Daeron

I agree largely with the point Jon brings up, as well as the above posters who wouldn't do business with someone of that kind of attitude. My suggestion is this: call him back, explain that you weren't dickering about the price, apologize for any rudeness you may have had, and try to fish an apology out of him. See what you can do as far as the warranty situation goes. (In other words, see if you can guilt trip him over his jackass move into giving you the extended warranty, heh) In other words, give him half a shot to apologize and find out what you were initially wondering. It sounds to me more like the other guy would be preferable anyhow, so to do what I suggest basically either confirms that, OR if it somehow changes your mind then so be it. However, if you choose to totally ignore this shop from here on out, I would say you are certainly justified. In the end, my guess is the same as Jmortensen: he made a bad assumption, and if it costs him this business, then he pays that price.

It is the fuel injector. Well, after posting last night I dug out my FSM and couldn't find a throttle diameter or injector flow rate, but just now I stepped out front and measured it. 60mm opening. It tapers down at the actual throttle plate to something like 40-45, and thats being conservative. Times two, even with the restriction caused by the schnozzle for the injector, I think should be ample, certainly for a roadster (maybe a turbo roadster??) and possibly, use roadster SU manifolds on a Z to use three??? Potentiometer-style TPS fitted, IAC fitted, cable throttle drum...... it wouldn't be difficult to drill up some holes. I will have to look further into the size and shape of the footprint, but... Overall, my point was that through some simple junkyard picking, ideal throttle bodies would probably start to fall in your lap.

Excellent! That is exactly what I need to do to my car to repair what sidelined it three years ago.. unfortunately, it needs alot more than that (or I never would have let it get sidelined) In all reality, there is a good chance that replacing all the wiring, and installing a new relay, will "revive" an otherwise broken headlight combo switch. The switches only need to a connection to break down a little bit, at one point, and they start getting a little questionable when they carry as much current as they do in stock configuration. With properly installed relays, the load placed on the switch is much lower, and as a result you may be able to avoid needing a toggle switch. Just thought I would mention that. Good luck, sounds like you understand what you're working with.

I can't see any reason, other than the "stealth" desire, to go for the SU body. Try the TB from an SPFI 80s Subaru: times two. You might need to upgrade the injector in the TB, and I know nothing about possibilities for that, but I don't know... i cannot recall the flow rate on the injector at the moment. I had honestly come across the idea for doing the exact setup Z-ya has done, when he did, FROM having thought and spoken extensively with my uncle, about making a setup for one of his roadsters, using MS, SU manifold, and two subaru throttle bodies. If not the subaru piece, then find one thats more appropriate; there are thousands of TBI cars in the junkyard.

THAT is saying alot. 45 grand might build you an AWD 400 horse 240Z, if it were spent right by the right person

Well, I posted in S30 and S130 rather than L6 tech.. It seemed more appropriate. Please pardon the double post, but the gist is I would LOVE it for some of you friendly guys to take some shots of your stock fuel rail and intake manifold, and post them here along with the specific engine year. I have a mound of intakes to sort through and figure out, and it would be mega helpful if I had some photographic evidence to identify the various little bits from intake to intake. See my thread in the S30 forum here for more: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=126891 Thanks in advance!

Hey, I hate to just throw this out here, but sometime in the next couple of days I am likely to begin the task of sorting through a mound of L28 intakes, of varying years and varying states of completion. I would appreciate any photographs you guys can post here of your 280Z or ZX along with the specific model year of the engine shown, just so I can use them as reliable identifiers for the various small items like fuel pressure regulators, fuel rail styles, EGR components, etc. HOPEfully, if we have enough earlier intakes, I just may end up making these into nice finished products to sell here, but in any case its a mound of parts we need to deal with and thats got my name written all over it. Photographic assistance is very kindly appreciated.

That an early model, with the vented hatch?

It is very well executed, but it is well executed in an idiom that isn't very appealing to me. Just like the 350Z, albeit a slightly different idiom. That make any sense? I can never REALLY make a final judgment on a new vehicle until I see one in the flesh anyhow. In any case, the car is very impressive, and hopefully it will take off. (that way in ten years the engines will be ready to stuff in an S30! )

fat-bottomed girls, they make the rockin' world go round.

sounds like a confusion in the way the "brake light" circuit and the "running light" circuit are connected as far as wiring for switched power.. I don't know any of the details of how the car is wired, but it should be a simple pair of wires that was installed backwards.

