Modern Motorsports Ltd

Pete, enjoyable as always I have ported the head side of my wedge slightly oversize (25 thou?, haven't touched them in a week or so, been to busy). Just not enough time to type in all the details in these web posts. I've read similarly as yourself for some time now that a slight oversize their aids a bit of a 'spillover' (mild turbulence inducing)to help combat reversion as you say and can aid some scavenging. Do you recall a physical quantity/scale on that oversize? I'm not getting too caught up in it as I know it'll be a huge change over present setup so should be quite an eyeopener for myself. Had a nice drag with a Honda 600 'zf?' this am. At the next light about a 1/2 mile down we were stopped. He flipped up his visor/tilted his helmet and only uttered "That car is quick!". Closed his helmet and off we went again Some days I arrive at work with bigger grins than others

Ideally ports would match. Only so many parts we have to choose from. I'm content with a close match and more concerned with a GREAT seal. Setting up sbc's is all give and take. But I really like playing with a motor that a 'non-ideal' action/part may only cost 10-15hp that I'll never feel as it's all enjoyable excess anyhow (IMHO). My ports will match very close, I'm quite picky on some items, so when I say it's a non-match it's not that it's horribly off.

Yes the Lt1 has D shaped ports. But the typical hooker 2100 headers do fit quite well. Some intelligent epoxy (or welding) and grinding in the header ports will match them up with your heads. My dad had his altered and they're working and sealing very well. I'm presently using/working towards using the same headers in my ZX on my rpm heads. I've had wedges made to bring out my collector. As well one side of my 'wedges' now has a square (older rpms, yes square, new 6089 rpm's are not square)port and transitions to the oval of the hooker headers (I don't think their oval realy fits much of anything!)

I'm sure some of the universals could be made to work. Whether the rates are appropriate at all for your uses though is another question. I can measure the fully extended length of existing Illumina's if you like (ask via direct mail, I'm not in here hourly) Matthew, I've got coilovers on my V8280ZX as well as customers cars. Any q's or needs feel free to ask me via direct email.

Just place the end of a prybar between the hub and rotor under the four tabs where the wheel stud heads are.....pry each of the 4 progressively (or two opposing at the same time) and it'll just pop off easily

Sure, you need the appropriate spacer and a pair of calipers from one of the following:89-95 4WD Pickup 4/89-91 4Runner I'll assume VB didn't offer up that info to you

Not as quick on the draw as Mike but I've got 'em as well. Pics/pricing on my web. DOT custom braided lines etc etc Here's a recent post/pic by a customer Post and pic of MML rear disk package. any q's feel free (I'm quicker on email vs web as that's my usual mode of response)

I listed some Bosch tech info on some suitable pumps a while back that some searches should show......~June/July of 2001. I'm running one as is my father. 45gph/72psi as I recall and very quiet. I wanted the quiet and reliability and it's working so far.

Sure other parts are compatible. Not much unique about a ZZ4, they have L98 (old tech vette al heads) heads and a hydr. roller cam/roller rocker setup. Swap the heads with something newer tech (those L98's aren't so hot) and it's basically any base 350 buildup with roller valvetrain....If you're brewing your own it's nice to pick a newer bottom end so you get the crank compatible for a cheaper T56 install if that's ever a possibility. Just my .02c

Been available for a while now as web says, just haven't got to updating more info with pricing and pics. Occupied with work and summer mod frenzies helping others. I have to apologize for my slow web updates, customer product needs have been the priority so please feel free to inquire personally when you have q's as I've rarely had time for the web lately. Setup is $850 and that's 13"x1.1" Brembo rotors, guaranteed to satisfy ALL needs , aluminum PBR calipers,brackets, custom SS braided lines, to bolt onto a 5lug converted 280ZX. I can and have supplied the 5lug conversion parts as well including fully redone front hubs and rear stub axles. Sean here as installed the full setup. A 2 piece 13" rotor setup for 4lug 280ZX's (and 5luggers) will be available in short order as soon as someone inquires for their own 280ZX setup. I'm presently putting out some 4lug Z 13" 2 piece setups. Pricing for those is not concrete yet as final items are just being made and then all costs will be realized. Specs and performance on both are Xtreme (anyone like 13" 1.1"rotors with massive swept area's that weigh ~10lbs and serve all needs;), a typical 4x4 0.8" vented rotor even weighs more)and combined with a very long lived system

