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Are you looking for the side marker lights? I think I have a few somewhere.

I'm sorry to hear it. I'll keep an eye out as I go to MA every now and then. good luck, I hope you find it. My house was broken into in Manchester NH this past weekend as well. I know it's a horrible feeling getting things stolen that have sentimental value.

I don't know if its the same in CA but over here in NH you can call and have a cop come to your residence and do the VIN Verification. I did this for my friends motorcycle and was able to get the registration along with the bill of sale.

I also have a 75 280z steering wheel

The other day I put new brass bushings in my shifter. part numbers 38375 or 38374 have the bushing you need from Autozone or Advance Auto. Shifts nicely now and it's only like 7 dollars.

You're definitely in the wrong thread

I still have those rear struts with LCA's if those will work. You would need pads, drums, and a hardware kit to finish the brakes though. let me know if you're interested. I'd take $60 for them and they're in my garage in Manchester.

Thank you that helps me a lot. One question: where could I find out how to bypass the solenoid for vacuum advance? I have a general idea of how it works from looking at the owners manual but I couldn't find anything online about it. Zentech- I checked my messages and didn't find it so I sent you one instead.

Like the title says, I'm trying to get the parts to finish this transmission to put into my '75 280z. I'm not entirely sure what year it came out of but it looks to be from a later 280z. If anyone has any info on how to identify it that would be great. As far as I can tell all I need are the shifter components and clutch fork/TO Bearing components. Also, if anyone could tell me if I can use any of the parts from my stock 4 speed I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks Bell Housing Number Inside Bell Housing

I have but the FSM I have is for a 280z with Air Conditioning which i don't have. All the levers in the diagram don't seem to correspond with anything I have.

Hey Jesse, I have that same cable but that one leads to a fresh air vent leading to inside the front fender. the cable I'm still questioning goes from the blower motor housing to the center console behind the heat and air controls. just below the golf ball in the picture above you can kind of make out the black cable attached with a rusty clip. Metty, I left my front shocks at my friends house to scrap and I'm fairly certain he would have gotten rid of them by now unfortunately. Thanks for the compliments!

I got new seats!! and a blower motor with a fan that isn't shattered in pieces! The cable that opens and closes the flap that lets air into the blower motor is connect to a lever that doesn't do anything. I tried removing a bunch of stuff to see if it connects to the center console controls but my attempts failed at providing anything useful. If anyone has any info on which lever it's supposed to connect to please let me know. Until then I'm using this golf ball to keep the flap open so I can get some fresh air. Update on the break down issue: I have broken down a grand total of 4 times, 5 if you count me leaving the lights on in a parking lot. The first three times the car stalled and I had no power at all. Engine would not even turn over. I would get out of the car and replace the fuel filter and the car would start right up again. HOWEVER, the last time it happened I replaced the filter and went to go start the car and nothing happened again. Went around checking a few things and went back to start it and she started up again. This is leading me to believe it isn't actually the fuel filter getting clogged. It should be noted this only has happened on the highway on fairly hot days ( first time was on a main road on a very hot day.) since the last time I broke down I've driven around town A LOT and 3 hours on the highway on cool nights with absolutely no issue. We'll see what happens I guess. More Updates to come!!!

I'd be interested in seeing the process used to make spoilers for the S30. The one shown is pretty cool though, but I don't think I'll ever have a need for a wing that big haha.

Yep

Yeah that would be great. I Should be in that area sometime in the next 2 weeks. PM sent.

Clean Indeed! I like the exhaust you have.

I used Kia Sportage door seals on mine. $30 for both sides at a junk yard. You could probably get them for less somewhere else but they fit perfectly so 30 bucks ain't bad.

I have a grand total of $1.58 in my paypal account at the moment and I can't really afford to put much more in it. Dave, If shipping somehow ends up being around $10- 15 I might be able to swing that but we'd have to wait a few days for the funds to transfer. If I sell anything and get some extra cash I'll let you guys know. Thanks!

