Oltmann

A couple weeks ago I got the bright idea to mix toluene with paint using a mouth pipette. Unfortunately the stuff has such low mass that I sucked up half a mouthfull in the blink of an eye. It left me bent over coughing and wondering if it whitens teeth.

zrl, please read this page before you post anything further on this subject. http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/casmog.html#legalzc It was written by someone who was once confused like you.

Bob, I agree in principal with your point, but a company called motorex has been importing DOT/EPA certified Skylines for a couple years now. I believe they modify the engines and list themselves as the manufacturer, so this doesn't mean a Motorex RB26DETT == Nissan RB26DETT. However, if you were to obtain a motor through them, maybe you could make it legal? Anyhow, if it is possible to do this legally it is probably only a little more difficult than sawing your arm off with a pen knife.

I doubt it, T1 Vipers turn much faster times than ITS Z's on road courses. If you are talking about a Z with better power/weight than a Viper like many of the cars here, then it would be much closer depending on the track. John Coffee has show that you can beat them with less power if you set up the suspension right. I still think the Viper would outhandle the Z you described though.

The most desirable SBC for those who want to rev is a destroked 400; typically to 377 using a 350 crank. For a 350 block you will have to step down to 327 or 302. You will have to change the crank to change to stroke, you will probably have to change the whole rotating assembly, but the crank determines the stroke.

S2000 Engine parts Check out #3--talk about a girdle!

The Honda S2000 has a avg. max piston speed of 4965 fpm. I think it uses a standard 30 oil. I wish I knew how they did this.

Contact motorex http://www.skylinegtr.com/ because in general the answer with Japan-only engines is no, but this company went to the trouble of getting the engine certified in CA. You'd probably have to go through them though, you couldn't just get a half-cut through an importer like others have done.

Tim is correct. The function of the second O2s is to verify that the cats are working properly, if you install them on a car that doesn't have cats then the PCM will turn on the check engine light. edit: Also, as grpix1 stated, there are probably ways to sneak around this and get the sticker. I doubt the inspector would go to the trouble of running a checksum on your PCMs ROM for instance. I was talking about strict compliance with the law, because most of us who are willing to skirt the law are simply skipping the whole process.

I looked into this quite a bit because I have a 96 LT1, and my conclusion was that it was impossible to do a smog legal swap because: - You are NOT required use cats on a chassis that didn't come with them because it is too dangerous. - Without cats the after-cat O2 sensors will cause the PCM to throw a code. - There is no legal way to eliminate the codes. I know you can reprogram the PCM or use O2 simulators, BUT both of these things are not legal. If you used the cats themselves though, I think you would be ok. Just be careful that they won't set your car on fire.

One thing I've wonder about; my floor pans are in good shape rust-wise, however the car has been jacked up by the pans before and they are bent. Did you have to deal with this problem?

That depends, do you want blue or red? You may find some answers here: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo1.htm

http://www.zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/Weights.html Terry Oxandale's car is pretty light; I don't know what you mean by "comparable L6" though. His car is pretty incomparable to any other.

The correct notation for microfarad is a lower-case Greek m followed by an "f," but I have seen uf, mf, MF, and MFD. It all means microfarad. One of the physicists where I work insisted that MFD was megafarad. That day I learned that affirmative action has no place in the hard sciences.

World's fastest coffin.

Yep, that is an electrolytic capacitor. If it is blown, then there is probably no remanent charge in it, but you should still short the leads before you handle it. If you want to replace it, you need to figure out the capacitance in microfarads (for a capacitor this size, I would guess about 10000uf) and the rated voltage. Then search on those parameters at one of the major electronics parts vendors (digikey.com, newark.com, mouser.com.) Often with electronics the part that is visibly damaged is not the only thing that is broken, so it may be best to leave this to the professionals.

Well, Tim, you beat me to it, but only because you didn't bother to look up Pete's site. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/structuralmods.htm

It can be done, in fact it is becoming on of the most popular swaps for a Z. If you put "LT1" in the the search function, I'm sure you will find lots more info. Lots.

I've never shopped for the best price, but spintech has them.

As a 96 owner, I'll say that the 96/97 isn't that much harder to do. It used to be impossible to get the OBDII ECU reprogrammed, but software has become available to do this recently. You don't have to mess around with O2 sensor simulators anymore. Just budget $75 more for programming and your set. pcmforless.com is a decent place to get it programmed, but if you look on the camaro boards you can find people who will do it cheaper. I decided to simply swap to OBDI, which cost me less than $200 and the guy programmed the ECU for me. I still agree that 95 is the easiest year, but I wouldn't (and didn't) turn my nose up at a low-mile 96/97.

I doubt you will be able to use that PROM. The enrichment and ignition advance tables are stored in that bugger, and I'd bet they are quite different for a supercharged motor. The upside is that it will probably run on your motor, it just won't make good power until tuned.

I'm bringing up this old thread to note that on my 71, Ron's design will not work as is. The differential belt bracket is apparently much narrower than it was in later years, and the forward most threaded hole falls roughly in the middle of the bracket.My car originally had the diff. that sat an inch forward, so I believe this is the reason for the difference. I plan to weld nuts in the forward locations used in later years, and I will update this thread again once I've finished.

Thanks, that's my new wallpaper.

I think the air dam was made for a MKIV Supra and has been (badly) modified to fit a ZX. I agree that this is rice. It looks nice in the picture, but it's a hack job.

A "bolt-ons" L24 without engine work or power adders typically doesn't make more than 150hp and the flywheel. Anyone who would claim 300hp is either an incredible liar, or there is alot more to the car than bolt-ons.