Bob_H

Its ryan, not rick. Rick did the conversion,(see recent threads with his pictures, bought buy a guy in CA). Ryan is looking to do it. And Mike, there was no jack boots, nor jumping all over anyone. It was civil the entire time. Re-read it please, and PM me if there is still an issue,(with specifics). I don't get annoyed at answering the same questions, I just think it shows laziness if they aren't willing to search. Ryan was willing to search, and found what he wanted. This is not Zcar.com, and I should hope it stays that way. There is way too much great information in the posts already and I feel people should feel like they need to search first, then ask - rather than ask expecting the answer every time. I stand my ground there, and that really won't change. You guys can Bob bash all you want, (has happend before-see L6 head threads), but in the end, most tend to agree. If it takes Bob bashing to get the message out, then bash away. Lets not clutter up this thread with more "Hey Bob, stop pissing in everyones cereal" PM or e-mail me please if it is that much of an issue for you. -Bob

Rick, I understand your frustration, but my goal is just the opposite,(or maybe just different). I want people to be as informed as they can about the swap, even to the point of driving people away. (edit-driving them away from the swap.._) It is nowhere near a cheap or easy swap, as you are well aware. However, people need to know they likely will have to do extensive fabrication, extensive wiring or ECU work,(aftermarket or stock), and completely re-do the fuel system. And all said, the budget will likely be AT LEAST 12-15k, very possibly more. I'm sure there will be someone to jump in and say, "No way, you can do the entire swap for 6-7k". Live in your dream world buddy, only if you get the motor for free, and skimp on basics such as brakes, tires, safety, etc.. While I would love to see lots of RB26 conversions on the road, I would rather see less complete conversions and less abandoned projects with disillusioned enthusiasts, than more of both,(with the majority being in the abandoned project side). Just my several dollars. And as more of us complete the swap, the eaiser it will be for those following us as we worked through the hard stuff, and eventually, someone will find the "easy", or less complicated way. I expect one of us will crack how to use the stock ECU here fairly soon. At least three of us are trying to make it work on its own rather than go to a standalone. -Bob on edit- ryan, never answered your question on the mounts. Once you get serious about the swap, i.e. are buying a motor, talk to me or Brad or Rick about engine mounts. Rick has fancy billet ones from what I understand. Brad's, (what I have), are a little more simple, and likely cheaper, but work well. Brad worked hard to set the motor back and down as far as you could. In my current mock-up, I would say he accomplished that. Hard to say if Ricks setup or Brad's puts it in a better location. Either is better than the RB20 mounts from the 200ZR,(the Z31 300zx with the RB motor, the mounts Stony is using).

My e-mail works great, I was just lazy. I knew you have been working on it, and knew you watched the boards. Good to hear. Found a guy to do the serious welding on my car,(works in the shipyard here). He'll be looking at the car tomorrow and talking about what we need to do to adapt everything. Fun stuff! -Bobby

And welcome to the board Rick... again. It was not nasty, nor was it meant to be. If I tell you to do a search, I mean just that, nothing more. I've been around all the Z boards since their inception,(zcia.com-now zcar.com, zcar.com when it was performance only among others), and everyone,(well, nearly everyone), comes to the forums and asks questions w/o so much as a few min of research. I have among the least amount of tolerance for laziness, which is exactly what it is. If you have time to burn, check out corner-carvers.com. Their tolerence is much lower than mine, but I subscribe to that philosophy. BTW, don't post there w/o at least a few months of lurking.... There is tons of great advice that has been given out on hybridz.org in the alternate 6 cylinder forum, now the RB forum. If we re-hash it every time someone wants to do it, you will start to send mixed signals and dilute the good information already there. It is a good idea to re-visit issues if they have been dead a long time, however, this has been convered fairly recently. Not only that, but he found what he was looking for. We have all been over this several times, and I am supported reasonably well,(about doing a search). There was absolutely nothing nasty about it. I am not touchy feely, nor have I ever been, and if someones ego is that fragile, well, they shouldn't be on the internet. I'll let this drop, as I thought it was already put to bed. If Ryan has other questions, which he most certainly will if he starts with this, I'm sure we will all work together to get a good answer for him if it is not in the archives/past posts. Actually, Ryan, if you go ahead and purchase the motor, those of us doing the conversion have a mailing list where we bounce ideas off each other as we run into problems. The only requirement is you must actually own the motor,(the RB26) as we don't want a bunch of questions that are already answered here. -Bob (resident smart ass)