Hehe, keystroke error bud, it was $405 shipped out yesterday, can't have everyone thinking it costs me $80 to ship to my US buds Another $50 would've had you a beer cooler,....brake fluid...and some brewskiez

Cody, check out your lower control arm angle......if they're angled down towards your wheel or near horizontal with the ground then you're generally OK. If you're lowered enough that your control arms angle upwards as they reach your wheel/strut then you can use an adjustment in your control arm angle. You can either do it with those spacers or you can adjust your crossmember pickup point in both vertical and lateral location similar to the JTR reccomendation for Z's.

Sure can, their HP series. Same one I've got, I don't have a PN handy though.

Ford/Mazda/Toyota/Nissan/Acura is easy as it's 5x4.5" (5 holes on a 4.5" bolt circle) which is the same bolt circle as all Datsun/Nissan (ie. 4.5" bolt circle, but we have 4lug/hole OEM). 300ZX Z31 hubs bolt on so that's the 'easy' front 5x4.5" install (brakes done separate) and rears can be redrilled JUST BARELY on the existing flanges where one of the original bolt hole locations is retained. I don't have a web pic handy of my redrilled units to reference, perhaps a customer does? Only ~1/32 of metal is left on the outer flange edge, I have it built up with a welded 'eyelet' for extra comfort. No room to drill a larger bolt pattern (ie. Chevy 5x4.75) on those stubs without more extensive mods. For a Chevy pattern it may be simplest to just use a set of 5lug pattern change bolt on wheel adaptors. Nothing very unique involved so easy to service anything if ever required. For Trevor's 'production' q's above, it's mainly the 280Z stub axles that are in demand and I haven't heard of many at all being broken. The 240 and 280ZX units are NOT in demand AFAIK. If you choose to use 280ZXT comp. flanges etc then you may experience binding as others have. That's the exact reason Scotty made his unique pieces and then him and I talked and they got tweaked a touch more and have now gone out for numerous installs. Customers typically use the 280Z flanges and stub axles which don't seem that short in supply. They're not overly available locally to me but then we don't have a strong used Z car supply for that generation locally anymore. US customers haven't had issues coming up with their own, I have some for those that do need them but prefer core exchange on the redrilled 5lug etc when possible.

It's been years since I worked on the pre Datsolet OEM NA L28 and even then I did the timing chain and a few others things but memory is still faint. Only diesel's typically have vacuum pumps (electric ones to boot) that I'm aware of. I'm not very informed on turbo's but still can't see the need for a vacuum pump on a 280ZXT. Guys often pick up parts yard electric vacuum pumps (or new) from diesels or install the cannisters you're talking of. I believe Bradman was thinking vacuum boosters. Pete, is that typical vacuum you should expect for our setup? I know you have some tuning too sort out so perhaps you'll finish off with more vacuum once dialed in? Just wanting your vacuum solution to fit your final 'tune'

24/7/365 use...daily driver that NO MATTER how my day went my Z can give it a high point, leaving a light with 'mild' throttle and being a block away before everyone's cleared the intersection and you only throttled up to 35mph can be the mild points...dropping AMGs/NSX's like flies when they buzz around during daily commuting (my commute is a big 15minutes) is also fun...I do greatly enjoy lapping days when I can fit them in but just having the enjoyment of hanging corners/curves/lights/hills every time I drive really lights up my day/night:) You never know when a thrill might come around...the other day it was some very kewl looking biker (million dollar irridescent gold suit and helmet) that did a stoplight launch with me (kinda a harsh description as I can feather my built automatic out without wheelsping (ie. not grabbing unwanted attention)) and I surprised him and we had some fun Going to track days and easily torquing past full race AS sedans, some built vettes etc etc and then outbraking them into the turns is Zatizfying az well I enjoy street and lapping days primarily and then autox and 1320 as well. If good tracks were closer I'm sure I'd do more of it......

