Bob_H

Thanks for the reply- I'm familiar with the trans mount differences and that part is intact and I guess I wasn't clear in my description. The part I'm interested in is the area above- from just behind the fuse box mount to just behind the shifter hole. I'll see if I can put a picture of the cut out area. Bottom line, this car had a side mount shifter,(think old chevy/ford transmissions with the levers/ linkages on the side)- that area was cut and new metal fab'd in. I cut the new stuff out and now want it back stock so I can put the console/etc back on. Key is, a 240z console, not a 260 or 280z console which is wider up front.

I tried to search, no luck. I have a 72 240z with some portion of the trans tunnel cut away. I found a 74 260z in the pick and pull - does anyone know if the transmission tunnels are the same? I just need to cut a big section out so I can graft it into mine. The 260 will be going to the crusher - so all the better to get it now! I know the center console is different, but the rest looks almost identical to me? Thanks! Bobby

Cary, thanks- that does. If your friend is able to get it for that- I'd say that is an incredible deal and good for him if he can get it running and out in the public say in a vintage racer! Alan, I understand- although I started this thread and don't mind- but opening another Pandora's box is not always a good idea! Bobby

So I'm interested in more details on that! All I know is Oppama is I believe the R&D facility for Nissan? What did they mod - any pics on the net,(as I couldn't find any)? You can't drop that info with out more info! And Cary - what is his "hoped for" price he might pay for a FIA head? Just curious of current market value since they are so few and far between.

Was looking at trailers and saw this for sale - apparently an older conversion, but in nice shape and well done best I can tell: http://www.racingjunk.com/Nissan/182178297/1973-Nissan-240Z.html

So for years, I have heard how rare the FIA heads are - yet here appears one in the US on a vintage track car best I can see. I'm looking for more info on this car in particular and mods he's done to the engine in particular beyond just a FIA head. I can see a dry sump system/pump, custom crank pulley with a pickup next to it but a Mallory Unilite distributor. Here is where I found the info: http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=29&Itemid=38 To steal some of the pics direct links from Wolk Creek Racing,(these all belong to that website): Go to the link above for all the pics. Some pretty trick parts up front. I'm looking for more info on this setup as well as any other specifics to this race car. As I understand, it is owned by Marty Handshy. All of the other FIA heads I have seen are overseas - this was the first I saw in the US. I'm sure there are more, but it was neat to see nonetheless. A closeup of the alternator/belts,(dry sump oil pump below the alternator): Some nice custom engineering/work on the engine bay. Also, nice shot showing the external water jacket:

I'm sure the halo will look great. The projectors are from fog lights though if I am looking at them correctly. My first concern is light distribution, or rather - lack of proper distribution. There is nothing to cut off the light up high for a proper cut-off like an older sealed beam or the newer proper projection lights such as shown here: And this shows how those projector lenses work to cut off the top of the light: And here are some threads discussing some pros and cons of different options. Many people get a "projector" headlight, but it was designed for a halogen bulb, not a HID bulb. So know what you are using. In this thread, starting at post 58, is a good discussion of why not to use a halogen bulb projector with a HID light: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?514509-DIY-Cutoff-shield-modding-on-DEPO-or-ZKW-headlights/page3 And here is a good primer on the various lighting options. Obviously tailored to BMW lights, but you can still get good info: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=217994

Joe- I brought that motor up in 2002 or 2003 I think? Going on 12 years....2003 was also the last time this car ran under its own power.... The motor in this Z was destined for my 240 which that L6 I sold to Jimmy came out of. Never did make that happen. I still have that Z as it was the first car I ever bought. I now have Dan Baldwin's old NA L6 in it, just not hooked up. 250-260 some odd rwhp I believe vs the ~180 in the motor I sold him. How times have changed. As to this car, I never intended to keep her- this was always a "project completion and then sell" plan. Granted it has expanded greatly from my initial plans, but you can always build another right? Bobby

