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Bob_H

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Everything posted by Bob_H

  1. Sleeving a block - that's not "minor". And if you don't sleeve it, you will be lucky to get that displacement. I'm not trying to discourage you at all - After all I wrote a whole webpage 10 years ago about building a stroker. However, it seems to me as if you are trying to re-invent the wheel, netting a lot more work/cost for the same effect. For those who don't like the "bad rod angle" - I point to Dan Baldwin or John Coffey's, (well, he recently sold it) motors which put out in the neighborhood of 270+ rwhp. Dan's was a pump gas motor and I have driven it on the track. It was very tractable, had loads of torque, and redlined at 7000 rpm. To get much over 7000 rpm in the L6, (which in theory, the poor rod angle doesn't do so well at), requires some significant work on the crank, balancing, etc.. as harmonics in the crank come into play around 7500+ rpm. For all purposes, the short block on Dan's motor was a "budget" build - i.e. KA24 pistons, L24 rods, LD28 crank, basic machine work, etc.. There is no extra machining with a F54 block - it is the same cost/work to bore 1mm over as it is to bore 3mm over. Sleeving a block - which I recognize you said you might not do, requires a lot more work - but is certainly doable. And as for extra "wear" - I tore down my 3.1L motor with 25k hard miles on it and the only wear of any significance was my rod bearings. And that was directly attributed to my running hard and fast on the track,(I instruct), with a stock oil pan. Not a good idea... Bottom line - I really can't see any real justification to going to all the extra work to make the LD block work when you don't gain anything other than the "better rod angle". Dan can spout all day about his "crappy rod angle" and how it has taken him to some of the fastest times on the track,(road course). If you still want to pursue it - more power to you - I'm just trying to prevent lots of extra work and money for what might be minimal if any gain. (thinking cost per power gained). -Bob
  2. Why stick with the LD28 block and do all that work? The F54 or N42 blocks don't start out with an 84mm bore - and you have more room to spare,(i.e. a smaller overbore). You can just prep the block properly and overbore it ~2-3mm instead of sleeving a LD block. It just doesn't make sense. Thats a lot of work for the same effect. -Bob (The Datsun Workshop author - old and outdated, but still relevant).
  3. I don't have that sunshine shot - but here was an older photo from the paint booth. Those of you with eagle eyes can see the surprise.... (Its out of paint jail, but waiting for some fender liner to protect the fiberglass from rocks before I can get it back). -Bob
  4. Bob_H

    unknown

    You can just see the outline....
  5. I agree with PUSHER - It appears that header was clearly designed for an internal wastegate turbo - but it appears from the angles in your pictures that you have installed an externally regulated turbo? Could you show us some pictures from the other side and maybe the bottom? If you do have wastegate setup arranged, I agree with the others, mid 300's should be no problem with good tuning. What is your wastegate setup? -Bob
  6. You know, I put in for a two year subscription last year,(I believe, I'll have to check my records), and I never got any magazines.... I have been so busy with deployments, short cruises, getting married, etc.. that I have forgotten it until this came up. I have every copy of the orginal Z car magazine,(except the CD, which I never recieved and recieved no reason why I didn't get it - I'm still looking for a copy from anyone who has one and wants to sell it). I have just about every copy of SportsZ until I tried to get the subscription..... Now I have no contact at SportsZ in which to track down the error, (who knows, maybe the wrong address was entered?). Bummer. Any ideas? On edit - I have checked into my records and can't find a charge on my VISA or in my bank VISA.....unfortunatly I can't check my older checks since they are currently packed up. I sent an e-mail to Art, but it is entirely possible that I thought I put in the subscription, but never was successful? (I shared with Art that I had some trouble getting the two year subscription to process properly and may not have successfully completed it) Just trying to keep this thread honest so people don't get the wrong idea. -Bob
  7. Thanks guys. First - the color is not a recent Nissan color. I searched through all the color chip books for a long time and found an obscure late 90's Renault color. It was lighter than all the others I looked at. The pics above were in a dark building with lots of dust on the car. The flares are still a version of the older IMSA flares - just by now they have been modified a little. Tim and Roger did a fair amount of work to the fenders to make them even, and give it a little style. But in the end, it is still largely the orginal shape beneath the paint. As for the flare "lip" - they were added at my request and they are on all the wheel openings. The original Purple job had sharp edges and that wasn't going to cut it for me,(pun not intended, but it is funny now that I look at it!). My orginal request was to make it look like a modern production car with the fender lip. They did just that. Sadly, it will be June before anyone sees the sunlight pictures as I am headed out to fly around a small boat again for two months. We are doing some counter-drug operations down in the southern Gulf of Mexico/north of South America. I think this is the first time we have parked a carrier down there for operations in quite a while.
  8. I found some pictures when it was in they body shop with the final finish sanding going on..... Sure, its dusty, but you can see the color and some of the flare work,(note the lip on the edge). When I can finally get some pictures of it cleaned up and in the sunlight, everyone will be in for a surprise in the paint job.... -Bob
  9. Bob_H

    Front widebody shot

    Front shot of the new copper paint job...with the dust you can't see one of the more interesting features. More to come after I get back from an at-sea period.
  10. Bob_H

