zlalomz

And now back to the exploding booth myth. Since you are drawing overspray through the fans is there a spark problem when using cheap fans? I remember reading of a certain kind of fan with an insulated motor.

I put a 1 1/2 tube as close as I could tell where your bar is to check the clearance. I have the short Mikuni manifold. My large ITG filter won't fit with the bar there but maybe a custom airbox will work for you. The stock throttle linkage looks to be in jeopardy so something fancy or a cable throttle. My engine is in the stock location with newer stock motor mounts (no sag). I checked when I built my orange car front tubes and it cleared but this is because of the freakishly high dash bar that Rick at Rebello built. It worked for clearance on the engine bay bars but made my door X bars too high. I modified the driver bar for easier access.

BJ, how do bend these corner gussets? They look much stronger than straight ones.

Excellent, and when they are both in the container you can ship it to my house. The counterweight is just a rectangular tube and a post welded on, a lot less work than many I have seen. I lock it in place with a nut welded over a hole on the spinning shaft. I just tighten the bolt to clamp it down. It doesn't need much tightening to lock in place. I have been inside the cockpit with the car sideways and did not need to lock it down. I would just move it a little to get access to the hard to weld tubes.

Hey Tony, I used gravity instead of electricity. By counterweighting the rotating assembly you can rotate my car with your little finger.

Insert California joke here. I get to share the roads with these people!

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/bar/305649223.html

Scooby and Shaggy are HybridZ lovers at heart. http://sacramento.craigslist.org/car/302169139.html

Here is a nice looking one in Northern California for sale. I wish I had the money so I could join this thread as an owner and not an onlooker! http://sacramento.craigslist.org/car/301610686.html

Frank280ZX's pictures I just learned are of the Bob Sharp GT2 Z.

Did you see these in the photo album recently by frank280ZX? The bar is mounted high in aluminum blocks. I like how they tied the bar into the emergency brake mount holes . It looks like the diff has been raised, the roll center changed like you did Terry and the triangulation similar to what Drivesidways did is very clever for the control arm rear mount. Also the sub frame is notched like you did Jon for the front of the arm to clear.

Here are some pics of member Drivesideways vintage racer with those style bars.

Awe shucks guys. I just collected photos and asked permission from great photographers like RacerX, tube80Z here on Hybrid and others. The idea came about when I picked up an IMSA flared 280Z shell. The owner didn't know what the flares were so I tried to find photos on the internet and no collections could be found. I was old enough to have been to the Camel GT IMSA races and was shocked at how little info there was about the GT/U class cars. Too bad digital cameras weren't around then.

http://www.kwikload.com/ I have never seen one in action but it looks fun to load. One argument in favor of tying down the car vs. the wheels is do you want your expensive shocks working for the whole tow to and from events?

For a dual purpose FP/street car make sure you have a good roll bar. With 200/225 lb springs and cantilever slicks, I put my car well up on 2 wheels after a quick left/right on a concrete runway. That said I have seen two Z's in the SF Bay Area that are very similar to your car (cherry) and have run FP with 15 inch slicks without cutting the fenders. One guy is a former Bondurant instructor. Both of them are root beer brown, weird. I know your brakes are too big for 15's though.

A video from myfastbmw.com http://myfastbmw.com/videos/dsp.mpg He writes the spacer was too thick and not properly torqued.

I am envious of your metal working skills.You mentioned some venting to be added. The old Jim Cook wide body had vents in the front to bring the shape back into the door. http://www.jimcookracing.com/catalog/page21.html

I came across this photoshop on the internet and was intrigued by how stock tail lights look widened. If someone wants me to remove it please let me know.

Here is a picture I took at the 4th annual Z convention many moons ago. This was the autocross held at the Pleasanton Fairgrounds. This is such a great story and still not over with the red one missing. Someone has got to know.

I had a diagonal in the main hoop but I didn't fit so I went with the X bar to add some clearance and also protection for a passenger. I'm 6'4 and fighting for every inch of room. Here are some pics of an x bar used in the Devendorf IMSA GT/U car in 1978. Zsane posted these in this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116774&page=16&highlight=school+photos

Beautiful job. I love the smooth look and the color. If you are careful your one piece front end can last. My brother had his done 20 years ago and it is still solid. It saw daily commuting over the Santa Cruz mountains and quite a few track days and is holding up fine. The body shop guys took bets on how soon he would be back with a cracked airdam but it never happened. I almost put the airdam into a parking curb once so be selective in who you let drive it!

I bought the same flares from Andy Craig, the builder of Tom Holts original car and he said they came from Texas. The fit was really bad on them so I ended up buying the MSA street flares which were much better. I gave them away to another autocrosser years ago.

Years ago before I had a compressor I hack sawed the lip and then used a drill driven nibbler I got from Eastwood that worked great. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1450&itemType=PRODUCT

Ditto on the Blaster. I squirted it down the sides without drilling a hole, soaked it over night and it came out with a tug the next day.

OK, let me rephrase this. The reason I want to explore moving the caster some up top as well as below is it seems to require more than an inch increase to get 7 degrees or more of caster. You are only allowed a 1 inch increase or decrease in the wheelbase in the Prepared category. Quoting blueovalz : "I moved the entire crossmember forward to increase my caster to roughly 7 degrees. The shaft that comes out of the steering column to the coupler is splined and will slide several inches with adaquate engagement. To use camber plates on top to account for all of the required movement would push the towers inside dimensions beyond their limits. Not knowing the static ride length of your struts, I am guessing that a minimum of about 1.25" movement will be required to achieve the 7 degree (4 degree change) caster." If Tom wants to explore 7 degrees or more I don't think just lengthening the T/C rod will keep him legal.