Their are high ratio front axles in some 70's and 80's specific Nissan trucks which are R180's and are the common source for higher gears/diffs (4.38's and 4.6X). The rear of a later model solid axle rear is an LSD R200 setup that can be used for IRS-axle via word of mouth (ie. not confirmed, they do have some R200 LSD truck rears)

" How much harder is it to do a LT1 swap compared to a carburated engine swap?" How familiar are you with the LT1 wiring or mods required? Some of the mechanical is easier IMO as the motor is done with most all accessories with it and great hood clearance to boot. The wiring I haven't seen documented much, my dad's wiring was already somewhat modified and he took it further. "How much is a LT1 T56 swap going to cost me from buying the car to getting it running and drivable?" Comes down to how resourceful you are, your budget, and your patience as well as the quantity of work you plan to do yourself (and is that time free?) "How long will it take me to do the swap from pulling the old engine to getting the car on the road?" See above.......some guys do sbc swaps in a few weeks and others a few years.... "I just want to see what you guys think to make sure that I am up to this or if I should rethink the swap or scrap the whole idea and just buy a LT1 camaro or firebird" Depends on your goals/desires etc......you haven't passed too much on in that respect...more info required....I've already commented on Lt1's in many threads. The site's search function is very good.

" A reply on zcar.com pointed me to another site with a pic of a clutch LSD vs. the viscous" I'd appreciate the link to that picture, I get that question all the time. Don't give up on your pursuit of a decent used one. It is the MOST misdescribed part in Z land IMO. FWIW, I've had great luck with the 5 or 6 used clutch type LSD's I've come across over the years. I usually pounced on lower mileage automatic cars. Only one was truly trashed and went on to live as a full rebuilt in E. Radatz racecar. I've had mine in for a number of years now and still enjoying fine function. My dad's enjoying his and the other ones are mostly installed but see infrequent use in some cars that are more frequently modified than driven One local racer has his shimmed so tight it's almost a welded unit and has served him well for a few years now. And he sees almost every event in a very torquey Xtreme hybridz, enough to swap Ujoints after every 2-3 autox sessions.

Hard to say, are the rear treads wider than the fronts Zweet setup

Can't break what isn't their....CV axles have CV joints inners and outers.

What don't you like about your Lt1? I have a hunch you'd like it in a 2500lb Z in which you wouldn't even use 1st gear with the T56......Lt1's aren't pricey to mod to reasonable levels ala 400hp for the reliability and mannerisms one gets with that package IMO. To each his own. I've seen Lt1/T56 lower miles /fine shape powertrains as low as $2500 previously. Even at $3500 I think that's a fine deal if it suits your plans. Sounds like you're looking more at the easier to mod setups, keep us updated

Welcome local bud , that is a GREAT combo and best bang/buck overall buildup decision for a hybridz seeing reasonable miles (ie. going to be used!) IMHO. My father has it in his 240Z and lots of friends own the 4th gen camaro's so I have a lot of respect for the function of the Lt1/T56 combo/engineering. An Island bud's coming over tomorrow and I'll likely be over their before summer's out...drop me a line if you're ever heading over! The Island Z club is quite active with enjoyable events happening with regularity. (I'd type more but it's been a heckuva a crazee week and it's not over yet!)

Yup, still have one and it's NOS (brand new) in the NOS box;^) Listed on my web under/products/additional parts..

The plot thickens. Hmmm, I was quite certain we only did the comp. flanges.......but I do now recall having a bearing mixup and taking an extra day as the correct bearings came in (wrong one originally sent in right box, argg) so maybe I did change the stubaxles(it was a few years ago!) ? Hmmphf! I KNOW 1000% I didn't change my control arms.....not saying all 280ZX control arms are the same but I was able to install the CV's without changing my control arms.