatever you do, don't buy from venolia! James Roraback

I'm using the profec B (early style). I love it and haven't had any problems. Quick boost response and everything is always steady.

actually, if you would post that info on here if you can, that way anyone can get to it if they need to. If not, just emial it to me as I'd like to have it on file. datsun280zxt@sbcglobal.net James Roraback

Depends on what exhaust housing it has...the real question is would you be able to get by the compresser surge that you'd most likely be seeing using it on a small displacement engine...that you're probably even serious about this...

It's pretty simple. Never seen Jesse James use them, but I use them on semis now and then. It's basically a peenable rivet, correct? I use an air hammer on one side and a metal dolly on the other side. Bump it with the air hammer and your done...or you can peen them by hand if you want. Another alternative is a stronger rivet which is called a "huck". It takes a special gun to install the rivets, but they are real strong and can leave a nice smooth head. you can even get counter sunk rivets so they sit flush. The tool is fairly expensive, but you may be able to rent or borrow one. James Roraback

I'm running a stock 60amp alt. in my 280zxt as well. I'm running a laptop hooked to a wideband O2 along side of my sds Em4-6f with a 2800cfm electric fan and haven't noticed any charging problems w/ my setup. I've got the usual other items that will suck up current as well as headlights, stereo, extra gauges, upgraded fuel pump, and so on. My alt. has always kept up, but I'm sure it's on the limit or exceeding it, and I'm running all stock wiring. I don't see you having any problems, but a lot of alt. shops out there can upgrade/modify your Alt rather inexpensively. I don't know how they do it tho.

I suppose if the ecu is an issue, I have one from an 83 280zxt that I would sell also...lol