Daeron

okay now, am I crazy??? Is that an S30 reflecting in the paint, on the other side of the grind from the cute chick???

According to consensus, that is about the worst exhaust flow you could have. I have broken down "the twice pipes situation" plainly enough multiple times; if you run a search on the term "twice pipes" and insert my name, you should find one of the many conversations regarding how you should and should not set them up. The short version is that you NEED that Y pipe before you split the pipes in two for the run back. TonyD has shared a great deal of firsthand information as well; most of my knowledge is regurgitated from research here and elsewhere.

I mean really, this is supposed to be a PG-13 establishment, isn't it?? Your lucky I didn't include the last line from the post in the quote.

Just out of curiosity, what do you think one could sell a pair of those DGV adapters for? I came across a box full of them at my uncle's the other day, like 4 pairs or so. Just the manifold adapters, though..

I would get the engine with its harness, then install it into the vehicle, and begin removing the vehicle's wiring as needed. Then evaluate what level of wiring harness you need to purchase, and go from there.

have you checked the belt yet??

Capital!!! must feel great.

definitely worth it if it is a CLSD, check it out. A finned rear cover is a sure bet; it should look like the cylinder head of a lawnmower engine.

Interesting side note: I saw a lady getting a quart of motor oil at wal-mart tonight. Accel brand Motor oil for "engines in model year 1988 and older vehicles," SAE grade SF. ZDDP, anyone? A quick googling reveals that I am NOT the first to make this discovery (chevelle and corvette forums, as well as antique studebaker were noted by this reporter) and that opinions on using a product of such apparent quality (sarcasm, looks cheap) in one's engine abound. However, I wanted to mention it to somebody....

The differential and the rear axles could both potentially be used, but it would require some work. The diff *should* be an LSD, but I may be mistaken in that. Generally speaking, I eyeball any 70s-80s RWD Nissan "just in case" to see if someone installed an LSD along the way. Not much else, though. Not directly, anyhow.

Have you been running your component checks at the ECU pinout? I am asking because a "bad computer" diagnosis and a "bad wiring" diagnosis are VERY easy to get switched around. Testing the component, AT the component, tests the component.. testing it thru the wire harness tests the harness as well. Also, don't LIMIT yourself to the flowchart necessarily.. it IS a tool, and sometimes those older FSMs need to be used with imagination. Checking a FSM for your model year *might* prove to be worthwhile...

There should be a flowchart in the bible. Follow the flowchart; it is the key to truly utilizing the manual to its fullest extent.

Wow.. I've waited until the end to say anything, but I think this is great. I have always wanted to see someone use that "dead" space, and while I am sure I have seen it used in some capacity beyond wipers, I cannot recall. This build will definitely stick out in the memory.

I have to see this car...... thats been an idea of mine for QUITE some time. Send me a PM and lemme know when would be good for you, I am off on Mondays and Tuesdays and normally work afternoon/night shifts through the rest of the week, but I get short days..

Heres a Z32 with an L28 in it: http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/other/1062560599/1062560599ss.htm

Have the starter tested. Chances are its got worn brushes. The other starter should swap, even if it looks slightly different. If you are handy, you can take the starter motor apart and insect it. Everything is fairly obvious inside; you may even ultimately decide to rebuild it yourself if you take this plunge.

I think the 86 is the nicest looking year for the 300ZX, from 84 thru 96 TBH

I never thought seeing that much dead weight, set that far in front of the front axles of an S30, could look so APPEALING.......

tee hee, me too

sea foam deep ceep is as much better than PB, as PB is to WD 40. In other words, Deep Creep makes PB Blaster look like garbage. Torch is also helpful, heat thestud OR the block around it, but work from one to the other. Don't heat the broken bolt and the area of the block evenly; heat DIFFERENCe is what makes the bolt free up. good luck, this is a PITA any way you cut it. You MIGHT try grinding flat spots on it to grip better with a vise-grip; a small pipe wrench or (if you are *really good*) a pair of channel locks might just do it too.

aparently, meaning "quote for truth" or in other words, +1.

and, is your next project another EV, is it a datsun, ???

Subaru SVX: EJ-22 styled, 3.3 liter flat six, 230 NA hp. UNfortunately, only ever came stateside with a 4 speed slushbox, but it WAS AWD. and like, 4000 pounds. The engine was worthy, but the vehicle was a sad replacement for the XT in my mind. Subarus rock.

In case you hadn't realized yet, Cobra Tim there is one of my two brothers who own this ITS car Thanks for the advice. The other brother (Chris is his name, and I am Shawn, for the record.) has since explained to me that this "slight rough spot" was felt with the head off of the engine, and he has read these responses and decided that on this particular head, his concern was a red herring. We DO have plenty of heads from which to pull towers, so if we need to replace them come assembly time, we will.

Sharper than that, usually