Oltmann

Here is the page Jeromio was talking about. It is from a French company called "Haweka." If you search for thier name you'll get a bunch of info. http://www.bmw-m.net/Gallery/haweka.htm

IMO we are all here to help eachother find better solutions to problems that have already been solved. Unfortunately, the people who were happy with the original solution might not be happy with you! Witness all the anti-V8 guys on other sites. *ahem* You do need to say what you think is wrong with the current solutions in order to have a useful discussion, but there is always more than one way to say something. Also, when you are reading something, it is better not to ascribe to malice that which could simply be a lack of tact. If ZCarKid really thought everyone's exhaust system sucked, he probably wouldn't have come here for help.

The coefficient of drag is 0.31 or 0.32, that is pretty average for modern cars. Great compared to a first-gen. It's also got alot more crash protection Good luck.

Try this site out: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

quote: Originally posted by Danno74Z: BlueovalZ, Eight holes! What did they think the wheels were going on! I don't know of any vehicle that has eight holes except possibly a very BIG truck. What car did you eventually put them on? They probably had both 4x100mm and 4x4.5" bolt patterns drilled into them. Alot of companies do this.

quote: Originally posted by simon-zbuild: Has anyone tried or got any opinions about the 4 electrode plugs? I believe the 4 electrode plugs are used for mileage reasons, and aren't good for performance. You also can't gap them.

Sorry, I misread your post. Personally I wouldn't listed to the saleperson. He will just tell you whatever his inventory system says, and for these old Datsuns it says "NO DATA."

I think you have it reversed, +20mm will place the wheels further in. -20 would probably be fine though. http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/offset.htm

I would say that a built up L28ET will add about 150lbs to the front of your car with about a 1/3 of that weight going in front of the wheels. You would at least need new springs to get the ride height right and you would probably upset the handling in general. This swap is not recommended. The sr20det is the way to go for your car. I don't think you can get a powerful engine into a 240sx for less than $4-5k.

quote: Originally posted by Mikelly: Just looked in my TigerDirect catelog and they have some pentium 166MMX notebooks for cheap...$499 with extras... Not the deal Jim got but close to my pain level... I might have to go to my local Walmart and complain and get the deal Jim got... Check out this forum for leads on laptops and other deals on computer/consumer electronics stuff. Keep your BS detector on though. http://forums.anandtech.com/categories.cfm?catid=40

quote: Originally posted by John Scott: The sbc can be had in so many different performance and price levels. JS Understood. I would like to have EFI, because I want a daily driver, and I thought V6 would be an easier way to get there.

I see some of these issues have been discussed before on this forum, I just had to search back a year. Too bad it doesn't mount the same as the sbc. :/

I have been researching the V8 swap for some time now, and I have sort of decided I won't be in a position (economically) to do it the way I want to for a couple years. In the meantime I want to get the Z running and ditch my daily driver. I'm thinking the 200hp 3.8 is a sensible (if I can use that word on this site) choice. Does this engine bolt to the JTR mounts? How much should the complete drivetrain cost from a wreckers? What do you people think, any caveats?

quote: Originally posted by Kevin Shasteen: Correct me guys if I'm wrong but I believe that all of GM's current (1955-to now) V8 Over head Valves V8's have had a firing order of: 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2. That's just from memory but I believe that is correct. The cyl's on the driver's side are the odd #'; 1,3,5,7 while the passenger's side are the even #'s: 2,4,6,8. I believe that is what you were looking for. Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner) Kevin, You are correct about the firing order. One small block has a different order though, the LS1 which is 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3.

quote: Originally posted by Andrew Bayley: Hmmm... This seems like it would work best on smaller motors ( >= 2.0L ). The thing I Their site says engines over 5l will not make any gains. Also read this from their site: "Take your car to a dyno test in your area. Make dyno runs with and without the e-RAM activated, and take a picture of how it was installed. Mail the e-RAM back to us with the picture, a copy of your receipt, and a clear copy of your dyno comparison results (signed as witnessed by the technician running the dyno). If the dyno shows the e-RAM does not increase horsepower in your engine by an average of at least 4% of its previous horsepower throughout the 3000 to 6000 rpm range, and we conclude from the picture that you have installed the unit correctly, we will give you a full refund* and even pay for 1/2 your dyno fee! (up to a maximum of $50 reimbersement)" Good friggin' luck if it doesn't work!

