jeffer949

Thabks for the info. I'm pretty sure I have a bit more with in my engine bay than a s30 does but yes I like the idea of making a cardboard mockup. Or maybe even 3d print one. Sorry to threadjjack. But thanks for the info

This is the one ive been looking at. https://www.siliconeintakes.com/front-mount-intercooler/water-to-air-intercoolers-p-213.html I believe i have room on the intake side right by the strut tower to sneak it in . I'm not doubting that its working well. And the fact that your not seeing those spikes is due to the thermal mass of the intercooler and antifreeze thats in it soaking up the heat from the charge temp. I guess my thinking is when is a colder IAT not a good thing? And what are you trying to avoid by having it run all the time? If its noisy and it bugs you. Sure, I can understand that. Its only pulling a few amps and I just dont see a downside other than maybe noise from the pump. With that said. Ill leave you alone to your decision. I dont run megasquirt currently but it seems that the simple way would be on off with a relay that you could tie into which ever data point you want. There isnt going to be one right answer for this. When autocrossing I would want it on 100% of the time. On your turbo setup. How do you like that turbo? When does boost come in? That turbo has been on my radar for the future. Im not looking for a hp monster any more. I want 300 ish hp to the wheels on my wagon. Its a cruiser not a drag car! What i want is power lower in the rpm range. I wont be getting the protunerz manifolds. while nice i know i just wont spend the money on them. But I may be convinced to go away from my 2nd hand cheapskate tendencies to get a nice turbo for once.

On your setup, What size is your core and how much hp are you making? What size of heat exchanger out front? Like I said i like the idea. Id have to position things differently as yours is right where my ac compressor is and thats not going anywhere!!!

Hey. Ive been toying with running something similar as I dont want to cut up the front of my car (84 maxima). My question is why dont you think it needs to be running all the time? Per your testing you state that it takes 10 seconds to bring the temp down from 100deg to 55 deg. So your driving along(in mexico) and the intake temp is 75-80 deg and a car pulls up and you have a competition on who is faster. Your intake temps are going to spike well above 100 deg right away then your pump kicks on and 10 seconds later(if not longer as i doubt that test was done under boost) your intake temps get under control. Any delay in the cooling will a hurt performance. My car currently has no intercooler and at a low 7psi my intake temps can go into the 160-170 deg in well under a second of boost. An intercooler isnt there to remove heat after the fact like a radiator. Its there to remove the heat before it goes into intake. sure use the MS to trigger a relay but id keep it on any time the car is running.

did you ever get any of that CFD done on the MN47?

Its just some steel tubing/piping. if your needing to replace one. measure the whole and add a few thousandths and find a pipe the right size to shove it in there. A metal lathe would help to get a perfect size but you can do sufficient job with a flat file.

Thought I'd offer this up on here before I throw it on ebay. 280zx turbo oil pan from a parts engine i had years ago. It's been beat on the bottom some but I pounded it out decently and It should work with out issue. Not sure what's it worth but these are getting rare. $150 obo plus sshipping. Flang is flat. Id use it but my car is front sump(maxima) I didn't paint and thought I'd leave that to your preference.

Hi. I'm looking for a bellhousing to do a 240sx manual swap on my 84 maxima wagon. It can be either a 4 or 5 speed. local to kansas would be nice but let me know what you have. Thanks.

Are you wanting just a head or block or engine? I have n42 block/head in my shed Ive been contemplating selling the head off. of. Im not local of course but could ship the head. Let me know what your looking for.

Its not the psi. Its The flow. The holset flows more air considerably than the stock turbo. Did you hold up the 2 and see the compressor size difference?I believe your out of injector or pump. Others have given you great advice. If you can't verify anything like fuel flow or pressure not much ww can do from afar.

I have one I might be willing to let go. Its on an engine I bought and haven't taken apart. Id need to take it apart and see what condition its in first though. Let me know if your interested.

What i forgot to say is that must mean IM OLD!! But my back slightly bulging a disc when I sneezed a few weeks ago should have informed me of that!

