Modern Motorsports Ltd

BWD, that's CAD plating over steel to minimize corrosion potential, saves end user from having to paint a protective coat. It's a deleteable option in my package for those not wanting it, and thus allowing them to do their setup on a narrower budget than those wanting an all inclusive install package delivered. PS, I think I might have seen you on the volleyball or basketball court lately

No worries, just that their are thousands of lurkers that come and go, some only very briefly and they can assume a reply such as yours was based on experiencing numerous brake systems and deciding the solid upgrade was optimum. Never underestimate the power of the internet to inform or otherwise:) If your 50% pad gain was linearly true for braking theory and actuality with no other influences.....rear drums would be a lot more exciting than they are Take care and enjoy your calipers........it's still not too late to go vented or KVR or...just options......I've seen enough go thru several upgrades and $'s till they settle happily into a satisfying setup with full peace of mind.

OK, but where is your strut piston at travel wise, what's available? What coilover setup is this? spring length/rate etc? Sectioned struts at all? I'd suggest measuring before it's all apart where your strut piston is at and then when you take it apart, see what total travel is available. Depending on it's location you may be able to shim between the top of your coilover spring and the top hat/adjustable setup you have. Or swapping springs may work, all depends on strut piston travel availability/current location. Another option is spacing your crossmember to chassis mounts if you're close to reaching your desired height, not my favourite but still an option. just my thoughts

"NOOOO!!! Take those calipers and pads back! Get a set of calipers for a 1984 toyota 4x4 4runner. They are a direct bolt in replacement and you will get 50% more stopping power!!! " I'd caution against hyping to such a degree that caliper only mod while keeping the OEM rotor. Did you stop 50% quicker? You will gain some modulation that will aid braking in a shorter distance. On repetitive stops or a long high speed scrubbing stop you still have the solid rotor issue. It's mainly the OEM rotor that is the z's weakness, yes the 4x4 caliper helps but certainly not with the typical solid rotor heat sink issues which are what typically lead to the Z brake weaknes (rotors heat/temp rises/exceedes the pads happy zone, fade/weaker brakes come on..). I'd either freshen OEM and always pick good pads for best fun, and for a 2nd step of nominal cost, the vented rotor 4x4 setup. This has been echoed on this site dozens of times in the past by a fair number. Perhaps noone has been echoeing this the last year I've been mostly absent. On a budget one can elect to source good calipers and rotors used, have the rotors tuned and only buy pads and the rotor spacers. Perhaps refresh the caliper seals if required.

Yes, largest precast MH's in BC history dropped into place (joint at midline, one top and one bottom0. Speaking of holes...errr no, the route was aligned along some streets with 'the least social impact' which involved a few km's of very sleazy areas with everything rolled in. Some smaller holes made us skip lunch for the day! Thanks for the cross link Pete:) Davy's still got his charm and flattery mode on , works! I wrapped up yesterday late and am hard at work on MML today! Until a product update coming shortly, save your pennies and send your ideas (any!)to me:) I just love this engineering, some ongoing teamwork at present is really turning my crank!

Ouch, honestly you'll definitely want a bumpguard for those headers up front if you plan on keeping that ride height and driving typical street/curbs/ramps etc. Like an upside down sharkfin from HSS welded to the underside of your front crossmember, just an option. Do you need that low ride height? I've aided a few customers with similar heights. One did a long trip and literally couldn't go into some resorts as he couldn't clear their speed bumps, he was cursing the bumps etc etc and when I glanced at his ride his rear's were cambered in quite notably so the overly low ride height was even more obvious. Bumped him up a good inch as I recall and he noticed a handling difference (increase in body roll from his near zero prior) but did get used to it and much more appreciated the clearance of typical street 'bumps/curbs'. His front control arms were even angling up somewhat as I recall. His car handles very well and will shortly be squirting past mine with some ongoing mods. I should've been documenting ride heights etc but each seems somewhat unique to suit the owner. If you don't need that ride height for a unique reason you may want to build your geometry around a higher height. What available compression remains on your Koni's at that height? Bumping their valving could overstress them quickly if your springs are matched reasonalbly well, just some thoughts.

No offense but sorry to hear that. You described what sound like some very wonderful go fast parts and then bought replacement parts for OEM brakes? Even in a time pinch I'd go with some KVR pads at a minimum to prevent the easy fires of OEM pads and the very poor rotor wear of many typical semi metallics. As you noted you will be wanting more braking to maintain both your own safety (and that of others) as well as to balance the enjoyment of your power increase. Naturally I'll appear biased but I'd prefer the extremely reliable positive pedal feel and longevity of PBR's DOT lightweight aluminum calipers with patented floating system used worldwide on DOT & racing setups vs. the fixed caliper Wilwood setup thats rather intolerant of any deviation in parallelism in the rotor path, including that induced by their own cheaper flexprone calipers, or bearing wear/rotor imperfection etc. That's just for starters....Nissan swapped the fixed piston calipers on their Z32's 3 times for similar reasons. Yes Dave's (AZ Zcar) items work fine, but I've heard from his customers as well, it hasn't answered all their desires. You said 'best' so one can discern openly. With respect to clearing your panasports, any typical OD rotor/brake upgrade setups will clear those wheels. Even my 13" Xtreme setups clear under most 16" wheels (they'd clear your panasports), fine another 13" setup that does that and I'd be surprised:) Take care and good luck with your car.