Stony, the car looks great. I'm curious though, what did you do to keep it from rusting in transit? What are you going to do to keep it from rusting in Alaska? I'd hate to see such a unique car eaten up like so many other Z's.

quote: Originally posted by jeromio: Damn. Double triple damn. I just looked in that crappy Haynes manual. They have a picture illustrating the way to remove the crankshaft pully: "Use 2 prybars". B] That's bullshit. There is nothing to pry against! You can either pry against the bottom timing cover which will bend every time, or you can pry against the oil pan and if you damage that you have to pull the engine! You KNOW he did it wrong because he damaged the cover, maybe there is a way to pry it off but he did not use it. You need to talk to the someone from their insurance company like Kevin said. It is in the dealerships interest to scare you away, it is in the insurers interest to keep you from litigating.

That sort of sounds like the air flow meter is going bad. Usually if the ECU goes bad it just dies, it won't go nutty like that. Unfortunately the way to test both items is "replace with known good unit." You could try asking the people on z31.com. The first-gen 300ZX has the same engine.

quote: Originally posted by jeromio: Boy is that ever a wierd comment. No, wierd is saying that an engine has got to be way better simply because it is high-tech. In this case high-tech brings alot of problems along with the benefits. I think the problems come from Toyota improperly applying a "fancy" new head to an old block. Maybe this is simplistic and maybe I'm just wrong. I don't think I'm wrong in thinking the 7M is inappropriate for a swap. Oltmann btw, sorry if I haven't contributed much to this thread.

They have a web site http://www.swayaway.com/ but it doesn't have much info. They don't even mention making bars for Zs, hmm.

quote: Originally posted by jeromio: This is a modern, 24valve, cross-flow, 3.0 liter engine. It's gotta be way better than the 40 or so year old datsun/benz 6. Umm, sorry to break it to you, but the M-series engines first appeared in the 1964 Toyota 2000 GT. It is an old block with a fancy head slapped on. This engine has problems too, as Morgan mentioned. If you want 300hp, you'll probably be happier with the L28. You can drop it in for very little, and then do incremental upgrades over time. If you want 450hp, you'll probably be happier with a V8.

and another of the engine bay at http://www.time-to-profit.com/3.8-2.jpg and http://www.time-to-profit.com/280_turbo.jpg These are from the 2000 Buick Nationals in Bowling Green, KY. 200R4 trans R200 Some type of motorcycle slick on stock rims If you can't read the windshield, he is running 11.3. That's all I know, but I think my uncle knows him (that's who I got the pics from) if you have questions I could try to get contact info. He's in the Kansas City area IIRC. [This message has been edited by Oltmann (edited December 11, 2000).] [This message has been edited by Oltmann (edited December 11, 2000).]

I found an article on fuel injection systems specifically related to conversion from carbs. http://hometown.aol.com/dvandrews/ems.htm The guys also has some other good tech articles on his site.

How about a front belly pan. Most new cars have something like this, so I assume it could be functional. I don't know much about aerodynamics but I know these cars can use help in any area. It would be relatively simple to mold and you design it in sections so it would be easy to ship. Also, if it went under the engine compartment it would look pretty trick when you pop the hood. Anyhow, this sounds like a good idea right now, but I have insomnia so I could be completely delusional.

quote: Originally posted by jeromio: If cast iron is high in carbon, why isn't it called cast steel? By definition, steel is an alloy of iron and carbon. You've got it reversed. Steel is actually iron that has been processed to remove some of the carbon. So cast iron is higher carbon (comes out of the ground that way,) it isn't considered an alloy though because carbon is not a metal.