Bob_H

Noone has bid on it yet. I think he wants too much, or at a min, is starting too high. Some cosmetic work would do wonders for a running RB26Z.... -Bob

Geoff, Thanks for the response from the front office! Sorry I we couldn't work out the details for a swap for my front oil pan - fortunately I see you found someone else to send one off to Quaife. As I understood the pictures, the front suspension was grafted, where the rear was left stock,(if you will). I was fairly sure the S14 front suspension didn't have that long upper arm similar to the Z32. (but rather had a mcphearson setup). I'm interested in the details of the electronic controller - i.e. what inputs does it use to recognize yaw, etc..? Or is it just an electronic controller to vary torque by punching buttons? My question might not be clear - is it a replacement for the ATTESSA computer, or is it just an electronic control to replace the handbrake? Last - how many people have stepped up to the plate? Do you have a waiting line yet? I understand if you would rather not comment on that publicly - but I would be interested via a PM, (my previously stated interest in the conversion is the reason). Last, with you being in PHX, and say for example, with myself being in TX, are you setup to source clips? Its tough to pay shipping from Japan,(all total, my R33 motor/tranny/etc.. was about $800), and then to turn around and pay a freight company to ship it again to your shop for a few hundred again. A clean shell is easier to an extent. Just checking options. After I get back from my honeymoon I may need to give you a call to discuss further details. Thanks! -Bob

Pete, I've put that info up a few places but not in this thread, here is the best of my recollection: Wheels are CCW classics. I have a set of 17's,(on the car now), and a set of 18's which have black anodized centers. The fronts are 17x10's and the rears are 17x12's. The 18's are 18x11f and 18x12 rear. Backspace - I'm not exactly sure, but if you do a search around hybrid, the max backspace is readily available. I have a full coil-over setup, and they clear with a bit of room to spare. I think that spec is around 4.5". I believe On3go's green car has the max backspace spec you can have, and he has the ccw's if I remember correctly. Mine should be the same spec. Rear "street" tires are 335's and the fronts are 275's. The 18's currently have Goodyear slicks on them - however they are several years old now and aren't that good, (well, better than street tires, but not nearly as good as newer slicks). For those unfamiliar with CCW's, here is their website: http://www.ccwheel.com/files/wheelprofiles.php And the wheels I have: http://www.ccwheel.com/files/wheelprofiles-model.php?id=classic Someday when I have the rims off, I'll measure the backspacing. The 18's are off the car, but my plate is full - we leave on our honeymoon this Thursday! Finally going. Not too bad - only 7 months after our wedding. -Bob

Javier, Thanks for stopping back in! I have a few questions: What is the expected timeline for the S-13 conversion availability? I know Full Race has had tremendous interest, about how many are putting their money where their mouth is and dropping a deposit? I saw the turn-around time on the site, are you setting a limit on how many you will accept if you have a long line of actual deposits or is that still hypothetical? I have a serious interest in the setup as you can tell from my current project: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115751 The second page starts to show the engine setup, etc..,(RB26). And last, what are the compromises expected with the S-13 setup? Well, not quite last, I saw FR is developing an electronic control for the AWD, vs the current mechanical setup, (parking brake type lever - if I understand the current setup correctly). Thanks again for stopping in - I'm serious enough to consider dropping a deposit after mine gets running in a month or two. -Bob

Not running yet. That won't be until likely Feb - and late at that. Honeymoon this thursday, misc. items early Jan, you get the picture. Still some fabricating left. It will be updated here! -Bob

Is it just me or do most of the "documents" seem to stop short of the actual finished product? for example, the sump pickup? It shows what he wants to do, but not what he did? Am I missing something? -Bob

From earlier: Ken, Here is a recent side shot when I had to move it out of the garage and back in tonight. For the core dimensions... I'll have to fish those up. Maybe next week. It is a fairly big core, I think 24 inch x 11 x 2.75. I'm guessing a bit though. -Bob

It is a PWR core with custom end tanks. Their selection can be seen here: http://www.pwr-performance.com/intercooler.htm I can't find it on the site, but one of the reasons I chose them was the different design of the tubes themselves - it is thicker on the leading edges,(better dent/ding protection), and thinner in the middle for better heat transfer. I have a limited airflow to deal with, so a bar and plate were not a strong consideration as they would have restricted airflow even more. I was originally looking at a delta fin setup similar to the no longer available Apex'i intercooler cores. There are some Chinese knock-off's that I wasn't really enamored with. I almost found these by luck. They gave me about 30% off the list price of the core size I was looking at,(I had originally inquired about one of their sale item intercoolers). They are an Australian company which is now expanding to the US. PWR apparently outfits several OEM's in Australia - or so they say. Long answer to a short question. -Bob