Its staying turbo. I have a n42 block and I'm likely going to throw some itm turbo pistons in it. So the question is which would you use for an unconventional turbo setup

HI. Im getting ready to build up a L28 for my Maxima wagon to replace the L24e that I've turboed. It will not be a high horsepower build. I have the stock MN47 head and I have a N42 head. What are your thoughts on which to use? I know the logical answer is sell both and buy a P90. But lets just say I'm odd and like working with what I have. I do have the ability to run E85. Looks like with the N42 I would have a compression of about 8.2:1 and the MN47 would be 8.97:1. Running Speeduino ECU with COP . just thought Id see what your thoughts are on here. The MN47 is currently running on the L24e engine with about 7 PSI of boost. But is pretty laggy due to the stock Torque converter and only being 2.4l pushing the Turbine housing that was used for the 2.8l.

Your 65!!!!!!!!!! Wait... That means 20 years ago when we hung out a few times you where my age... And I thought you where OLD then!!!

Ok. Quickly read through this. I see in your original post that you say you where running 10-12psi on the stock turbo. While i think you have something wrong those injectors will not allow you to run more than around 7psi i would assume. I ran the HE351cw turbo and L28et back in the day and I was maxing out 440 supra or rx7 injectors at the 17 psi range. And 17psi isnt a low number for that turbo and engine combo. 14psi netted me a 12.8 sec at 110mph 1/4 mile on street tires with a slipping clutch the whole way down the track.. My advice which comes from doing it the wrong way. Build up your fuel system and supporting mods first to handle almost anything you could throw at it and then start upping the boost. I blew my fair of head gaskets and pistons 20 years ago pushing the stock fuel injectors.... My current setup in my 84 maxima wagon is the stock l24e with a turbo manifold and stock turbo running stock boost. My fuel system is 550cc bosch injectors with aeromotive FPR, Flex fuel sensor, and a big enough pump to support more than the injectors can flow. I agree with the wiser more experienced posters who posted above. but i think your wasting your time and eventually money trying to keep the stock injectors. I remember when i switched to the Holset it took alot more fuel. it flows significantly more air than the stock turbo.

I was talking about the stock L28et turbo outlet flange. For the down pipe not the t3 manifold flange. But this is long done. I had a friend draw one up and had another friend cut it out on his cnc plasma.

Save your money. Unless your looking for over 400 hp you dont need forged pistons. I believe people have even gone over that mark. You do need to look at the rest of the pistons to make sure they are ok and if your bore is good. Just buy a new single piston or find a used one. Ive broken a few cylinder number 5 skirts in my day from being young and not wise on tunning. Hone the cylinders and put new rings in and let her eat. No need to go crazy on an engine that will likely never see the benefits from the expensive pistons. I may be wrong but with the questions you asked initially on if you could run the piston like this im guessing your new to engine building and are on a budget and wont be adding enough supporting mods to make really big power.

This means YOU!!!

JSM Message me!!! Well nvm I guess you cant.

have you done any tuning after you fixed your firing order? 2 cylinders not getting spark at the right time will dump alot of fuel into the exhaust and your wideband will read rich. How did you mount the crank angle sensor? That actually looks like an easy way to get a crank signal for any standalone also.

I dont have any source for them. I do have a direction you can start searching though. Years ago I remember a post from Tony D Talking about this manifold and saying that someone could likely make the bellows from a Mercedes Diesel work. Not bolt on but you could make them work. Now keep in mind that this post im thinking about was likely 10+ years ago but its at least a direction to go towards. Some search terms that will likely help is "euro Manifold" as thats what alot of people call it.

We are fine with you doing what your doing. Shoot I'm happy for you. Those components sound great. But why be so negative towards those of us who would rather spend money differently. I bought my whole car for 500 bucks. I am financially stable and I still try to build my car as cheap as possible. Its just what I like to do. This is a cool idea to get Auto trans control.

And the price just wen way up.