2eighTZ4me

What fuel pumps are you turbo guys running and what kind of power are you able to sustain with such? Looking back through the Aeromotive install guide, they're recommending a pump voltage control module to the tune of $300+. I'm not shooting for anything over 400rwhp. I've got 440cc injectors now. It'd be cheaper for me to buy another pump and retrofit than to go the route Aeromotive is recommending. Suggestions (part #'s prices etc.) would be greatly appreciated BTW - the car is used for road racing - needs to be durable and sustainable.

Also, just to clarify, I have felt the fuel pump and the lines in the engine bay when it's acting like this. Both are cool to the touch. No evidence of heat soak or anything.

Already pulled datalogs and submitted them to a second set of eyes - Matt at DIY AutoTune. Voltage is dead constant throughout the whole ordeal. Running a GM alternator. Every other parameter is also spot on as well - save for AFR. Matt confirmed.

I already checked the FPR - I ran a gauge out of it through the hood. It's brand new, as is the pump. Less than 1000mi. on both components.

As the title says, I'm losing fuel pressure under boost and going terribly lean. I upped fuel pressure to 42psi last night, and made a few runs. When the car gets warm/hot, I lose HALF of the fuel pressure when the car goes under boost. Drops to about 18-22psi. MS1 fuel only. Idle AFR's and cruise are 10.8-13.2. When the car gets hot, they go up to about 12.2 - 14.4. Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump through Aeromotive filter - all Aeroquip -8 AN from the pump up to the front. Converts down to -6AN just before hitting the fuel rail. Return is -8AN as well. Fuel is not boiling. I can touch the fuel line and it's not even warm. If I let off the gas under boost, pressure comes right back to 42. This pump should supply this car easily. There's no way I'm making more than 350hp right now. This pump should supply a car with double that. I'm thinking I have a pinched line somewhere?? As the car gets hotter, the fuel hose becomes more pliable and cuts off more fuel. It didn't do this a couple months ago. I could boost until the cows came home. Only in the hotter weather is it prevalent. OR - could the drop from -8 to -6 prior to the fuel rail be an issue? I have no idea at this point. Any ideas??? Do I need a freakin' surge tank???

MSA sells the cam tower shims, as does a member on this board. Your machinist doesn't appear to have the "proper" connections. Let me guess - he does a lot of small block Chevys...... http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-1151 Go with the "proven" method of realigning cam geometry. I don't know what these "head saver" shims are - but I've not seen them and I'd go with the tried and true method of fixing what ails your motor.

Fair enough sir!!

Joel, Is all you have is the pans? I think I see the rails there in the pics though..... Price and possible shipping to 30044?

Yeah - I pretty much got that from the Honsowetz book - but for a homebuilt job - I guess that answers my question - ain't no sense in it. I got a couple pistons that are a wee bit heavier - I can match them up with the lighter rods. Even for the balance, the rotating mass will be "better" balanced than a motor that nobody took the time to match up - course - I realize it could work to my detriment if the centrifugal rotating forces are balanced "off" (90 degrees out of phase) - but I guess I'll take my chances - it's a stroker and it won't see more than 7K - I got a badass Rebello BHJ damper for it....

1 = 708g 2 = 706g 3 = 705g 4 = 706g 5 = 704g 6 = 704g Less than 1% difference amongst the crew. Do I get them down to the gram? If so - where do I take off material. My guess is toward the top, as that's where the most (for lack of the word I'm looking for) "weighted centrifugal motion"??? Shot peening after that and then bushed for JE pistons with the spiro locks.........want to make sure it's "right" - BRAAP, Tony D - race motor builders????

Refer to post #16 - " Wait until TonyD sees this - you think we're being tough on you? " Called it..... - Gold star to me.......wait -- I gave him the answers he was looking for........minus Gold star to me......crap!!!

It's not ego dude - you're asking questions that have been answered many many times before on this forum. There is a search feature on this forum that will tell you "differences between clutches" - head gaskets etc. If you come in here with the attitude that you deserve to be spoon fed answers every time you ask, people are going to start ignoring you (and flaming you), and no amount of tantrums you throw will get you any answers. Wait until TonyD sees this - you think we're being tough on you? 1) Use the head gasket that matches the block - so order it for a 280Z 2) There are 2 sized clutches. One for a coupe, and the other for a Turbo and 2+2. The turbo/2+2 has a 240mm surface. The one for the coupe has 225mm surface. You'll probably have to measure them once you get it out of the car to see if they are the same. It has no bearing whatsoever what block you're using. It's irrelevant. But since you have a turbo car - and you don't seem to know much about it, or its' heritage, you "may" have the 240mm setup in there. No way to tell unless you pull it out and measure it. I'd highly suggest using the search feature of this site. There are probably NO questions you could ask that haven't been covered before and documented on this site.

