B. Whisky

Since your getting a new one, open up your current tps by grinding off the two rivets on the back. Looking inside should give you a good idea of whats going on in there. It's a pretty simple device, and I'm inclined to say it shouldn't just go bad like a sensor giving resistance values to the ecu. In my case, I'm certain it broke from me trying to adjust it out of its range of movement, before I went and referenced the fsm and found the faulty wire.

I can't speak to the applicability of my experience to the po's, as I haven't coverted to the z31 efi yet, but my zxt would bog out at ~4k, and backfire through the intake. After testing at the ecu plug the first issue I encountered was the tps. Turned out I had an intermittent open circuit, which turned out to be an extremely corroded wire in the boot at the connector of the tps itself. It was broken completely and just barely making contact. Addressing that revealed the tps to be mechanically damaged inside, so it wouldn't stay locked to the throttle butterfly. Swap another in, adjusted, and i was good to go. As for the chts, the way I have my car set up with all the idle speed controls removed, my engine floods out if that connection is lost. If I cycle the ignition of and on, I can hear my injectors click once, and my oil smells like gas if I try that enough times. I just skimmed through this thread, but if the backfiring you experience is through the intake, I want to say lean towards the tps, or rather, check that circuit. Hope this helps.

I would say save the rods and crank if they check out and toss the block. Never know when they'll come into play. I'm running a rebuilt f54 with rods and crank from an l26. Out of the three cranks I have, that one was by far in the best shape. And it was the one I've been sitting on the longest.

Everything i see looks to be oem (cant be sure on rod bolts from the shots). Assuming that bore's intact (doubtful) as well as the crank journals, you still have a useable block, minus one piston and possibly the rod.

She looks good, congrats!

Got an f54 block, i'm all the way in pa though. Completely disassembled. Not looking for much, gotta clear space and reassess my shop layout.

When you spend 500 bills on the car, and +2000.00 combined getting it out of impound, on 3 occasions. When a friend tells you its not worth it, and the guy at the impound tells you upon your paying him how many people kept trying to buy the car. When you use the hole you punched out in the floor behind your seat to jettison wrappers on the highway, or drop banana peels in front of your friends like Mario kart. When the older puerto rican dudes around town keep making offers even though you've repeatedly turned them down. When your wheel cylinders leak and you crimp the line to the rear so you can get to class. When snow isnt quite enough incentive not to drive it. When you buy a rusty ass 195k zxt for the drivetrain alone, just to spin a bearing, then decide to invest who knows how much into it because daily driving it somehow seems more logical than cutting your losses. When you have at least one rock auto magnet for EVERY pay stub since buying your daily project. When that fender exit exhaust on that daily seems like such a swell idea, and you make it with scrap laying around your shop. When you refuse to pay those tickets you racked up last year until you get the thing on the road. When your dogs, that loved riding in the supra, wont get near your dirty d because that fender exit exhaust scares them. When you get bored at car meets because noone there has anything even remotely as appealing as that rusted pile in your garage. When you set up a lil fort in that unused area at work so you can hide and lurk this forum away from prying eyes. When you run your buddies crx, and he gets a windshield full of that plastic trim between the door and quarter window. When you figure out how to work around the popoff valve, and find out just how much boost that auto was willing to take.

I have a 5speed from a n/a zx, a ka, and a z31 (poss. Turbo, need to find out). Make an offer, located in pa.

Got a dash from an early 260. Dont know if that helps, also, in philly, pa. Make an offer if interested, not looking for much.

Good lord i need this in my life!