So I was trying to find a copy of the modified mag article - of course January's issue is on the stands now... Can anyone scan a copy in so I can read it? I see their pricing is on the website and they are taking orders come Jan 1st. $12,800 for a rolling chassis with steel driveshaft, steel parts. I'm guessing that with a full clip at ~$4500-6000, you are looking at high $20's for a turn-key car. I am replacing my Miata for my daily driver with an S2000, and I was seriously considering this car... however, I think I need to get mine working and running first,(my RB26). I want to see these cars on the track - I may seriously consider one in a year or so, esp. if they can make it work in the lighter S13 chassis w/o any real compromises. -Bob

You may have seen it already - but check out my webpage in my signature. Granted I wrote it nearly 10 years ago, but fundamentally, most of the info is good and still accurate. Someday, (after I get my RB26 up and running and build another stroker), I'll update the webpage. For example, I say the F54 is the best block - and for many reasons it is, but the N47 block is just as good - and for both you need to check your wall thickness. It walks through many of the basics if you haven't read them already. The cylinder head choices are well covered in posts here at hybridz and have been discussed ad-naseum, (great info in those threads). -Bob

Alright, finally back online consistently again. Some shots from my "trip". First, Walker Morgan of Morgan Performance Fabrication did all the work and I'll say it again - he went out of his way and was a complete professional. I can't recommend him enough. The work was top notch and I need to thank his wife for the late nights he spent to accomodate my very short schedule. You can ask for better customer service than that. Ok, just a few shots. I'm still working on the intakes. Yes, I'm keeping the MAF's. Save your comments on how ditching them would be easier - I want them and will keep them for now. I can always remove them later. I now have the K&N filters,(from a snowmobile!) and the front brace bracket for the lower intake tube. Those pictures will be later. Enjoy. -Bob

Your stated goal is a daily driver, with occasional track usage, and the motors you are talking about in NA form put out less than 200 hp. Why spend that much on a full blown swap to get less power for much more money than you can achieve with the stock L6? There are tons of documented 2.8 and 3.0/3.1L motors putting out near or greatly more than 200 hp to the wheels and they weigh less than a RB swap. It just doesn't make sense. I say go with a solid known and build a solid NA L6. Increased weight in a RB tranny and RB motor isn't worth the minimal gain in power over a STOCK 2.8L motor. -Bob

Late last night I dropped the car off at Morgan Performance Fabrication in Birmingham, AL for some intercooler/intake fabrication. If your nearby, please give Walker a call and swing by the shop. I'll be picking it up next Wednesday. He'll be in the shop Monday and Tuesday working on it - I'm sure he'd welcome the viewing. I had to lift his jaw off the floor when we rolled it in the shop - its worth the trip. Here is his website: http://mpfab.com/ Was recommended to him through James T. Anyways - this trip cross country is killing me - I'm ready to be in Texas. And James - sorry about not stopping by in Anderson - I rolled past Anderson at about 8pm at night on my way down to Alabama. Walker met me about 10pm at night - talk about a stand up guy. No pictures until next Wed... -Bob

I don't have any straight side shots. The next closest besides what is in the first post are these two from the front,(the rear is in the first post): If you want a particular shot, I'll see what I can do, but with my trip starting tomorrow, it may be a month or longer before you can see it. -Bob

I don't think it was negative - we just see it all the time, esp. when people are selling items - someone comes in talking about how their asking price is sky-high, usually pointing out a better deal. Having sold enough items online, it still bothers me from time to time. Fortunately for all of us, you don't have to pay what myself and others used to pay for a RB26 motor and tranny. However they are still one of the most expensive motors out there, (among Nissan's). That's good that they will swap out the tranny - and a good price with that in mind assuming you can know the actual mileage and condition of the motor. I'd splurge the extra for the R33 motors - they are "newer" and have a few updates worth keeping, (mainly the better designed crankshaft snout). But with his aftermarket parts, its not too bad. The only unknown, (which he hasn't answered), lies with the year, i.e. R32 or R33. If it is a R33 motor, that is a great deal. If it is a R32 motor, he's got it priced about right in my opinion. -Bob

