spork

Do you need just the sensor? If you do, I'd sell you one cheap. I've never tried swapping distributors, but I believe they use the same wiring connections and would be basically plug and play operation. James Roraback marmalade42@hotmail.com

I bought mine from pallnet also, clean rail, but I did have to tweak the mounts a little bit because the injectors would leak...15 min and it was perfect tho. Now I've got a custom intake and made my own new mounts. Much better looking than jauns and sturdier than pallnets. I probably haven't been a big help, but if pallnet would make one for you, thats where I'd buy mine...actually, I'd make my own next time...lol

definetly 42...and theres nothing quite like a pangalactic gargleblaster....(I think thats right) lol

I'm interested as well. Hows the shop doing and what kind of ballpark time frame would we be looking at?

First off..."bondo" is old and out dated. Get something good from a body shop supply store. It doesn't cost anymore than bondo. As far as getting something that doesn't crack, you probably want to try things over from the start. Get a 2 part adhesive meant for bonding parts on (like automix/duramix adhesives). You can use this for all your filling needs around your vents too. Its strong and resists cracking very well.

I'm using ferrea valves also...nothing but good luck w/ them. They were about 25.00 each as well...

Plenty of exercise and try to eat right...lol That being said, put in a full cage (for safety) and that will help you cut out and remove supports that aren't needed for strength anymore. You can go one more step and weld up all the seams on the car (not for the faint of heart...theres a lot of work doing this). Then theres the usual stuff, fiberglass/carbon fiber parts, light weight wheels and tires, lexan windows, and absolutely nothing on the inside that you don't need (and that includes that heavy dash). Just build your own dash out of sheetmetal. It should be possible to get a car down to 1800lbs which would be about 2000lbs w/ driver...depending the driver. Then just add lightness!

not a bad idea...as long as the moderators would be up for additional work

I personally went and had robin @ superior friction build me a clutch. I'll be straight honest with you tho. The clutch I now have in the car is holding, but the first 2 clutches he sent me were worthless. So I got a clutch at an awesome price...put I pulled the tranny 3 times. I'm not sure he really believed me when I told him the hp and torque numbers I was aiming for. I'll just leave things at that. If you're interested, do a search for his website or e-mail me and I can get his phone number for you. If you're familiar with Jeffp's 280zxt, he did the clutch for that car too. James

ever slip your knuckles on a spray on bed liner...some are sharp, some are rubbery...they all hurt bad! Why not just spray the engine bay with a more durable clear like dupomts 3480s(used to clearcoat imron 6000). I've seen a litof trucks come into my shop after we've refinished them with 300,000 plus miles on a paint job and they still look good. Also, not sure about hurculiner, but rhinoliner isn't for the do it yourselfer. It uses special heated spray equiment if I remember correctly. Not cheap either. James

Looks to me like you should re-consider your clutch choice. A properly operating and installed clutch should never have that problem.

I'd be more for a feedback forum, covering good and bad sellers/buyers. Zbyter has done a decent job of starting a list on his website if you haven't already seen it. check out the link below. http://home.comcast.net/%7Ezbyter/SellerRatingGuide.html

well, I'd say if they haven't taken it away by now, they won't. I saw this over a year ago posted on another message board

I'm not sure if everyone noticed or not, but I did invite the seller (james mead) to contact me to resolve this issue that I've been trying to work out for about a year now. I haven't been contacted from him at all. Heck I even tried responding to one of his ads asking about the megasquirt and I didn't get a reply...

I dunno, this one really got to me...because I was building up a motor and as my luck always seems to go, just about every part I got was wrong. venolia messed up my pistons, ferrea sent me the wrong valves, I got sent the wrong piston rings, and then I find out this guy sold me a fake hks gasket that wouldn't even fit on a stock block, let alone one that was bored .30 over...I was just at a loss of words. I would hate for this to happen to someone else as I hes got some items listed at a lot higher prices than the $80 I paid for my head gasket. Mature or not, I can't let another z guy get screwed.

