Daeron

probly too late, but I have always INFINITELY preferred white or light colors for the engine bay... looks nice though. Whatever color its painted in, a nice, clean, shaved engine bay is a MAJOR detail. I can understand how working on it makes you feel less ill.

@ the Lambo Doors Motivational Poster.. (or maybe its more DE motivating than anything else

you left out one key specification.... How many dead bodies can you hide under the hood in all that extra space now? I LOVE the way it sounds, I never would have guessed it was a turbo 4 cyl from the video. Great looking car!!

Sticky?? thanks for the lessons guys!

thats a gauge cluster out of an IS300

You aren't getting what I am trying to describe.. Instead of welding injector bosses to the rails in the outside middle of the C-shape, I am trying to suggest welding a flange there from a stock EFI manifold. Where you have pictured clamps in your rendering, cut the pipes. On either side of these runners, weld a flange from a stock EFI manifold. Retain the injector bosses on one of them (probably the top one but I would need the pieces in my hand to visualize it right) and use them rather than purchase any. This has the advantage of allowing you to maintain one set of injector bosses from the flange, (rather than buying them) and use those to inject the fuel essentially where you have it pictured in your most recent rendering. It might not be doable; but just a little time and patience looking at the flanges on the stock manifold should tell you that in short order.

I wasn't suggesting it had a purpose; the concept occurred to me and I had no idea what effect it would have, so I asked. Thanks for confirming my suspicions. I just like to throw my wild-ass ideas out there because once in a great while, one of them actually makes sense. I would hate to discard an idea simply because my current knowledge level cant tell me whether it is a good one or not. Gollum, I was seriously thinking that a stock FI intake flange might be weldable to your "primary" runners, and that takes car of both injector bosses and attaching the primaries and secondary runners.... (primary being head side, secondary being plenum side) Add a second flange minus injector bosses on the other side, and bolt them together. You are maintaining the spacing between the runners the same across your entire unit, so is there any reason why it wouldn't work like that? Plus, you can use half of a paper intake/exhaust manifold gasket to seal between these two flanges. Oh, and regarding the LD28 manifold.. I was just wondering if you had seen the design of the runners that they used,,,

That was just the first design iteration of the 350Z; my understanding is that vehicle led directly to the 350Z that we all know and love/hate today. Nissan's North American design studio came up with that, threw it at the boys in Tokyo, and the 350Z was born a few years later. I still have the first car magazine that mentioned that "reborn 240Z."

You need to increase "nerd" levels in your brain to the point where the physics involved can be funny.

I am NOT a fan of removing the stock gauges from the Z; I have a non-rational love of the stock faceplates, so keep that in mind when you hear me say... THAT is the ABSOLUTE BEST looking dash I have ever seen in an S30 with aftermarket gauges. You have to think about the fact that you could be pulling in a couple of bills for your pocket with the time it takes to restore these dashboards.. think income, not wasting your time "playing." Will someone who actually has MONEY to spend on their Z throw a number at him? I am struggling with insurance right now so its REALLY EASY for me to say "heck, I'd pay $800 for a dash that looked like that!" because I couldn't shell out $50 for a full tank of gas if my mothers life depended on it right now...

Wait wait wait wait WAIT!!! Center the TB flange on the plenum, facing down right in the middle, and make an A frame box tapering to smaller vloume out by cylinders 1 and 6. You want even distribution, there you go. You could PROBABLY even install some air combs similar to what monzter did in his intake plenum. Ford Escort, mid 90's, the intake runners are long curves.. you MIGHT be able to get away with using those as stock, but looking at some of your later renderings I don't know. You HAVE seen images of the LD28 intake manifold, right? EDIT Regarding the strut tower bar, I *think* theres a good chance that the spacing between #3 and 4 intake runners (in other words, the spot on the head where the 3&4 exhaust runners are) should provide a spot to run a strut tower brace bar through there. I need to find a picture of the bar I have in mind, but there is one with a C-shape mount, and an ear that comes up on the hind side of the mount. If the bar is mounted on the back side of the ear it should be kosher.. as long as the plenum sits low enough. END EDIT Now, I have an interesting idea that I am curious to know the impact of.... What would the result be if one were to build a manifold along these lines, with a balance tube uniting all six runners near the head? I haven't got a clue, but it was one of my first thoughts when the subject of "how long those runners are!!" came up.. (the better to torque your n*ts off, my dear!!) Me LIKEY this idear!!!! You could possibly even run a set of 45* tubes to a single flange pointing skywards, install the injectors on the fender side of that flange, and have it bolt together so it would be easily removed for valve cover (and spark plug) access.

Nice vid, I can't believe I forgot to say that before!

I was going to say, misery loves company.. and there is your company!!!! Zbratt, I will ask on his behalf, could you help him with the repair of the car? It sounds like he just needs a place to do it so he can get the car up to his house. I am unclear exactly why the BMW is a complete loss at this point; any chance of recovering that car? THAT is what would tick me off the most about this whole affair, the judgment with the accident..