Honestly, outside the Corvettes of recent years, not many new cars get my engine pumping at all. This skyline is another disappointment, but I would call it much LESS of a disappointment than many other vehicles. The first gen S30 will always, always be one of my favorite body designs, period. I wince when people put skyline tail lights on the things; save that for S130s. Any Z or ZX up to 1987 really really appeals to me much more than anything ELSE Nissan has released since then. I am still waiting for them to bring back to ORIGINAL Fair Lady, the Roadster. Honda beat them to the punch in 2000, and they still refuse to admit that they could go toe to toe with Miata... and NOW the low-priced roadster market is saturated, between the mazda, the honda, the pontiac, and the saturn.. In the end, whaddaya gonna do? Corvette is the last car that mad much room for improvement, looks wise. Concentrate on the go-boxes; thats all thats important to us anyhow. Like was said above, most of these cars are going to be sold and used as status symbols and NOT dead sexy sports cars. Alas.

can anyone find any flaws via photographs here?? The "worst" I could see was the TINIEST mis alignment of the hatch, like it wasn't closing QUITE enough.. and THAT is nit picking to say the LEAST... Like you said, "had to be an auto"

awesome vid man!

Maybe I am missing something here.. but how does a ground wire short out against the chassis and burn?

I'm trying to go CHEAP, and as painless as possible. I am not an air conditioning addict by any means; I lived through five years in florida without it in the car; I WOULD like to fix it eventually, and I am just trying to get a realistic idea what I am looking at. Rebuilding the compressor thats on there, and replacing some seals, then spending a bunch of money on R12 to recharge it, MAY we be the cheapest way for me to go.. but I am not married to it. Essentially I was looking to get some discussion going regarding these different ideas.. What I have come away with from this so far, has been that IF I wanted to retrofit an R-134A system, with modern components, into the vehicle, I would have to find the evaporator coil that goes inside the car, and replace the one in the Datsun with one of the same dimensions... That would make the project much more difficult, so I am guessing thats out. What is so different about the condensors and evaporators for R12 based systems and R-134a? All I have been able to gather is that the condensors for 134a are larger area, because they need it.. but thats hardly any real info. thanks for the responses!

What's to stop me from just getting the condensor, drier, etc from a more modern vehicle, that uses 134A, and retrofitting them onto the car? If I am spending big $$ anyhow, why spend it on stuff thats going to take the (admittedly superior) yet obsolete refrigerant? Seems like everyone in their new cars are happy enough.. am I just THAT ignorant of how much colder R12 is??

I am very close to clueless when I think about bringing the AC back to life in my car. The car is in "pre-project" stage, meaning i am not doing squat with it right now.. but any time I start thinking about the AC I find that I don't know where to begin. The entire factory system is still there, and i think it even functions (can't recall) and I have a complete spare control console anyhow.. but what I don't know is what I am looking at to try to bring it back to life. Never, in my ownership of the car, has it worked. (since Y2K) What am I looking at? Rebuild the compressor (I am sure I could do it) or replace with a remanufactured unit? Is the stock componentry even worth messing with, since I don't want to bother with trying to find R-12? Possibly try to find a not-TOO-dissimilar unit off a later model vehicle (using R-134A) from a junkyard? Maybe recon the junkyard condenser, too? What lines might I keep, and what might need to be replaced with newer parts? I know a LITTLE bit about Auto ACs, and I understand what goes into an air conditioner well.. but I don't have ANY experience whatsoever, and am really rather ignorant on the entire topic. Any help, advice, links or literature is appreciated!

What about a four barrel and the intake manifold for that? We might be able to find some headers, too, but I am not sure what all we would need... I emailed my brother and dad, when I hear back from them you may get a PM from me.

I knew it dun' me good when mah pappy dropped me on mah head! thanks for the enlightenment as always, and thanks for backing my idea up with more support than I even knew it had!

Thanks john, you're my hero Thats essentially everything I was trying to summarize in my post.

Pure sexy. Jaw-dropping. Thanks.

i couldn't pick up too much of your hesitation on the video, but try taking the cover off the tps and making sure the thing is working properly.. find Blue's techtips page for the EFI bible if you don't know how. Its another thing to check, at least.

what kind of throttle switch does this vehicle have?? Switch type, like the L28E FI, or potentiometer type? Just a SWAG, really, but I thought I would throw it out there.

sounds like a million dollar wound to me... I bet it got your heart racing (in a bad way) for a moment, though. How did you make your valve cover gasket?