jeffer949

Did you have the flywheel balanced with the pressure plate? My L-series became way smoother once I did that. Not saying that is it but if your engine was fine and then you had your flywheel resurfaced and the vibration showed up. That is where I would start looking.

I did mine a few months ago and used my motorcycle crankshaft puller that I use to install crankshafts into engines. Doesn't work perfectly as the tube doesn't seat perfectly against the control arm and I had to use some square steel stock to space it away and rest on the tube of the control arm squarely. Just thought I would let people know that this tool does work and is available as there isn't a specific tool readily available. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/989/17166/Tusk-Crank-Puller-Installer-Tool

Like I said.. Going off of memory that is 6-7 years old lol. But I did have the problem of having to rev it to 3k. I wonder what I did to fix that or if I ever did. Guess I will find out once i finish my motor swap.

Mine had the same problem if i remember right. The reason was that the sensing wire was not telling the alt. that it needed charging. I think i had to wire a LED in parallel and that made it work correctly. Im going completely off of memory on something I did 7-8 years ago so keep that in mind.

Got a picture??

If your talking about the felt that is U shaped that fits in the window frame it is still available through MSA or Blackdragon.

I might have one. Let me look. I received one in a parts lot I bought a few months ago but I'm not sure what it came off of but it at least has the induction tubes. Do you have a picture what it should look like?

Just had a strange thought. Did you install the distributor? I once had a friend help me in stall my engine and he installed my distributor 180 deg off. It bolted up fine and was close enough to run but not well and wouldn't rev. Flipped it back and it ran perfect. The rotor still pointed in the correct position but the contact for each cylinders where not in the right spot. This was on a turbo distributor. Not sure what you have.

Aren't those the billows that go with bilisteins? They look like mine

Man your still at 160lbs. The past 10 years haven't been as good to me. Well actually the past 5 months haven't been good to me. I've gained 20 lbs in the past few months. I went from the best shape in my life last summer to the worst shape this summer. Ahhh life. Always thwarting my progression. And the head is looking amazing. If I ever make it down to Florida for a vacation I will have to stop by and visit. If only my company didn't use a distributor in Florida I could schedule a business trip to visit a dealer or two.

I have one that worked when I removed it years ago to install MS. I think its all there but I didnt run all sensors so im not sure if the connectors are there. Ill check tonight. And I'm in kansas. Where do you live?

I have a few. Let me get some pictures tonight for you.

I was completely kidding. Did I skip over this but did you ever mention what your friends RX7 runs? Just curious how close you are to your goal. And obviously amazing work.

Do you have the Turbo intake manifold? If so it could be that your pop off valve is opening and maybe is sticking open or something.

So its not for sale any more I take it then?

ppsshhhhh You only Ran a 10.8 on your first time out? I expected more...

Looks like the rear end has been tubbed or something. The radius on the stock wheel well is very gradual. looks like that one is straight and then a tight radius to another straight piece. Not the best pic but here http://i50.tinypic.com/3357exj.jpg

I'm in line if you choose to ship. Mine are good but I like having spares.

That would be great. Thanks. let me know how much you want for the spring and ill send you some money.

Unfortunately I haven't seen any rebuild kits that include the spring. I'm hoping someone has a junk wheel cylinder laying around that they can rob the spring out of. Otherwise I'm going to have to buy a new cylinder.

No there is a cone shaped spring that goes inside the wheel cylinder and goes on the piston.

I wouldn't recommend running the stock headlights with the stock wiring. I would suggest you put in some headlight relay kits to you get full voltage to the lights. Then the stock wiring is only supporting the load to open the relay's. Just by doing this my stock sealed beams got probably 50% brighter. Then after that as long as you used heavy enough wire you should be able to run what ever wattage you like.

Ya ive scoured that page for many hours. It makes me depressed because i know i will never be able to make a harness like they do. Good info though.

So I've been working on my z and I'm rebuilding the wheel cylinders on the rear brakes. Somehow I lost one of the springs that goes on the piston. Anybody have one laying around? Maybe someone who did a rear disk upgrade? Let me know. Thanks

When I did mine i had the machine shop do the bearing hole only. I used a die grinder with a cut off wheel and a oval shaped bur to get the clearance for the gear. Just kept cutting till i had clearance. On the shift rod I used a 5/8" drill bit and drilled it out. Just made it as square as possible and it followed the current hole. The only thing that needs to be done at the machine shop is the bearing hole.