So Tony - was that a 2 degree 'retard' in cam timing that yielded those results?

Woldson - you're on to something......my guess is the car was purchased this way. There also seems to be about 5 different subjects going on in this thread. Too much to keep up with. I'll defer to the others....or better yet - a search might be in order. These topics have been covered before.

These are JE forged pistons, and they'll be ceramic coated on top and sides. They are of the dished variety - and a rather deep dish at that. Going with the stroker setup. I believe this should work out just fine.

Q: How much do I bid to win the busted-faced asian hooker? LOL!!!

If it does have flattops - then I wouldn't go much past 15psi. Dished you can get away with a little more. Upgraded ignition is not going to help you unless you have a device to retard timing under boost. The MSD 6-BTM has such a feature, so if you're using that - great. If not, it doesn't matter whether you light a match by hand and throw it in the cylinder, if the mixture ignites, and ignites too early under boost, blammo....you've got detonation and subsequent problems. I don't care whether it comes from a stock dist. and coil, or an MSD box. I showed my flattops 20psi of boost and broke off a quarter sized chunk off the skirt on #3. I couldn't get the timing backed down far enough. You can still use the P90 head though. Nothing stopping you from doing that, however, until you have a rock solid ignition system that is capable of retarding timing +/- 1 degree for every pound of boost you build - you're still going to have to deal with the detonation monster if you go cranking up the boost. The more boost you add, the more dangerous it gets. There's a tradeoff (that I'm experiencing right now) between power and longevity if you don't have a programmable ignition setup.....which I will have soon....

First thing you need to do is get your compositions copyrighted. You can do them by the song, or via a "compilation" (album). The individual method is more expensive (I think like $25 a song - if they haven't upped the fees) but it affords you distinct rights on lyrics/music in that song. A compilation copyright is a little more difficult for the authorities to nail down what exactly was stolen if someone happens to use your music for their own personal gain. Just do a Google search on "music copyright" and you'll find all the government forms necessary to print, fill out, and file. That should be your first order of business. Secondly, (once copyrighted) you can setup in any of a number of venues. Depending on how 'advanced' your project is (do you have "radio ready" recordings, or a fully produced CD ready to go?) you can go anywhere from Facebook to MySpace, or any of the other social networking sites and post them there. If you want $$$ out of it, Facebook has teamed up with Reverb Nation, and they have avenues to sell your songs. If you have a full CD, you can get it up on CD Baby or any of a number of other sites and promote it that way.

OOH - where / who???

You have created an intermittent ground problem.......somewhere..... I'd pull the radio back out and look for any loose connections in the harness or any loose wires. Check any loose wires with a test light to see if they're hot or ground. With and without the key in the on position. Work your way backwards. That should at least get you started.

If it's a stock block - and has not been gone through, then you no doubt have dished pistons - IF it's out of a 75. That combo would work fine for a turbo. I have an F54 block that I retrofitted with dished, and a P79 head on top, and the car has seen (on a bone stock motor) 20+psi. Now - I fail to see what your MSD not being installed has to do with "blowing rings"??? If it's ignition problems you have, the detonation monster usually goes after ring lands or piston skirts - not the rings themselves. Unless your MSD (which MSD makes a myriad of ignition and fuel products - so you need to be specific) is a boost controller / timing retard device, I don't know what you would gain by having it installed. 15psi is a lot safer number than 20psi with respect to fuel and timing curve. You shouldn't have any problems with overheating with a good oil cooler, proper timing curve, and good water cooling.

I'm a JE piston with a 33.5mm pin height. I want to live in a stock L28 F54 block. What has to go underneath me to accomplish this? If I refer to the following information (and have no reason to believe it is not true) http://www.zhome.com/rnt/L28conversion/3031FAQ.html Then block height is 207.9mm. Rod length for a 240 rod is 133mm Pin height (the JE piston above) is 33.5mm SO.....If I use a stroker crank at 83mm THEN, I take half of the throw of the stroker crank 83mm/2 = 41.5mm - then add pin height 33.5 + 41.5 = 75mm Then - 207.9mm - 75mm = 132.9mm - meaning the 240 rod on a stroker crank with these pistons would bring me to .1mm under the deck, and therefore I would not need a 2mm head gasket. Reason I ask - I got these pistons yesterday and mic'd them up and this is about the only combo I can think of that would yield what the original purchaser was going after. The OP is currently residing under the "where are they now" column....hence the question. Can someone confirm if my math is correct before I plunk down the bones for these slugs?

Did you get everything you needed? I have a good cyl. head, injection system, exh. manifold etc, that I'd just GIVE you. I need it out of my shed.

I'm surprised TonyD hasn't chimed in here..... he's not a big fan of the rear disc conversion at all (from my recollection) - and, in keeping with the TonyD spirit - he'll tell ya why too.....waiting with bated breath....