Oltmann

quote: Originally posted by Scottie-GNZ: However, that 70 to 115mph time is a little hard to swallow for anything but a 500+rwhp engine. That time might be because it was done on a dyno as opposed to on the road/track. I downloaded that software as well as the data files. You can set it up to display a Speed/Time graph, but all this tells you is how long it took to spin the dynos flywheel to X mph. In other words, mostly useless information. Sorry if I'm stating the obvious, but I got pretty confused by this thread until I took a look at the software.

quote: Originally posted by hiromino: hi. i'm looking for wheel for 240z. found one but not sure if it will fit without modification. 17x7 offset +40. will this fit? or what the best size for 240z?thanx No. If you do a search on "wheel adapters" you will find much more info on how you can make them fit. The question has been asked before. The best size for a 240z? What are you trying to start a war?

quote: Originally posted by Steven82: What cars did these go in? This maybe a stupid question, but I am new to all these things. It seems they came in the Z28 and corvettes. What years though? Which years are the best? The LT-1 is the easier than the LS-1 right. They also used the T-56 tranny right? Thanks for the answer on all these little questions. Here is some info on the LT1, related to swapping it into a Fiero. Much of it applies to your questions as well. edit: http://www.fierolt1.com/faq.htm duh

As you said, you have perfect feedback. Tell him to send it first. You could also send him money for shipping first, along with a xerox of the MO for the rest so he knows it's coming.

quote: Originally posted by jzd14: i find a way to take out the factory radio from my 240z without braking all the plastic i tried taking out the fuse box but that didn't help any and i can't figure out how to get the face plate on the instrument panel detached from the heater please help me! There are two phillips-head screws holding the heater control box onto the panel on each side of it. You need to reach up from behind to get them. Get plenty of light on the problem, and you should be fine. It was not very hard for me, but if you don't have long skinny arms you might have to really work to get a screwdriver in there. Good luck.

Here's a quote from an article about the Saab Variable Compression engine: "Due to its variable compression ratio, the SVC engine can run at an optimum compression ratio of 14:1 at low engine loads to maximize fuel efficiency and lower harmful tailpipe emissions." Thanks Google!

quote: Originally posted by Hydra: Looked high and low, but couldn't find a site for EMI racing. The original intention of all this was for me to make my own bushings, and if its feasible, possibly do the same for others. I like the idea of Nylon bushings as they have less friction and wear better than poly bushings, plus I have more time than money, and love spending time in the machine shop. So I would really appreciate any advice or information as I'm not sure where to start... Machining nylon is pretty easy. I found this site that explains it pretty well so I don't have to. http://www.sdplastics.com/nylon.html You can find a number of different kinds of plastic at McMaster-Carr. The two most difficult things about working with plastic are heat buildup and subsequent melting, followed by the difficulty of clamping the stuff properly without bending. It is pretty simple though, you will spend more time designing than fabricating.

http://home.tir.com/~steveher/lt4.html

Broken link. [ October 24, 2001: Message edited by: Oltmann ]

quote: Originally posted by Omar: The only way I can see this happening is if there was some funky supercomplex organic dye that changed its absorption spectrum (color) with temperature [ October 19, 2001: Message edited by: Omar ] Ever heard of a mood ring? Anyhow, I know you can find thermotropic liquid crystal paint to do that. http://www.edmundscientific.com/Products/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=583 I would tend to agree that the temperatures involved are not sufficient to make anything actually glow. If such a material does exist it is probably toxic and extremely expensive (like the rare-earth phosphors in the monitor you are reading this off of!)

quote: Originally posted by 383 240z: I was talking about serious haet OXY-ACT baby!!! The Blue Tipped Wrench rules!!!! Keith I did the opposite. I poured about 2l of liquid nitrogen over the drum. As the drum shrank, it crunched whatever corrosion was holding it in place. Once the drum came back up to room temp. it slid right off. If that doesn't work, you could always try liquid helium (j/k)

BTW, I found that with images.google.com.

Please see this thread: http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=8&t=000083 If anyone has any more info, add it there.