I am in for a second run when it happens. Two piece center for the rotor. -Bobby

Well, this topic was started in Oct, 2006 just after I got the car back from the paint shop. This car has moved with me to S. Texas, up to Arkansas, back to S. Texas and now to North Carolina. I FINALLY got it off the trailer and into the garage today. Washed the car before I pulled it in to get all the massive coat of pollen, dust/junk that have collected while this sat outside for the past nearly year on the trailer! To show just how good the guys did on the paint job - here is a shot which I took to show the ghost flames, but it shows the quality of the paint, despite being outside in texas, arkansas and now here for about 2-3 some years of the past 8. I'm just happy to finally have it in a garage, have NO other projects on the horizon, and have the ORDER from my wife to "GET IT DONE!" Why? Mainly because when it is done, it will be sold so for the first time in over 15 years I will be down to only 1 project - my original 240z which I still have an have great plans with a NA L6 I already have. For me, it is the one project - for her, the $$$ to pay student loans and something on the house. Sometimes i just sit in the garage and stare at her: I can't wait to finally drive it for the first time since 2003.... I have some work obligations that start in the fall, so my timeline is fairly clear - get it done this summer. I'll take it to the track once or twice since owning it this long and not taking it to the track would be a shame and a disgrace. Besides, VIR is only about 60 miles from my house... So this is my official "bump" to get this back to the top and have you guys keep me honest moving it forward. So what is left? Engine will come back out for some prep work: -Engine wiring harness from Wiring Solutions to mate to a custom harness in the car. -Fuel pump in the back mated to the already run lines. -Re-wire the entire car with the custom kit I already have -Re-do the front intake for the turbos -the big part - weld in a new trans tunnel where a big hole is from the older side shifter transmission that was in the car when I bought it. I'll need to source a good transmission tunnel from a trashed car so I won't feel bad about cutting a portion out for my car. -Re-install the dash and instruments. -Figure out the heating controls. I have a stock panel, but am considering a few options that are different. -Finish out the interior to include carpet, vinyl, seats, etc.. -Multiple little things, but those are the bigger items. I'll keep photos coming as progress moves along. Any leads on a transmission tunnel from a rusted out or trashed car which is not salvageable,(such as wrecked) is much appreciated! Here is a photo of the "hole" I have to fix:

Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Rearview-Mirror-GPS-Parking-Kit-Speed-Radar-Detection-Bluetooth-DVR-Camera-/170950825938?pt=US_Radar_Laser_Detectors&hash=item27cd7697d2 Or: http://www.cars-electronics.com/gps-rear-view-mirror-navigation-with-dvr-radar-detector-wireless-camera-parking-sensors-bluetooth-fm_p1518.html

I was cruising other videos and found this exact car on a chassis dyno back in Sept 2011 - it put 300.7 PS to the rear wheels. The video is here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3yZhsU_ru-8 And it is the last one - just before the 14:00 min mark and the dyno plot is at 14:45. The Green Watanabe Z at about the 6:00 mark is supposedly one of the fastest in Japan, if not the fastest - 370(!) PS at the wheels... Here is one of its runs: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SzCJzeYiz18 I can't read the time clearly - either a 10.82 or a 10.32? Fast either way... And the sound! It was nice to see actual chassis dyno shots. You often hear, but this backs up some of the claims and shows what numbers are needed to run 10 sec 1/4 mi runs with a L6 and a Z. BTW, I ran that video through google translate to get the dates/description. I have what would be an "non-optimized" Sunbelt head and carb combo and it put over 250 to the wheels with a failing points system. I never re-tested it after Dan did when I bought his car as it had a ZX distributor at that time and pulled cleanly to 7k. I expect it was closer to 270 at the wheels. I'll re-test it when it is running in my car, but that will be several years as I have a small child and at least 1-2 projects in front of that one. Bobby

I don't know what the inlet size of the TWM intake cover is - but it may be possible that is a choke point? An easy way to tell is to do a full throttle run,(data logged w/ wideband), then do another w/it removed. No difference - likely not the culprit or contributing factor.

Worst case - it doesn't work for you, buy a used replacement front cover and put a stock pump back on. I promise you will find a buyer for the old setup here. I agree - unless you are on the track,(road course), you shouldn't see any issues with the stock pump despite your power. That being said, on my motor,(260 rwhp), on a full throttle run from 3rd through 5th, at the top of 4th shifting into 5th, the temp just starts to rise on the gauge,(still the stock 240z gauge), and I would say it rises about 10-15 deg,(rough WAG), imm. comes back to normal in about 30 seconds after letting off. So unless you are on the track, you should be fine.