I purchased a headgasket for Jmead (James Mead) about a year ago (through zcar.com classifieds). Here's the details I've tried emailing him and posted on the 70-83 forum and zcar talk forum and no response. I purchased what was supposed to be a hks head gasket (91mm x2mm) to fit my 83 280zxt. I recieved a mulitlayer head gasket that has a maximum bore of less than 86mm (stock size for the l28) and I've posted pictures and people say its not even an hks gasket. I don't have a phone number for him but this guy definetly deserves an f and buyer beware. I did a search on his name and came up with another incident on another message board and someone else said they had similar experiences. I ended up buying an HKS 2mm gasket and it was nothing like the one I have. I got screwed out of $80, don't let the same happen to you. He currently has several ads in the classifeds section of this site heres the link to his ads. http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=zClassifieds&file=other_ads&id=jmead If James is out there reading this, I will retract all my statements if you refund my money... James Roraback

um...how about roll cage padding??? I know it may get torn up a little over time, but it's cheap...and you know, its a good idea to have those bars padded anyways. If theres a pad there, you can use what ever you want, because it shouldn't see near the abuse.

yup, my act pp did that too...I put a new fork in with a different clutch (but heavier pp) and haven't had any problems yet. But when I had the act in there, I blew a clutch hose, then slave cylinder, then master cylinder and finally the fork. With all new parts I'm hoping it'll hold up for awhile...I guess I'll see. Not too many miles on the new heavier clutch yet.

The fastest my 280zxt went on a stock turbo was 13.3 @106.(18-19psi on street tires)) My T3/TO4E hybrid got me to 12.3 @ 112.8 (25psi on slicks) and with any luck I'll have the new T-61 in this weekend and I'm looking for low 11's. As far as the fuel issue...buy, borrow, steal, rent a wideband. Anything else is just a guess.

I'm using a 16" zirgo on mine but its a straight blade design and I'm only running an l28et. But even on the hottest track days and back to back passes, it keeps things in check, and its not on coninuesly, it cycles on and off. I'd imagine with thier higher output fan, you'd be fine. I know I like mine!

just curious...what brings you to the conclusion that's what you have in your car?

Well, I've been doing a lot of search about the Master Power Turbos. Seems like the turbo mustang guys and turbo buick guys are starting to buy the crap out of these and love them. Haven't been any complaints at all about them. Many of them have been running them for quite a while now. At the price of $649 for a T61, I could buy 2 Master Power turbos for the price of one garret turbo. Like I said...do some searching yourself...just because its a newer name doesn't mean it isn't still a quality product. I've talked to a guy running one on his 2.2 dodge and he loves it. I'm still undecided as to what direction I'm going to go. James is getting me prices tomorrow morning and I'll decide then. they';ve got good prices on tial wastegates too...not sure what I think of thier "generic" ones tho. I guess a guy would just have to try them out. Has anyone here, actually run a master power turbo themselves?

cheap turbos wants $12XX.XX for their T61...thats more than I can float for sure! 240z turbo, you've got mail, get with me quick if you can.

Well, after hours of looking at compressor maps, I've decided that a Garrett T61 turbo will put me exactly where I want. The only thing is, I'm not real up on t series turbos and need help choosing the appropriate exhaust side. This is a 70% drag car, 30% street car. It will probably be eventually a 100% drag car. Anyways, i don't weant to rev the crap out of the engine(past 6500) to get power so quick spool up is a concern. I'm running the l28et with the reguired to handle the power. I'm currently running a T3/T40E hybrid that just isn't cutting the mustard at the 25psi that I'm running on it, and wanting to run on the new turbo. So help me out guys. What A/R exhaust should I want to run...68, 70, 84? And what trim exhuast wheel. By the way, check out the webiste I'm looking at...awesome prices on turbos. http://www.turbocalculator.com/sale-garrett.php I'm hoping to purchase on tuesday, so quick responses are appreciated. Thanks.

Well, I read through a bunch of the archives and answered most of my questions. First off, I have an 83 280zxt with a rebuilt l28et punched .30 with venolia forged pistons(7.7:1 comp.), polished rods, arp hardware (rods, mains, and head bolts/studs) it has the usual bolt ons with a T3/T04E turbo, portmatched head and manifolds and so on. I'm currently running 25psi and have approx 350hp to the wheels and its all operating off an sds em4-f. Anyways, heres the questions. I'm running a walbro255hp (high pressure) pump. I'm wondering if my pump will handle running the nitrous along with its regular duties of feeding my 550cc injectors. It will be a single fogger wet kit and I plan on starting with a 75 shot and eventually moving to a 125 when I make sure the 75 is operating properly. I've also been told to pull approx 2 degrees of timing for every 50hp shot. Does this sound correct? I'm currently running 19 degrees at 25psi without any problems so I figure on my nitrous runs I'll bring it down to 14 degrees with the 125 shot. I've also been running 110-116 fuel depending on which speed shop is open when I need it. Am I forgeting anything important? I have both an egt guage and wideband to monitor fuel and so on. Any advice from nitrous users is welcome