BTW it was pretty as soon as you got those carbs and valve cover on it

woohoo!!! NOW its time for some progress, the gremlin is extricated!

whats the coeficcient of drag on this vehicle? is the airdam blocked off to the radiator? is the front grill opening narrowed down? are the windows open? where are the vortex generators? what is the pitch of the eight foot high wing on the rear deck?

electrical fire == BAD. Trust me, I know.. I had always thought that my car escaped a full raging inferno by a matter of minutes, but when I tore into the wiring a month or two ago, I discovered it was likely more along the lines of 40-60 seconds before my entire car went up. I will never know exactly what caused my short, (because it is almost certainly burnt; I have a suspect that is almost certainly the culprit but it is impossible to tell...) but it sounds like your problem may well be the fusible link that supplies the entire fuse box, along with other aspects of the car.. I am not familiar with how the wiring on the 240 is set up; I have never been made to do any electrical work on anyone else's car, so all I know is my 75 280. But, if you have your shcematic handy, all you need to do is start at the positive battery cable, and define a few waypoints on the path from + batt terminal to the fusebox and the rest of the pwoer circuits on the car, and test for continuity from battery post to point A, then A to point B, then B to point C, then C to fusebox. Repeat for other main power circuits like the alternator output circuit if needs be. I found a .pdf of the 75 FSM wire diagram that is HUGE, and all one page. I zoomed to 33% and copied an image to my clipboard, then pasted it into a .bmp file to play with in paintbrush. I started by looking at a few of the main power circuits. I had a blown fusible link that was my main issue, and I had to replace the block because it was completely toast; From there I traced my short issue that made the links a problem down into the fuel pump power circuit. Start tracing wires out, I used different colored dots at each corner, and every so often along long lines, to ensure I was tracing the right line. And just STARE at it, tracing different lines, saving or not saving as you like, and get to know how it is laid out. These wire diagrams are more of a tool stating the nature of the connections made between pieces, rather than an actual line drawing of how the wires are all laid out... and it takes some time just becoming INCREDIBLY familiar with the diagram to REALLY be able to translate the line drawing to reality in front of you. As a final note on "reading datsun FSM wire diagrams for the beginner," sometimes the wire diagram IS wrong about a wire, or a wire color, or something. It happens. BUT.... before you EVER draw the conclusion, "well, that wire is Blue, with a yellow stripe, so the stupid drawing is wrong!" you should check it sixteen ways to sunday to make sure you didnt trace something wrong, or read something wrong, or count to the wrong pin somewhere, or something like that. So far I have only found ONE wire on my diagram that didn't match my car; I have come *very* close to "finding" about a dozen, but all have been mistakes I made reading either reality, or the diagram. So yes, the diagram CAN be wrong... but YOU can be, too. Make sure you are right before acting when the diagram contradicts what you see.

Do you empty your PM? (or some permutation thereof)

tony.. that is the ONLY place on the ENTIRE internet that term occurs, according to google. Clicky. Hint: say it out loud, without giving the Y its own syllable.

Ever take an impact gun apart?? There is an air motor which is a central drum with slots in it for vanes. The vanes slide out thru centrifugal inertia when the air is passed over the circumference of the drum, and this turns a "hammer cage." The motor is solidly linked to the hammer cage, usually through a splined connection, and there are one or two asymmetrical "hammers" that are pinned to the outer circumference of the hammer cage in such a manner as to allow them to swivel. The anvil that they strike on forms the deepest part of the steel bar that forms the square driveshaft that you slip the socket onto. When you have the mechanism in your hand (there are surprisingly diverse differences in types, just like gas internal combustion engines, but they all essentially match this description) it is rather easy to rotate one side or the other (cage/anvil) in either direction without ever catching the hammer against the anvil. In other words, there IS no solid connection inside the gun.. Just a hammer or two being constantly swung around that anvil at high speeds and thwacking an offset face on the base of the driveshaft. If you want to picture the shape of the cross section of the anvil, picture a pencil with half of the wood removed, but the lead intact. The hammers beat on the flat face of the wood that remains. In other words, using an impact gun IS just beating on it with a hammer.

15 inch rims!?!?! isnt a 225/50 series 15 a bit SHORTER than stock tire size?? is this a typo, is this car geared for tires like this.. or what? I ask because if you DID stick with smaller diameter wheels then you are a man after my own heart... it didn't look so much like 15 inch rims in the pictures but on review I cannot tell. The more I look at it the more I believe it.. and I can't BELIEVE that I didn't notice sooner.... I LIKE it...

I knew someone was gonna be the wise man:ass: to ask that.... just because I spelled it out... all in good fun of course. I couldn't tell you for certain, but I would bet yes.. anyone with a SERIOUS answer care to make me delete my post? (in other words, no serious offense intended towards the response, mopar-man.. and honestly, if anyone posts a better answer than mine then this is superfluous, so I will probly delete it heh)

The clean kind of rope. Only internal parts that might suffer damage are parts that are softer than rope. It IS as simple as it sounds... it WOULD be wise to make sure you are at TDC of the compression stroke for whichever cylinder you use, just to be certain that the valves are fully seated against the head.. otherwise, you MIGHT manage to pinch the rope against a partially open valve and bend it. If you find TDC for compression stroke, and only feed a little bit of rope in at a time until you get enough to stop the cylinder, you cannot hurt anything. If anyone has any argument to the above statement, PLEASE let me know; to the best of my knowledge, the "safety" of this method, when following the above caveats, is 100% for any reciprocating piston internal combustion engine.

My stock battery cables are long gone, but I know there was a fusible link connected to the positive cable for the EFI system, and it looks an awful lot like what you pictured... Have you looked over the troubleshooting sections in the FSM for "slow cranking while starting" for any other leads? I don't know how much it will help, but tomorrow I will pop my hood and see if its worth it to take any pictures of my car. I THINK there was another grounding point on the negative cable, that I just ran to a chassis ground, but I may be mistaken. Any chance of a better foto of that errant wire? The plug REALLY looks alot like that fusible link I mentioned, and your description fits the bill perfectly, other than it being on the negative wire. Any chance someone else swapped the battery leads somewhere along the line?

sounds like someone got the fuel injection line for the price of regular fuel line... that stuff is SUPPOSED to be about $6-8 a foot, but I don't think I have ever paid that... That is why I keep going back to the same store for fuel injection line anytime I need it, even though I HATE pep boys.... dumb cashier girl at pep boy's FTW