What product are you using to mold the rubber parts? I'm familiar with resin molding and other techniques, just haven't seen black rubber like that before. Everything looks Great!!!

Yeah, I had a bit extra so I probably could have done the trans tunnel as well. But the trans tunnel carpet and carpet behind the seat are still in good shape aside from some severe sun fading so I don't mind dealing with that for a while. I've been looking into tank cleaning. I can't really afford ANY of the options at the moment. My Thesis project for school is stealing all my money! Once school finishes on the 9th I'm going to drop the tank anyway and try and get all the chunks out at least. And while the tank is out I can put the proper bumper brackets on and clean up all the holes in the back end. Zinc plating would be cool. I'm not sure if it would actually coat the inside though or just stop after it hits the outside. Could be interesting to find out though.

I went for a drive Yesterday and broke down. I pulled into someones driveway and changed that filter and it was indeed filled with tons of rust. She started up after that so hopefully that was the only issue. I'm definitely dropping the gas tank sometime in the next few weeks to clean it out. I have a list of things to do while the tank is out anyway so I'll take care of it all. I also went to home depot and got a 6' x 8' piece of carpet and carpet insulation. I cut all the pieces I needed for the driver and passenger floor as well as the rear hatch floor. I'm very happy with how it came out and it only cost like $55! Sorry for the poor image quality, managed to forget my camera and it was getting pretty dark by the time I finished.

The main reason I thought it was the fuel pump was because the problem only starts after like 15-20 minutes of driving and progressively gets worse. My old pump would also start quiet and after returning from 30+min. drives it would be buzzing really loud. I've heard if the fuel heats up upon returning to the gas tank the hot gas can cause the fuel pump to have issues/buzz. I don't have my AC running yet and my feet get very warm while driving so I imagine the fuel gets pretty hot after a while.

I haven't checked the fuel pressure. I'm assuming you just put a gauge inline just before the rail? I have an in-line fuel filter just before the fuel pump. There are a few chunks of rust in it but it doesn't apear to be clogged. I'm going to replace it soon anyway. Is it possible that the gas tank itself could be clogged? I've been thinking about dropping the gas tank soon so I can see what condition the inside is like. As far as the paint goes...I was going to paint it with just cans of green primer but when I told my dad I was going to do that he said he wouldn't allow it and that it should be done right. So someday when I finish the body properly he said he would pay for real paint!

I got new Battery cables on mine and the difference was pretty big. Definitely worth trying if your cables are old. I had an issue where my battery wasn't charging and the engine would die after a couple minutes without touching anything. I got new cables, a new alternator, and replaced a fusible link. Then fully charged the battery and so far I haven't had another issue.

So I got her registered and inspected. I think I drove around 500 miles so far. Had to replace the clutch slave cylinder as well. It gave out on me while I was parking in the driveway luckily. And I even had the new part lying around. How convenient! I did a valve adjustment a few weeks ago and everything seemed fine at first. I started an hour drive home and about half way through she started to sputter and almost stall under a strong load so I kept steady for a little while. Soon after, any acceleration was bogging the engine down immensely. Then it got to the point where accelerating going down hill was a huge issue so I had to pull over on the highway. I couldn't figure it out so I waited a while and was able to limp home. Apparently I adjusted the valves to the wrong specs and so I did it a second time to the proper gap and all seemed well again... until I went for a test drive and the same thing happened on the way back. I noticed my fuel pump is usually very quiet upon first start up and by the time I get to where I'm going it's buzzing up a loud storm. I'm thinking the pump is on its way out and the warm fuel that is going through it after it warms up is slowly killing it. I have a new pump and transmission fluid delivered and ready up at my house and I also took the throttle body and AFM off and cleaned them. I also sorted out my throttle linkage a bit so ALL those things are getting worked on and put back into the car on Friday. I'll be picking up better 240z bumpers as well. So In theory I should have a smooth, non throttle sticking, running car that looks a bit better! And if not then I have some other problem that I probably don't want to deal with.