17 lb is heavy in your opinion? Whew, you must be racing some fine high quality goods or smaller sizes typically! Nothing wrong with 17lbs IMO. I had a customer come by last summer, we did front/rear brakes and customer 5lug spacers. A single front OZ wheel with tire was 57 lbs!! And his rears are 2" wider (10's or 11's, don't recall). For 17" and up I feel weights under 20 are good and less than 18 even better. My own 16x8's are 16 lbs each which I'm quite happy about at their price and being forged aluminum. Fine deal:) When I see your order come in your spacers will go out:)

I noticed everyone gave you the right answer, but just to make sure you understand: bleeder screws are their for proper bleeding of all air out of your brake fluid system and thus they need to be located at the uppermost fluid access point on your calipers, thus the top. Regardless of your caliper type/year/application. Exceptions occur when this wasn't engineering into the caliper for any number of reasons.....with these exceptions one would typically remove the caliper and position it with the bleeder vertical along with other details to carry out a proper bleed. BTW, tapping your calipers with a rubber hammer when/prior/during bleeding never hurts......particularly with new calipers or refilling an empty sytem you can have tiny air bubbles adhered to the metal surfaces inside your system. Tapping will often release these. In some cases I've found you can't remove all 'softness' in the first few bleeds and driving (assuming it's not THAT spongy) a few days and then rebleeding (with tapping) will then 99 times out of a 100 remove any remaining sponginess. HTH,

Dan, on the prior page the cold air induction picture isn't showing up for me? Can you direct email those to me? I have a customer planning cold air for his Lt1 at present, thanks!

Howdy buds! Well I'm FINALLY done (last day is tomorrow) what's been a very exhausting 10 mos. long construction project. It's meant a commitment that hasn't allowed me to complete the R&D on the MML side I've wanted. On the flipside it was very good for my career, the project came in on time and under budget (45M job) I'm even writing this from my construction trailer/webmail/laptop to take a break from completing my final few hours of paperwork that'll wrap up tomorrown and then it's production craze onwards! All typical webshop packages have still been flying out, I've set up some very cool rides this past year all over the continent via the web! We're very proud of some inroads we've made internationally this past year. So many fine rides in this forum and yet it still surprises me how many extraordinary rides exist we never see or hear about outside the forum until I get the inquiry and the joy of working with these owners referred typically by forum members. I haven't had time to surf hybridz at all and truly miss this 'home' I frequented so much in the past. HUGE thanks to the ongoing support of friends/customers over the last year including their support when I was truly exhausted from the extensive daily grind. I've got a break now before I get back into my daytime engineering work and during this period some new MML products will be rolling out of which I'm VERY excited about. Prototypes/engineering/head scratching between a few engineer friends and myself has been ongoing for months with a good timeslug at once required to wrap these up and put them in your hands! (yes rear control arms progressing )I'm SO excited about finally getting to this point (I was supposed to be done on this dayjob 3-4 mos. ago but they wouldn't let go!). I'll be posting more details very shortly as well as participating once again in this fine place. I see many new active members which brings a huge smile to my face, this place still appears very much to be a candid open minded discussion forum loaded with tech savvy posters I enjoyed so much previously! Back to wrapping up my paperwork to ensure tomorrow is my last day, just had to say hi and look forward to hanging out again

Hehe, I sent out some international packages to Europe/Japan, and Oz. lately via posties.....all other slips (US etc) you can fill out at side counter....NOT international express, that had some agitated! I figure most line up to do business they can prelabel/complete anyhow, so the few of us with counter only business (like unique bank matters I do, when others are lined up to pay ordinary bills etc!) have every right to be their. Also amused me when the teller looked up amidst our arrangments in shock and said that'll be $650 dollars so far, you still want to go ahead with that? "Sure, that's $20 less than my estimate for those 3 setups, that's great!". Thanks again Tim for coordinating all that! I KNOW what time/effort that takes let alone the prior communication efforts, good on ya!