You can get larger sheets from Edmunds Industrial Optics. A 5x8" sheet is $155. A bit more expensive per sq. in. but it will do the big guages. More info here. http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=1393

quote: Originally posted by lonehdrider: I'm not sure where engine paint color effecting engine temperature got its start, I've seen it mentioned in some websites and for the life of me can't see how it would matter if the hood is on the car. In the dark (under the hood) neither Orange or Black are going to show any difference heat wise. Maybe if the hood was off the car and you drove around in the sun, sure black would absorb more heat whereas a lighter color would reflect the suns heat away... Regards, Lone Looks like someone has forgotten their quantum theory. The color of an object does affect it's emissivity, although texture is generally much more important. Relative to the theoretical perfect radiator (aka a black body) these paints have the following emissivity: Black 0.96 Blue 0.94 Green 0.92 Red 0.91 White 0.90 These are all very high though. For instance polished Al has an emissivity of .09 (==sucky.) I don't know how much of a difference this will make in engine temperature, however if the manufacturers use it then I'm sure it has some impact.

If this site hasn't been posted before. For the Love of LEDs You should be able to get your fill of photons.

I'm also interested in this product. I would prefer the newer calipers. There must be more people interested in this idea out there, although I don't know why they aren't posting?

quote: Originally posted by Jeff Rimmer: I was wondering if anyone out here could help decifer what these two letters on my VIN signify, as I don't know. Here is the VIN: GHLS-060657 I understand that the G signifies 2+2, and the S being 280? but what about the H and the L? Any ideas? Thanks JR H indicates the engine type (L28E) and L indicates left hand drive. The Victoria-British Catalog has a section about this, which is where I'm getting my info from.

Dan, you're right, but I think people are usually talking about turbo's with carbs when they use those terms. Zspeed also said in his other post that he was talking about using SU's.

quote: Originally posted by Duende: Thanks so much for all of your advice. I have not purchased the car yet. I will do that this Friday. The car has a brand new 350 and is not smog legal yet but the good thing is that the engine is a 1974. I'm so gladd I found this site! Thanks again! As you may know, the seller is responsible for making sure the car is smog legal. So you have three options. 1. The seller gets the car inspected and approved before you buy it. 2. You purchase the car with a salvage title and you take care of getting it legal. 3. You buy the car as-is, and then if it doesn't pass the smog inspection you can sue the seller for the cost of the repairs. I don't recommend 3. If you pick 2, pay very little. I recommend you keep looking, unless you get a deal.

I don't think there is anyone currently reading this board who has such a setup. There was a guy with the user name "Dr. Graham" who had it, if you search for his name in the archives you will find his email address. He was talking about ditching it for a V8. I don't think you'll find many people who have good things to say about blowthrough/drawthrough turbo setups.

Q: When will my post-1974 model year vehicle become exempt from Smog Check? A: 1974 and subsequent model year vehicles will be exempt from Smog Check when they turn 30 years old. Under current law, a 1974 model year vehicle will be exempt in 2003, a 1975 in 2004, etc. http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/smogweb/GenInfo%5COtherInfo%5CFrequently_Asked_Questions_Part_1.htm

DavyZ gave a good description. JTR has a good one too at http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Chevrolet_S-10_V-8_Smog.html It isn't that difficult, but when your car turns 30 it will become exempt from inspection. If you take three years to do the conversion, you won't have to worry about it

That's a (blurry) pic of an empty z32 engine bay. There is the TT engine ready to be put in. I think they mounted the engine pretty high to squeeze those twin-turbos+plumbing in. You should be able to drop the v8 down a bit.

I suspect your laws are similiar to California laws, because the EPA uses a standard that is similiar. I could be completely wrong regarding the laws of your state, so take my advice with a grain of salt. In California an engine swap must: 1. Use an engine from a newer model vehicle. 2. Use an engine from a vehicle of the same class. 3. Maintain all emmissions equipment present on the donor vehicle. They don't make you pass the standard for the newer engine, but if you performed a legal swap it wouldn't be a problem if you had to. You won't be able use the waiver, because you have to fail the sniffer test twice. They won't let you take the sniffer test because you won't pass visual inspection! The best way to do an engine swap on vehicles that get tangled in these smog laws is to buy a wrecked car w/ a good engine or buy the complete drivetrain (everything!) from a wrecker and put it all in. GL.