jt1

I think the Supreme Court is wrong on this one. Siezing private property for government use is one thing, but taking your property for a private use is just plain wrong. It opens the door for way to many crooked political deals. John

That's going to be Nice! You will be amazed how having some extra space helps out. BUT: You must beware the deadly "Junk expands to fill all available space" virus!!!!! John

Does it have two shift buttons or one 3 position button? If it has four lines it's probably off a 13 speed roadranger. Not sure what you could use it for, maybe some airshocks? John

If you buy the JTR adapter you can use the datsun temp sender so the guage works just like it always has. The datsun sender is available from NAPA if you can't find it from Nissan. John

They are a little long. I cut mine off so I had just over a full nut of thread engagement. I wound up cutting about 3/4" off the front and 3/8" off the back. The rears have to be longer because of the thickness of the drum or rear rotor. ....must reduce rotating weight...... John

I used the ARP studs for the late model F bodies. They are 12 x 1.5, so you have to buy new nuts, but the knurl diameter is perfect for the hubs. John

34 would be razor thin IMO, I'd go with 35. 32 slope, 1.7 on the ridges, so 33.7 plus waste. 6:1 is super flat. Nobody around here goes less than 4:1, and most are 3:1. Are you sure that's correct? John

If anyone in the Dallas area is willing to check out a car for me, I'm willing to send you and yours out to a nice dinner. Nothing really extensive, just a 30 min inspection of the paint, interior, and underhood. It's at Courtesy Nissan. John

4ooo should do it. Just make sure the dist has advanced all it's going to, vac advance unhooked and plugged, if you have one. John

Congratulations John! Enjoy yourself, Hawai's a beautiful place to vacation, only the long flight from NC sucks. John

Check your total timing too, Joe, i.e. how much the timing is with all the advance in. You don't want over 35 or 36 deg total, maybe a little less with that much compression. I would probably start at 32 total and if I didn't hear or see any signs of detonation go up a couple of deg at a time to 35 or 36. John

I agree with Mike. Before you worry about competitive racing, do some HPDE events, commonly called track days. You will learn a TON...about your car, and your driving skills, and how to improve both. A good link: http://www.trackschedule.com/index.html John

If you can't hear it, looking at the plugs are the only way I know. Little black specs on the porcelain are the first sign, little specs of aluminum when it's getting pretty bad. Some good plug reading tech: http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/reading-spark-plugs.html Be sure and check out the links at the bottom of the page. John

It might be an improvement if they bolt right on in place of the existing rotors, without changing the caliper mounts, hats, etc. If you can maintain desired brake balance and not fade them, 4# per wheel would be noticeable IMO. When I went to wheels that were about the same amount lighter, I could tell a difference under braking and accelerating. Somewhere I've read that losing 1# rotating mass is roughly equivalent to losing 4# sprung mass. Probably worth a try. John

These are for dirt track cars, to clear out mud packing up in front of the calipers. They may work OK on the rear, since most Z's seem to have too much rear brake anyway, but I think the only benefits will be reduced weight, not any increase in performance. Definitely not for the front IMO. John

My 73 had retractable shoulder belts before I switched to the 5 points; you probably just need the belts. 5 points really aren't a good idea for street use. They're enough trouble you will get out of the habit of wearing them, and in a roll over situation may be more dangerous than the stock belts because they won't let you drop down if the top collapses, and unless you have a bolt in roll bar there's not a good place to attach the 5 points. John

Pretty impressive. Those flow results are comparable to my 195 Canfields, for about half the price of what I've got in mine. That's a wicked buildup they are using those on too. John

I'm lucky enough to have a auto parts store nearby that has a high $$$ flaring setup. I bought the lines, bent them myself, marked where I wanted the end to be, took them back and let them do the double flares. All were perfect with no leaks, and it made the metric/standard changeover easy. Check around, maybe somebody in your area does this. John

That describes my car's handling almost exactly; and I'm not running a rear bar. 250F/275R, Illumina's on 5, 23mm front bar. It amazes me how different setups can yield the same results. John

For the unenlightened (me) could you expand on that some more? John

Are there any blue places on the rocker balls? The oil hole might not have been lining up enough to oil the balls. Anyway, hope that fixes it. John

Does the fork appear to have any slack in it or is it tight? i.e., can you wiggle it forward and backward with your hand? Are their any adjustments on the slave cylinder or mount? John

Using a laser pointer was discussed in a thread a while back. I haven't tried it, but it sounds like a real spiffy idea. John

Don't just throw more parts at it. Find what caused the problem and correct it. First step would be a compression test or even better a leak down test. This will tell if you have bent any valves. If you do a compression test, look for 125 or so on all cylinders and uniform results. If you do a leak down, if it's leaking a good bit, listen to the intake and exhaust and see if you can hear any air escaping. If the cylinders that had the rocker problems have low compression or are blowing air, then the heads will have to come off and the valves repaired. Then put a set of light checking springs on one cyl and, one at a time, bring both valves to max lift. You can push down on the retainer and see if you have retainer/guide interference, and see if the slot in the rocker is free. You should have at least 0.100 free travel in both cases. This is a good time to check and make sure the pushrod isn't touching the head also. Bring the motor to 20 deg BTDC on the exhaust stroke. Push down on the valves and see how much clearance till the valve touches the piston. It's best to set up a dial indicator on the retainer so you know exactly how much, but you need at least 0.100, which is slightly less than 1/8" if you're on the cheap. Rotate the motor ahead about 5 deg and check each 5 deg till you get to 30 ATDC. The valves aren't closest at TDC, usually it's 10 - 20 degress ATDC when they are closest. If all this checks out, put the springs back on, bring the valve to max lift, and check for coil bind. You should be able to stick a 15-20 thou feeler guage between the coils at max lift. This is sorta a quick and dirty method; This is best done on a stand with a degree wheel and dial indicator, but you may not have that option. Vizard's book on setting up SBC valvetrains is excellent reading and much more in depth than what I've said here. Edit: If all this checks out OK, it's possible that the spring pressures are more than the rockers can handle, or the rockers may just be wore out. Valve springs should match you cam for seat pressure and pressure at max lift. John

Either you have interference somewhere- piston to valve, retainer to guide, rocker slot to stud, spring coil bind; or the rockers just can't handle the spring pressure, causing the pushrod to punch thru the rocker. John