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If the forward inner pivot is moved back from stock like in my hi-tech drawing, then you don't touch the forward pivot frame, you just raise the floor area behind it in the secret compartment area to clear the raised inner pivots. Here is an electronic napkin sketch as Cary likes to call them of the clearance area and roll center adjustable spacers with high mis-alignment washers. The heims are horizontal 'cause Cary says they are designed to move that way.

Here is a variation of the John Thomas rear suspension. If you welded the rectangular tubing to the arms and had the heim joints on the inside you could also raise the inner pivots to change the roll center for a lowered Z, change the toe by adjusting the bearings and you have double shear for the bearings. If you raise the inner pivots some floor clearancing would be needed. Or if you put the bearings on the outside there is less fabrication but you can't change the roll center. Both of these you have to disassemble them to change toe, unlike Terrys design.

I got parts and gaskets for my Mikuni 44's from http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/

Thought some of you might enjoy the turbos on this Camaro LS1. http://www.baautox.com/forum/index.php?t=msg&th=203&start=0&S=0e92b0aa3d6c37208e440ddd208546b1

A factory driver for Porsche who was a friend of my brother's came over from Germany and was showing my brother the line around Buttonwillow during a Green Flag event. When he came to the esses his quote was as he bounced off the curbs, "Zer iz no reason to turn here". The other quote we use often is when a track day video of a lap around Laguna Seca was sent to him he e-mailed back "The line looks very good but why did you film it in slow motion?"

Drsideways runs a vintage Z at VIR with 10 inch slicks. He uses tie rod ends from a Ford F250, Moog # ES2214R for his custom front tubular arms as ball joints.

I wonder if you put the rod end in double shear somehow if that would be strong enough? Machine those spherical bearing retainers Terry and I will be your first customer. Here is a clean set up used by John Thomas in FP. He was the fastest Z on the second course once he sorted out some fuel delivery problems he encountered on the first day.

This could be taking 3 steps back but how about keeping the rod ends in the back and welded clamping plates, like you used Terry,on a split, threaded connecting tube and used a QA1 double adjuster in the center.

The 23x9.5x15 slicks are cantilever and are designed for a 7 inch wheel. Thats what I used since they are plentiful and cheap used but they don't have the most even wear pattern. Pics of the Goodyear version 23x9x15 on 15x8 wheels are in my gallery on the green car.

The current rear flares seem to be the same ones used by Don Devendorfs IMSA car. Those ended up on the white street car pictured. Some of the earlier shots of the BSR car show a different shape. I don't know if this is the same car. I would find the best pics I could find and use some of those great English restoration businesses to fab up some close replicas. You could always do a Big Sam replica. Good luck and great find on the early chassis.

College is an exciting and busy time. Wouldn't it be great to have a rolling chassis as a graduation present? Then do the engine install as a father son welcome to the real world project. I do not know your family situation but I find it sad that your dream must fade away. I am in a family of non- automotive enthusiasts so I work alone but it is still fun. Good luck and still visit this site, I will miss someone who mentions Can-Am and IMSA in the same post.

Up until this year everything would break down small enought to fit in the attic. Meanie and mini-meanie (the 8ft smoke monster and his 1 1/2 ft clone) are going to live in my study. The abdomen of the spider is fiberglass and will live in the side yard. The rest of the stuff still fits in the attic. Next year I think I will need a shed to house the motley crew. All of my ideas I copied from other how to web sites. There are some serious haunters out there. Check out the work these guys do. http://www.terrorsyndicate.com Meanie in his final resting place Meanie and mini-meanie climbing skeletons before I finished staining the upper 2. The motorized flying crank ghost is just visible in the window

By the expression I would say he is a Toyota owner who just lost one to a Z.

Here is the finished spider rider. The smoke blowing monster made one kid cry. Now I can get back to car stuff.

For the house and also my daughters school has a Fall Festival with a haunted house. The how-to website I built this from (pretty easy) is http://www.halloweencreations.com Look under "projects" in the Figures section under "Mr.Barlow".

My smoke breathing 8 ft. monster with flicker flame eyes is almost done. Next is a refurbish of my giant spider (I am using fiberglass for the body so perhaps some skills gained will translate to IMSA flare molds.)

This kit was made from a very low race car so the wheel cutoutouts are very high like raised eyebrows on a not too low car. Solutions for different size wheels include cutting the fenders which is easy since there is no inner fender, or to fill the space you can do as Dan Juday did when he added a lip on his car. It is a combination of three kits in a very tastefull filling of the gap that can occur on a street car. The rear flares on Dan's car is the modified YZ flare.

http://www.ztrix.com The 280YZ kit. Bill Coffey modified his to include the bumper and headlights and he uses a different front air dam. The molds were taken from a GT-2 racecar. You can check my set out if you sell me the 280 strut tubes. If you don't then...........just kidding. Check out Jay Hitchcocks photo album. http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=12636 He is in Sacramento too.

Here are 18x12 radials (more negative camber) front and back. I have 16x12 and will use bias ply like Bill Coffeys car (below)on my autocross car. My car

Are there any other Hybriders out there into building Halloween props or is it just me. I am using my 240Z windshield wiper motors from my 2 autocross/track 73's for an Axworthy ghost and an animated skeleton. I am also building my second and third Flying Crank Ghosts. For those who have not seen one, you will be the hit of the neighborhood. Even the toughest little guy said at the door, "I really like your ghost, man". Check out the inventor’s how-to website at http://www.phantasmechanics.com/

Excellent, does that mean you have extra 280 strut tubes you want to sell like we discussed on the phone or are you still deciding your direction with the suspension. Every time I go to the Sacto pick n Pull i feel like I am going to be robbed out in the isolated Datsun corner. I guess I should try Roseville's. Steve

I would start with r compound tires on a seperate set of wheels. You will be amazed at the difference. Then start sorting out the handling after driving with sticky tires. I could fit my cantelevered 9 inch wide slicks, tool box, air tank, jack, wheel ramps(wood), folding chair inside the car for the drive to and from events. You have good spring rates for a dual purpose car.

If your are going for a Can Am look I have been partial to this one. It looks like spacers were added to the stock fender in front and flat metal work in the rear vented out like a Group7 car...well sort of.

In the south bay check out http://www.magnumforceracing.com/cars/cars.htm They did a roll bar in my friends Z. The big Sacramento drag shop is at http://www.cachassisworks.com/

The pic is connected to photobucket so it should work. I also put it in my gallery at http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4052&cat=500&page=1