tamo3

If you look for quality engine builder, Datsun Spirits or Rebello racing is the best and good reputation among community.

I use NGK blue plug wire.

http://datsunpartsllc.com/cart/index.php?p=catalog&parent=8&pg=1 http://www.rebelloracing.com/

While waiting for the ring pin plier, I was working on coilover project. First of all, I try to cut the spring porch using grinder. It takes too much time and I replace disk to cutoff disk. Using right tool is saving so much time. However, I leave too much metal for grinder. It takes about one hour for grind off extra metal to smooth up just one of the strut. For rear strut, I still haven't remove the drum disk brake. In order to remove drum disk brake, I need to remove the Hub. When I read FSM and Blue's work, it sounds harder to remove the rear hub. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html I read some other post from somewhere, using impact wrench is much easier to remove the nut. Grind the inner nut of hub and use impact wrench to remove. Then using 12t shop press from HFT, to push out the hub. So far so good for the strut modification. I decided to go coilover conversion uing Bilstein P30-0032 shock following thehelix112's instruction. I don't know whether GroundControl Coilover Conversion kit was available at the time when thehelix112 did his work. When I calculate the cost of the parts, it seems like it almost same with GC coilover kit. I wonder I can use GC's coilover kit with Bilstein P30-0032.

Fighting for ring pin removal from the reverse idler shaft. Waiting for 2 days, got new ring pin plier Tekton 3574 from amazon.com for $5.88 First try, it broke the tip! Cheap made in China product is not durable enough. I read again datsun garage website again and realized that the author recommend Stanley-Proto J250G lock ring plier. This ring plier is different design from regular ring pin plier. Sure, it is heavy duty construction and using slotted screwdriver to push, finally, I could've removed the ring pin!

Are you willing to trade your .745 gear with my .864 gear?

There is nice valence posted on SF Bay Area Craigslist. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/3781437109.html

I didn't know there is intake manifold design for 45. I read article that porting int & ext is to us nismo gasket as template. I was wondering my cannon intake manifold is smaller hole than gasket and need to port cannon intake manifold too.

That's unfortunate... But it's good to know what's going on now. I will avoid to access to this site 11:00pm - 12:00am (PST)

Hi Dan, Thanks for the info. Is it possible to change "service/ update" mode time sometime later? Like wise 2:00am (PST) majority people is sleeping... It's frustrating every night when I want to access to this site. I bed you can make it automated process. Regards, tamo3

Every night, I'm having issue to access to Hybrid Z site starting around 11:00pm (Pacific Standard Time) I'm using AT&T optical fiber line. I don't have any issue to access to Classic Z, but Hybrid Z is always get Error 503, or Error 500. Is this site goes down to maintenance every night around 11:00pm? Does anyone have same experience?

In order to keep flow in narrow crowed street in Japan, the registration/smog check regulation is really tight in Japan. I think after 5 years old, every 2 years, the car need to pass the strict test. 10 years and older car need to get tested every year. The cost of the test, paper work is around $1000.... That what I heard. The main reason a lots of Z car is import from US to Japan, especially Cali Z, the body condition. In Japan, it rains, snows... 40 years old car easy get rusted and become really bad condition. It relatively faster, easier to restore Cali 240z, 280z car compare with Fairlady Z S30, S31. Good condition of Cali '76 - '78 280z is still relatively cheap due to smog regulation 240z and '75 280z is exception. Regards to engine, Japanese folks can still get a lots of L20 engine and I heard it's more popular than L24, L28, nor L3.2 now a days. Maybe due to better gas millage?

Thanks Leon, I will read over. Tonight progress... not so progress made. Got Stronger Clip Plier at Autozone. It has Internal / External combo with exchangeable tops. 2mm tops is looks promising durability However, it kept slipping with tranny oil and cannot grab the clip... For brake rotor with spacer, I bought M10x1.25 40mm bolts at OSH. This bolt is the best size to fit slotted rotor with 9mm spacer to hub.