Hahahahahaha! You crazy kids! I was lurking all weekend, at the strip club on friday (i get a lil bored lately with the same game) between games of beer pong on sat, at our annual philly supra meet on sunday, and at the shop wrenching on Monday. Unfortunately, i never had any incentive to check the non tech boards, that is, until 5 minutes ago when i stumbled on a link posted by an alleged zombie... I love HybridZ

I lurk this site to learn from you people! I dont take unwarranted breaks from work to watch a friggin soap opera, so if you guys could cut the crap, I'm sure the OP would benefit, as would I. HowlerMonkey, If the OP decides on Tony's route, does that REALLY affect you in any way? Or Tony, vice versa? No. As far as the pick-a-parts are concerned, Its not hard to get away with the stuff that Tony suggests. Factor in the weight advantage, and even if it costs $150 for the tripod graft its still an attractive option. As for the r200, unless it's an lsd its just an increase in weight thats just waiting to burn a few spider gears on a turbo l-series. That being said, if OP decides on a putting down hella torque, yea, r200 (lsd or welded only) it is. I tend to side with tony on this, but that isnt meant to detract from howlermonkey in anyway. I've done alot of reading, and both of you seem to bring alot to the table. Anyway, good luck to the OP, it goes without saying that's a nice ride you got there. Gotta get off the phone and back to work

The two by the round plug are water temp, one to the ecu and one for the gauge. Not sure about the afm plug, i'm not by my car to verify, but check the plug for a pin in the empty spot. It might have been the wire to the air temp sensor that was cut. The tps on the turbo engine has only two wires, the n/a gets three.

I would leave the afm until you've established that the ecu is reading critical sensors properly. J/s

Hi. I recently resolved this same issue on my zxt. For a while I could only stop the popping under applied throttle by enriching the fuel mix so much that u could light the tailpipe on fire when cold (no idle speed controls). Maybe two weeks ago, I referred to the fsm i had printed out last year, and started testing sensors at the ecu harness, starting with the tps, which immediately showed me an open circuit between the ecu and that sensor. Moving the tps around revealed the break to be at the sensor, as the multimeter would beep intermittently, and upon further inspection i discovered one of the two wires had broken right at the pin inside the boot. I spliced in a plug from a spare n/a harness and leaned out the afm, and it drove perfect for a whole lap around the shop, then the problem came back, albeit less severely. Turns out the tps itself had a broken piece of plastic inside that kept it tied to throttle position. Threw on the tps from the n/a harness and haven't had an issue since. Hope this helps.

Signing in. Heres mine; http://m1081.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/rb30zk/548434_442476735769747_100000222721687_1978298_613218921_n.jpg.html?o=8&newest=1 http://m1081.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/rb30zk/548434_442476735769747_100000222721687_1978298_613218921_n.jpg.html?o=8&newest=1 http://m1081.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/rb30zk/381737_127650600681151_100003086344609_142345_779058222_n.jpg.html?o=5&newest=1

On mine, i left the shield on, used a long extension (one that can reach from the manifold mounting surface to the empty space between the intake manifold and strut tower, i happened to use a combination of shorter ones), and carefully felt out each bolt. After the first time it was much easier, and just in case i removed the heat shield and only used the two outermost accessible bolts to reattach it, before coming across some header wrap and leaving it off altogether. Rtv on the unused bolt holes to counter rattling.

I believe i have a set lying around, without the lines, gotta double check when i get back to the shop. Might also have a set with, and that center add-on with 280zx on it. 19134 is where i am.

Well, the 195k+ miles probably contributed. At first it only knocked when i started it after at least an hour or so of inactivity, leading me to suspect extensive wear on the bearings. When i first bought it the po had it sitting out for years and it had no oil register on the dipstick, but i never ran it dry. I did notice that it didnt leak much at all, leading me to suspect poor maintenance (a few other things were pointing me in that direction as well...). It only recently started knocking with oil pressure. I put less than 10 baby shifted miles on it since. Now i need to locate a check ball as well...

I just pulled my engine for basically the same thing, it knocks on a dry start for 2-3 seconds while it builds pressure. Then it knocked up around 3k. But today i removed the oil filter and noticed there was only a spring where i'm pretty sure there should have been a ball.

Nice i was just thinking about the same thing as i looked at mine. I got a pair that i've been sitting on for a while and didn't know how to figure which they were without the rotor to mock up.

I need these for my s30. The rear wheel cylinders are shot, and i have an s130 thats about to get parted out, so these are the only things keeping me from getting the s30 on the road. Will pay or trade. Got an entire s130's worth of parts, minus rear calipers. Located in phila, pa, 19134 Thanks, G

I have two white early fender. In Philadelphia.

I most definitely would.