No, just great minds think alike. I just know from track driving that the rear bias of cars such as the Porsche 911 allow much better braking and very late trail braking, which I like to do. My old BMW M Coupe was 50-50, and given the choice, I would have dumped about 3-5% to the rear if I could. Just something I have come up with over my time at the track. -Bob

Stony, That is great news as the stock 240z is pretty close to 50-50. If I had my way, I would have 45 front, 55 rear. With Brad's setup, i.e. further back, hopefully my setup will end up with a closer to 50-50 distribution. I also hope that I end up a little less in weight than you,(some interior stuff will be gone in my car). However, your weights show that the RB is indeed about 200 lbs more than a similar 2.8L setup. I forgot, do you still have the heavy later style bumpers, or the earlier lighter ones? What abou the bumper shocks, still there or not? -Bob PS-Brad, if you are reading, any status change on my oil pan?

Take it how you want. You want to know where the information is? Right here in this forum has many of the answers you are looking for. The web has answers if you are looking to put the RB26 in a 240sx, not a 240z. I know you are new,(i saw the 2 posts), and that is why I told you to do a search. You can take it personal if you want, but that is not how it was intended. Far too many people come into forums,(not just here), and want the easy, cliff note answer before they are even willing to do a search. I am less tolerant than most, but I have been in Z car forums since most of them were started, and you get where you see the same questions over and over again, when some times the answer is even still on the front page of the forum... Again, nothing personal, I give that response to everyone who comes into the RB forum asking how to put the RB into their 240z. And I have a set of motor mounts that Brad D makes that bolt up to the RB26 and the stock 240z mounts. I will be selling mine soon as I will have to fabricate some new ones for my new setup,(different suspension). Brad D also will sell you a new set,(you will get a cheaper price on mine since they are used). When you do the search, read about the cost involved. You may be surpised to find it is far more than the 4-6k for the motor and tranny. -Bob

Do....A....Search.... (edit to remove spaces) It is more than answered several times over. And mulitiple times. And I don't know what wiring motor mounts are. I assume you mean wiring and motor mounts. Again, covered several times. (edit)I amtoo tired to give the answer again after we have answered it several times already. If you have a question about something that is not covered, by all means ask. More than likely, we have covered every possible question you could initially have about the swap. -Bob RB26 conversion in progress... (edit for niceness)

Stony, What did you have before this setup? It is still up in the air for me as well... -Bob

The ratio's are 4.11 in the R32 and R33, while the R34 had a 3.9 ratio.... I'm not 100% positive, but about 98% on those. -Bob

John, I would most certainly be interested, but I think TimZ put it best. It really needs some kind of EFFECTIVE airdam/splitter. One of the big known advantages of the G-nose is the improved aerodynamics. But to couple it with any form of air-dam is one off in its current form. The quality of the other kit has been covered and I know that won't be an issue with anything you offer. I can't link to the pictures posted, so I don't know what that looks like. I have yet to see a G-nose setup with a good looking airdam. But I haven't seen many with an airdam either. In the $5-700 range for a full front end would be perfect. Again, I am very much a potential customer if you can get a good looking product. -Bob

Nope, didn't get the e-mail. Good to hear it is down to the trap doors. Now that I am just about to convince the Navy to slow my training down, I might finish out the car.... -Bob

Stony, most of us nuts know about your swap. However you are about as mobile as I am right now, i.e. not. The proof will be when you start cranking it down the 1/4 mi soon. James, I for one would love to see the full AWD setup with the ATTESSA working properly in a 240z. I would likely follow your lead and install it in my car after you figure it out..... But I think it would be lighter and better for you to put a manual setup in. -Bob edit-speeling..