"must be very busy!" Yup, Xmas order rush ongoing and 70 hr work weeks still carrying on..nearly done this 9 mos. daytime slug on this one project....emails are all being responded to as quick as I can. Some more involved responses are harder to fit into smaller available timeslots. " I plan to work on the car in a small window two weeks from today" I'll most honestly toss up the red flag on 'small window'.....we can all plan to work fast but banking on it isn't always an enjoyable experience. "The Z-Honda adapters make the bolt pattern 4x100, right?" Yes, but custom ones can be done in most any other 4 bolt pattern/offset for your 4 lug car. Or in most any other 5 bolt pattern/offset IF YOU'VE already converted to a 5lug pattern (ie. not a 4 to 5lug adaptor from MML, they're not economically feasible to make custom thickness sets per each order) We'll always provide same number of lug bolt pattern adaptors (ie. 4 to 4........or 5 to 5 lug etc). "A 42mm offset is ok to keep wheel centerline where it is supposed to be? (putting in coilovers) (16x7.5 wheel)" Offset of your wheel and the adaptor thickness are not one and the same. Most Z's had a positive offset OEM wheel so if a Z had a 10mm positive offset OEM wheel and you want to go to a 42mm adaptor and stay with OEM centreline then you would want a 32mm adaptor. I VERY STRONGLY suggest measuring up your own car as some do NOT LIKE the oem centreline Datsun's place their wheels at. It's too far inboard for these folks and they want their wheels pushed out somewhat. If for ie. a 32mm adaptor placed you at OEM centreline then a 42mm adaptor would push your centreline (and outside wheel/tire edge) out a further 10mm's. "Also, is there any reason to choose the 5lug over the 4x100? Just a matter of preference? What offset is needed with his 5lug?" Some choose 5lug because: -simply as the wheels they like are in a 5lug pattern (my choice, cheap and very available well engineered light/wide OEM wheels, today their are more similar aftermarket wheels in the 4lug patterns that weren't around when I did mine) -they feel 5lug is more appropriate looking for their buildup -they favour the additional strength of 5lug pattern over a 4 lug pattern -for 5lug your rear offset is same as with a 4lug as the rear is only redrilled/prepped, no difference in offset is done with this mod, so any thickness requirement for new wheels comes entirely into the adaptor -for 5lug front's the 5lug hub used to convert adds approximately one inch of positive offset so this needs to be planned into your adaptors. -custom adaptors are rarely just a calculation via other webpages or based on other's experiences, when you step to non-standard sizes/offsets and want a specific placement location on your car (I'd ALWAYS go as wide as I could within my OEM fenders for improved handling/greater trackwidth) it's best to just measure up your car, it's not very hard to do and well worth placing your wheels where you want to the first time "Thanks again, guys" No worries:) Ross (back to my emails and packaging) C

You've got a rather complete email:) Was a busy week, including a 20 hr shift on one of the 6days I worked this past week Be glad when this fastrack project is done! For others with orders underway, they're all progressing, several out this past week. Those considering new orders and want their parts to install over Xmas holidays.....place orders promptly as Xmas orders are increasing and orders are dealt in typical order they come in. Typically some shipping delays can occur right around Xmas so I try to ship out setups as quick as possible to avoid the Xmas turmoil/extra courier loads. Cheers & hope all my American friends had a fine Thanksgiving!

Mike, you're the fastest emailer/forum poster known to mankind:) I sent the spec info to Matt and cc'd (carbon copied) you to keep you in the information loop. Let's take the chat aspects to private email where possible bud.

Mike, last night I had missed reading an above post where your dad might cut out a portion of your fender lips......If you raise the sleeve 1.5", and trim your fender their is a chance you could be close to using them as is. You could gain 1.5" on the sleeve adjustment (plus a 1/4" I still see available in that picture??). PLus an inch (guessing here) on your fender trimming. Have you asked the seller (John Washington?) about suggestions for his fender install/trim amount? The more trimming he suggests the better you're off. It may not allow ideal travel but it would get you going in reasonably manner which you can tweak later.....custom spacer at top of strut mount (above OEM top strut top) to increase overall strut length is one option to save strut reworking....like a bolt on wheel adaptor but a bolt on strut 'raiser'. That's one HELLUV'AN offer Matt's anted up for you! Sorry Mike but my machinists are booked up and couldn't sqeeze in a modification like this in a timely manner for your rush timeframe as I passed on to you.

Mike, I responded to your email....99% certain your struts are definitely too short after reading your 'length removed' response. Raising the tubes will NOT increase strut extension, it could reduce the length of spring required. I'm not clear on heat limits of 6061 aluminum but rotor hats certainly see those temps in some uses.

No worries and you're welcome Mike, I do this because I enjoy knowing cars are being used and thus want products understood and enjoyed while meeting the owner's objectives. Mike's q- do you have any spring perches i can get to weld them on a set of new strut tubes ill get? ill prob need new sleves too because my dad silaconed (sp?) them on so they wouldnt move. yes, yes and yes:) having more 8" 280Z units made this week as they've been popular of late (even a set to Oz last week), can send the usual shorter typical units as well......hushhh about the silicone, that's a trick for MML supported customers they get with install instructions as you know:)