    Rear quarter shot

    Rear quarter shot with new copper paint job. Car is a little dusty from sanding in the shop..
  11. Bob_H

    Rb26DETT kit

    Once the Z's switched to the later style mount with the later 240z's, the mount stayed the same through all the Z's. You can pull a mount from a '78 280Z and put it on a '73 240Z - as I did just that. -Bob
  12. If you have the round insulator mounts with the bolts that are horizontal, then his mount will not work. If you have the earlier style mount where the bolts are vertical, then his will work. While those mounts is great,(and the welding is fantastic!) it only covers a small swath of years,(through '72). The 73 through the ZX all have the later style mounts. -Bob
  13. Bob_H

    Rb26dett

    PM me if you are interested in a R32 motor. The guy I bought mine from has a lower mileage on for sale. -Bob
  14. Your in Anderson now? My parents and Grandparents live in Anderson. I'm down there quite often, (and will be in about 3-4 weeks to pick up my dog). If you get a chance, swing by A+ Collision and give Tim and Roger max grief for still having my Z, (Cleve's old purple one). They have the door jambs painted, and I think the engine bay. They "say" just a few weeks and it'll be done. I laughed, but those guys are top notch and the have made it worth it. -Bob
  15. It's still down in S.C. I thought it was coming up here soon, but that's not going to happen. With our hurricane relief effort, (flying E-2's in support of Search and Rescue missions), and what we have left up here in Norfolk where I am, I don't see it getting up here anytime soon. They were supposed to trailer it up here when it was done and I guess I'll hold their feet to the fire on that one. Right now I'm out of garage space as I was remodeling my kitchen and cabinets were all over the main garage and the second garage is full of storage items while I finish moving. Too much info if you ask me! Trust me, as soon as its up here or I can get some pics of it down there, they will be posted here. -Bobby
  16. Bob_H

    Rear suspension

    They are some form of motorcycle mufflers. Generic stainless types.
  17. That is not true. With a huge camshaft not designed with spring pressures in mind, yes, that can happen. Also - if your lifters are old and worn out,(or more often, clogged up with old congealed oil), they will exhibit the same even on a stock camshaft. I ran a mild aftermarket camshaft with my P-90a and had no lifter bleed-down up to 7k rpm. Many years ago I outlined my setup on my website, (the Datsun Workshop - its still there). With Sunbelt's new camshaft profiles and their corresponding lower spring pressures, (less than stock), a P-90a and an their aftermaket camshafts would be no problem with good lifters. I have not personally heard of a P-90a having less lift than the other Z heads - but that doesn't mean it isn't true. I doubt it though. Just some minor corrections. -Bob
  18. Bob_H

    Rb26DETT kit

    The issue is that there is no "off the shelf" Nissan pickup which bolts to the RB26 and works with a rear-sump pan in the Z's. All of us have needed to fabricate some form of pickup ourselves. You can search here and see plently of threads about oil pans and what we have done, or in most cases, not done. While you can use the RB20 rear-sump pan, it must be modified to work and you still have to modifiy a pickup. That is a basic recap. If needed, I can give them a call to talk about the issues. -Bob
  19. No updates. My house and rowing have consumed my time. I haven't even disassembled my RB26 to take it to the shop to fabricate a pickup. All in time... -Bob
  20. He got it right. The slicks are on 18's vs the 17' in the pictures. The specs are 17x10 and 17x12 for the "street" rims and 18x11 and 18x12 for the race rims. I used to have the exact backspacing, but needless to say you can find that info here on hybridz,(not by me). The car has coil-overs and they just fit and several here have put similar rims on their car with coil-overs and posted their backspacing. For the Copper color, no it is not the Chevy color,(I belive Sunburst orange). I did look at it, but changed my mind as it looks plain on a cloudy day. The color was an obscure Renault color from the 90's. I went through all the paint colors in their selection and sprayed three on the hood to see what I wanted. This stood out as the clear winner. It has a slight turquoise tint as some green is in the color. I'll post some pictures once the car gets back up here. -Bob
  21. Looks like a pretty red x! I tried to copy the link and no luck their either. But it is good to know he changed the design. -Bob
  22. Perfect is relative. The comment about the rough cut on the fenders and cutting your hand was true. It was a great looking car from 10-15 feet. The up close items were fairly minor.... The car is no longer purple, but Copper. It will be a few weeks before I can post some pics, but besides changing the color, lots of body work was done to include adding a proper lip to the fenders. Turns out it looked like the body work was done very well because with all of Cleve's racing/tracking the fiberglass had not cracked where it was attached. But as they dug into it to sand it down, they had done things like dump bondo anywhere things didn't match up. They figure something like 10+ lbs of bondo was on the car and well concealed. So hours and hours of labor later, it now looks amazing. It really needs to be seen in person. If you are ever down here in Norfolk, VA or in the area, shoot me an e-mail and come see the car. I'll have it back up here in a few weeks as it is down at my parents in South Carolina. And the guys who did it are real stand-up guys as they didn't change their orginal price with all the additional work. When I post the pictures/etc.. I'll post their contact info. If you have to know yesterday who they are, you don't have the time to leave your car for them to do it right. I finally uploaded those pics to my hybridz album. You can see the old turbo-tom setup and the car I mocked up the RB26 into. Here is another shot for our pleasure:
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