Mr. Brad, nice to see the car is looking good. My oil pan? -Bob

Don't forget one very important difference between what you would hope to accomplish and what I am building my car for. Yours is nearly all drag racing, where mine is 100% road race. Therefore setting the AWD torque transfer to one setting accomplishes little for me other than making my car a 4WD car and I lose the benefits of the AWD. Therefore, I would have to find a way to make the ATTESSA work for it to be viable for me. But a simple manual pump system,(such as the HKS) would work very well for you in a drag race setting. I understand you weren't talking about me and am not one to say it can't be done. However, it was clear you hadn't looked at what was required so I shared. Anything can be done with enough stubborness and money/time. And here is some more food for thought, the yaw sensors and accelerometers are calibrated for their particular location in the GT-R, and if not placed in the same location in relation to the CG/center of moment,(or whatever the correct term is...) their input to the stock computer would be inaccurate. I have intentionally kept some of the details of my suspension work secret waiting for the articles to come out. As such, my approach is very different from anything you will ultimately set out to do. I have yet been able to find someone who can tell me to what extent the ATTESSA computer uses the other computers in the car to make it work. I don't even know if it uses the stock ECU. All of this was moot when I found it added even more weight to my transplant as the motor and tranny alone is 200 lbs more than the stock L6 and I am trying to minimize the extra weight. But I did just wander out to my garage and take a close look at the motor and the old oil pan/diff. You are correct, the diff outputs are about the 3-4 cylinder range. You can put the motor in that location,(where the outputs would line up with the existing wheels) but it will shift the motor closer to the radiator support,(but not quite in the radiator space). The gearshift fits nearly perfect with the motor all the way back near the firewall. It would still fit with it forward 2 cylinders, but would put a fair amount of weight over the front wheels. And with the RB26 in my 260z, the shock towers are centered about the #2 cyl. If you start moving the front diff in the oil pan, now you are getting into some pretty major fabrication, as you can't use the GT-R front subframe, etc.. It can be done, but you might be approaching a $20k+ swap just for the driveline front and rear. You want 9's, and with good power,(easy in the RB26), swap a rear suspension that can handle it, you got it. I think it would be much easier to swap just the rear suspension from another car so it can handle the hard launches and power. It has been done with a Supra rear end, of course a corvette rear setup, and after looking, the 300zx setup would swap fairly easy. In the end, it would still be an engineering challenge, but you might actually drive the car before 2010.... I won't tell what I am swaping in yet, but it is none of those. -Bobby

Yes and no. The clutches that send power to the front diff are "actuated" by fluid pressure. The cliff notes answer for what is required to keep the ATTESSA system is thus: There are several accelerometers throughout the GT-R. They feed into and take inputs from a few of the computers throughout the car. They then feed signals to the ATTESSA pump and valves which control how much torque is transmitted to the front driveshaft. In otherwords, you need to transplant all the accelerometers, computers and pumps to make it work. It adds more weight, and most certainly more complexity. Take a close look at the AWD transplants, all the ones I have seen have the HKS or other similar manual adjustment for the clutches. I.E. they manually set the amount of torque transmitted and it doesn't change till they re-set it. It is usually a handle attached to a pump that manually changes the hydraulic preload on the clutches. There is no need to move the front diff, as it is already toward the front of the motor and in the correct place in relation to the Z engine bay. Before you even think of the AWD transfer, look very closely into how you will get the AWD to actually work. The fabrication/grafting isn't all that hard. You said: " with some electronics" Granted that was in relation to turning off the FWD portion, but the ATTESSA system most certainly has "some electronics" and don't forget that all the manual's and diagrams are in Japanese. Yes, there is a firm in Australia that will sell you a factory manual that is translated to english. However, noone has been able to tell me if the electronic diagrams are translated as well..... -Bob

I assume you did follow my posts when I looked into transplanting the AWD setup into my car with the RB26.... If you are going for the strictly drag race setup, you can go with the HKS manaual adjustment for the AWD clutches. If you are trying any more than that, good luck to you as it is a very complicated system,(and heavy...). -Bob

Alright James, I've been meaning to ask since you started this "second" itteration of the twin turbo. You obviously had a powerful setup previously What did you find lacking in the other seup? What I see is a slightly changed setup, i.e. the new intake, the different exhaust manifolds, and what I am sure is different turbo's. Were there any accompaning changes to the head or block at the same time? I assume you are still running some version of the auto you had, with I also assume a new torque converter... Just curious. It sure looks great, and I'm sure is an excercise in engineering, but to what hoped gain? -Bob