I have S12W with brand new rebuild kits for $80+shipping. Caliper is sandblasted and painted with Dupli color caliper paint. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/770289-caliper-rebuild-tech-not-dial-up-friendly.html The right side of the caliper paint get dirty due to stuck piston removal. Now, all the 4 pistons are polished and ready to install condition. Let me know if you want this.

Why not to get 280zx tranny?

Thanks for your feedback. I will measure flywheel size and clutch size. Also bearing collar size. http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/trans_swap%20parts/4tobear_specs1.html If size did not match, I'm plannig to get Exedy + Fidanza flywheel. Spitz17, Did you get yours from eBay? http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXEDY-Clutch-FIDANZA-Flywheel-240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-/310094704749?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item483315b06d&vxp=mtr

Victory! After grinding nuts, finally I could've remove the nuts from mainshaft! Next target is this snap ring. This snap ring is so strong, I broke many cheap HFT snap ring pliers. I have to find strong one somewhere...

Thanks for your advice! Spitz17 for your offer! I really appreciate that! I will let you know once ready to drop tranny. Based on Leon and Spitz17's recommendation I would like to change clutch too. I have brand new OEM 240z clutch bought @ ebay long time ago. Do you think I can use it for 280z or do you have any recommendation? Some people said Exedy is good, other people said ACT is good one. For mainly street use, I don't know what is the better option. I think this is the great opportunity to swap transmission from 4 speed to 5 speed too. I was working on rebuilding 280zx tranny but encounter issue for removing nut from mainshaft and stopped.... I grinded tools to try to bend the nuts, but I think should grind the nut itself. I should re-prioritize and finish rebuilding tranny first at this time to move forward my project.

Thanks spitz17 for your diagnostic. Do you think I can jack up the car and drop transmission with good enough clearance on my drive way?

I removed Clutch slave cylinder and check clutch withdraw level last night. There is no push back at all. I should've realize when I replace slave cylinder at first place. I guess it's mechanical problem, right?

Thanks beerman Pete. If I couldn't find I will shop from there.

Hi spitz17, Leon, Thank you for your advice. I bought Clutch master and slave for '72 240z. But when I check parts number @ RockAuto, same parts are used for '78 280z. therefore, I assume it doesn't matter. I didn't step on clutch pedal when I took video. The clutch slave cylinder is fully extended as default state. There is not push back force from withdraw lever. Therefore When I step on the clutch pedal, I don't feel any traction at all since Clutch slave cylinder is fully extended. That's why I assume it's mechanical problem on crutch itself, not hydraulics issue. I think accurate behavior when stepping on clutch pedal is like this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0UKLYDGwwus

Thanks for the information. I will check out local ACE and OSH. I heard rear s30 stud is 40mm where Quest stud is 45mm. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97317-extended-wheel-studs/?p=914442 Anyway, removing stud from rear extremely painful (I need to remove rear hub too.) and I already got Quest Studs. Yes, you are right. The thickness of the rotor hub is 3/8" for 280z. I exchange my 240z version spacers with member in this forum since I sold my 240z and got 280z. 280z = .375" = 3/8" (280z hubs only) 240z = .5" = 1/2" (240z hubs only) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/88620-toyota-4-piston-caliper-spacer-size/?p=841786 Thanks, tamo3

I Slivermine brake spacer for slotted rotor with Toyota 4x4 conversion. Also I got Quest Studs. Part number at napa was 6412785 for 83-89 Nissan Quest Rear Studs. Now I need longer bolts to connect rotor and hub since I put spacer. Does anyone know where can I get that? Longer version of Part #23 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Axle/FrontAxle/tabid/1728/Default.aspx http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/63877-big-brake-kits-240z-260z-280z/ Thanks, tamo3

Looks good, $100 for that is great deal! Are you going to porting intake and Ext?