Well, just checked and it said one in stock- just ordered. Will report if not the correct one. Bobby

This is from a much earlier part of the thread - but it stood out to me - the fiberglass hood tilted up 1" at the rear - my understanding has always been the high pressure at the base of the windshield will push air INTO the engine bay, not help evacuate hot air OUT. How was it working for you? You obviously found the issue to be the head - but I was wondering about this particular comment. You and I have a very similar power engine. Mine is now sitting for about 2 years before it will see the track again - and I intend to do the head mods,(I can tap into it unlike you, not historically valuable other than it was a Sunbelt modified head). This has been a thread I have watched closely and I appreciate your sharing the troubleshooting and eventual,(hopeful), solution. Bobby

I also agree, well put.

LD28 water pump, or stock gas one? I ask b/c the LD pumps are neigh on impossible to find now. Bobby

Guys have been getting that kind of power for a bit. Here is a thread with some links to at least one: http://www.fullboost.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=5109 Not very many- but they do exist. I agree though- more updates when the RB26 head gets back on track! Bobby

Something to consider- in the FD RX7's, they have a big problem with the diffs overheating ESP with a swapped 8.8 diff. tests have been run when running the ford 8.8 diff,(what I had in mine). Tests of temps in both the FD and the Ford Cobra showed the exhaust really put some heat in the diff. Wrapping the exhaust pipes near the diff kept the temps from continually rising ESP in the cobras the had two pipes under the diff like you have. Their assessment was the exhaust pipes were the source of much of the heat. In mine, it stopped the "puking" out the top vent. Food for thought. Bobby

Danny - I'm at work, but shoot me a PM. I had one special made for my RB26 and ended up using the radiator that came in with the car when I bought it,(a GT2 race/street car). I still have that ron davis -with two fans, shroud/etc.. designed to work behind a big intercooler. I would likely prefer to sell it rather than figure out what to do with it. I think I paid near $900+ for it - never used. Will let it go for a little more than half that - $500 shipped. I sized the opening specifically for the Z radiator opening, maximizing the space. If you are interested,(or anyone else for that matter), I'll take some pics and send them your way. -Bobby

That will definitely help - here is a thread on norotors.com about a diff mounting ears braking. Speedfab owns a shop down in FL and his posts are worth noting. Specifically, posts #8 #16 and #27 has a good picture of a FC,(late 80's RX7) mount for a 8.8 diff constrained from the top. http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=4344.msg59089#msg59089 When you shorten the diff nose - as the Q45, an 8.8 from a Ford IRS, etc.. - the force required to counter the rotational motion goes up compared to a long nose R200 - leverage plain and simple. Your solution might work for a while - but that is a lot of force being put thorough those chromoly arms and you will likely see the washer on the top of the bushing start to bow up,(reverse mushroom), after some strong track sessions - that is what I was seeing and my washer was at least as thick as the one you have - maybe thicker. That will also ultimately effect your alignment under accel, more so in lower gears with the higher torque multiplication. Edit - I was thinking of someone else who took a video of their suspension on track - it was not you. So sorry! However, it is very revealing how much it does move if you can get even a lipstick cam down there for just some turns in a parking lot./edit. You took some good videos of your suspension - after a track weekend - point a camera at the front of the diff and see how much it is moving up and down in 1st gear with light and heavy accel - you will be surprised I'd bet. Good luck this weekend!

I just realized something big when looking at your pics- I never realized Arizona Z mounted the front of the diff from the bottom only. There lies your issue. The diff wants to rotate up with power application- and it should be constrained from above, or more properly, try to rotate into a fixed upper surface. We had lots of issues with this in 8.8 swaps into the 93-95 RX7 chassis,( I was putting out 515 rwhp). You need the bushings on top mounted though a fixed upper bar/plate/whatever that transmits power into the unibody vice the suspension arms. Wow, I consider that a big design deficiency. First, it doesn't have anything to keep the inner lower helm joints from rotating with high lateral G beyond pure friction/clamping force and the diff mounting point exerts considerable force in the mid point of a long bar. Your solution helps- but if you keep the diff- change the mounting to the top vice the bottom and bolt/weld it to the unibody/frame. If that is not clear- let me know. Bobby

Brilliant! I love it!

Bringing this back up for a more recent reference.