Welcome. First, please do a search of this forum. Everything you asked is answered more than once in this forum. And second, the 6 speed cannot be used in a RWD setup,(you must use the 5 speed from the RB25 motor). For a basic recap, You need to either modify the 200zr pan,(was a Z31 300zx with a RB20 motor-very rare), or fabricate one of your own,(which several of us are doing). Next, you can use either the 200zr motor mounts, or you can buy a set from Brad Davies,(they fit well and sit the motor down and back further than the 200zr mounts). No mods are needed to the suspension to make it fit, but you might want to seriously consider a brake upgrade and stronger front springs,(the RB26 does weigh almost 200 lbs more than the L6). You must custom fab a tranny mount and might be able to make the front part of the stock RB26 driveshaft work. Now that I gave you the cliff notes answer,(which I say again, is all in this forum already, do a search), now the big question. Do you honestly have any idea how much this really costs? Do you have more than $10k for this conversion? Don't forget it is much more than just the RB26 motor. You have the radiator, the intercooler, the fuel system, the custom fab'ed stuff, etc.. It most certainly does add up as I already know. I think you will find it is far more complicated and expensive than you are willing to commit to... -Bob RB26 moron

Steel hood with fiberglass cowl.

Oh BTW, the hood will likely be for sale at a later date. I have no idea how much. If you offer me a bunch, its yours!

Check your e-mail brad for the shots. Tranny shots will come later. I think only the connector is red. Lemme run outside and look. Yup, the upper portion of the connector is red, the lower portion of the connector is grey. The top of the injector itself is yellow. -Bob

Here are finally some shots up on the web of my RB26 swap. The link only shows a few of the shots, but just some general ones for you to look at. I'll have to watch closely how much Geocities will allow me to post these,(bandwidth limits). They may come down if I hit the limit. -Bob http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/rb26swap/rbswap.html The first three pictures are for the Body/kit car forum and will come down later. Right now, there is just the engine shot. In about 15 min I should have 3-4 more.

Ok, I have been meaning to post these pics for a while. Here is a teaser, the rest are linked. The rear is a 69 corvette split bumper. It looks like it belongs. What they did on the side was fill in the "hole" where the bumper fits into the fender,(i.e. made if flush vice recessed). They re-drilled holes for the bottom mount. It looks great and would really accent a center exit exhaust. This is my RB26 mule I bought. My 240Z will eventually get the RB motor, in about two-three months. Later I will link some picturs of the RB swap in the RB forum. Anyways, the hood is a fiberglass cowl 427 hood from the same year corvette. The actual blending was done poorly and it is cracking around the cowl. Anyways, I really like what was done with the bumper and wanted to show others. -Bob Hanvey (Geocities may not allow outside linking), the main link is first, then the images. I will try to post all of them here,but it might overload my account and then I will remove them. Post if it tells you I exceeded my daily limit. Thanks. http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/rb26swap/rbswap.html

Yea, I found a NPR. BTW, what I got, is nearly identical to what you have, just not painted black. It is HUGE. The inlets/outlets are nearly 3 inches, 2.75. Same dimensions as the auction you showed except core height, and I will have to cut the lower support,(out to the lower front valance) to clear it. This is about as big of an intercooler you can put in front of a Z. I'm going to cut the inlet/outlets and angle them properly to fit the Z. Bottom line, the difference between the "large" and "medium" NPR type intercoolers is just over 2 inches taller on the core. 14 inches tall vs 16 5/8 tall. Mine measurement is rounded. I can get the exact dimension later. But everything else is the same. If I had the "black" intercooler as you do, I would struggle to get it to fit in the front of the Z. Mine is already nearly too tall. EDIT: I counted the overall number of tubes. Yours has 20 tubes, mine has 23. Interesting.... That would suggest that the slightly smaller height is made up by more tubes. Possibly meaning it is more effective.. Hmm... Food for thought.../Edit -Bob (BTW, I paid 280 + $10 shipping) Here is the auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33742&item=2405408122