So I've been up all night trying to get the motor assembled so I can put it on the trailer late tonight or early tomorrow. For the first time in three years, my motor has all its "parts" attached. I pulled the front turbo off when I first got the motor and just now put it back on. Speaking of lines and such - holy cow! there was some serious gunk in the oil lines. I was just using some carb cleaner to blow them out, and blow them out I did. I think after the motor had warmed up for the first time, it would have slowly disolved these blockages - however that assumes I wasn't going to head out and run it hard. I'm just glad they are clean. I'll download the pictures later today. For now, off to finish other "to-do" items. -Bob

For a custom built autocross car, weight is your enemy. The RB26dett is about 200-250 lbs more than the stock L6,(in comparison to the L6 in the Z). If you are talking about a 300zx, you are better off sticking with your z31 or working the turbo route. Significantly cheaper by far in the long run. However, if your serious about autocross - get a different car. Seriously, I'm not joking, You are far better working on suspension and driver than swapping motors - it will net a much bigger time improvement vs trying to find 500 hp. The real question, is when will you actually take it to a track! Quit monkeying around with parking lot 60 second runs and take your car out for 20-25 min at a time! -Bob

We can nickel and dime his parts - however what you used as a reference is a R32,(they claim /33, but I seriously doubt it - maybe 1 in 10) motor, and for that price, likely a high mileage motor. But the important part of your your reference shows it as a "5 speed AWD tranny", not a 5 speed RWD tranny - another factor in cost - so its actually equal in that respect as the AWD tranny isn't really worth much of anything other than a nice boat anchor. $4500 seems reasonable. I'm sure if someone offers him close to that, they will get a decent deal. Speaking of which - Cyrus, I'm interested in the stock exhaust manifolds - but I'm not really interested in purchasing them. If you sell the motor and they don't want them, I'll gladly pay shipping. I'm interesed in hacking up a set for porting, etc.. w/o having to put mine out of commision. -Bob

Chuck, Thanks! That's what I thought. For the 1/4 windows- the outer strip is U shaped and I didn't take a picture of that. But the ones with the section trimmed - the verdict is still out.... And I didn't get any stripping which goes on the 280z window frames - if I remember correctly what they look like,(thin rubber strips) -Bob

Look towards the front - it is leaning up against the front grill, on the right side. Its black and blends in. -Bob

John, Yea, I got married in June - its been great. The kicker is she loves the track events as well! She keeps talking about "her" track car - my former Showroom stock miata,(now a daily driver). Life is good. -Bob

Anyone have a shot of a car with this kit on it? I'm not seeing what it looks like from just the individual pieces. -Bob

So the camera is back and I shot the remaining ones. The more I look at them, the more I think that the one with the round top is the top of the rear hatch and the two narrow ones,(not shown in these two shots but is just to the top and right of the round topped seal in the first post), are the left and right side. It is this other foam one I don't know. As you can see in the second shot - it has a section trimmed on one side. I have two of these.

Well, some work on the engine tonight. Lots of grease, carb cleaner, and lint free rags. Pistons are now soaking overnight to get the last of the gummy crap off. #6 piston was esp. bad with cacked on crap - no surprise considering how the coolant flows, etc.. Should have the engine back together tomorrow evening - to be in the car on Monday. That's the plan anyways....you know how those go. Took a shot of the the bearings. The Rod bearings are on the top,(with the top bearing to the top of the photo), and the main bearings on the bottom. Right side = front of motor. What I don't have a shot of is the back side of the thrust bearing. It shows how even on a 12k mile motor, the thrust bearing will get worn out when you have to start the car with the clutch in,(was showing copper). Also included is a shot of the new dipstick hole. Had to make sure it would work with the new oil pan - it does. Did my best to set the level to where it should be. It's all a guess anyways. Any ideas for plugging the old hole? That's it for tonight.

Well, What I know I have: Door welting and weatherstripping,(the one piece set), rear 1/4 window inner rubber and outer frame foam for each side, rear hatch window rubber, front window rubber, rear hatch inner foam seal,(the main opening), cowl-hood seal , bottom of door seals, and that's all I'm sure of. The rest are in the picture above. I'm sure the one with the rounded part is for the outer hatch seal,(above the inner foam one), but it isn't long enough to stretch the entire distance - so I'm assuming there is two or three parts? Maybe the one I have is a left and a right which needs to be cut - however it isn't that long...(I checked). My wife took the camera tonight so I can't take any photos tonight. Most of tonight will be spent re-assembling the RB26, not on weatherstripping... It appears that I have a seal which goes under the fender maybe? I forget which one that was - but I thought it was rubber,(I don't have a rubber one like that). I also have some smaller ones of which I have identified all but one. Maybe in time I'll figure this one out... -Bob