HICKL

The Holley dp 750 I am using has one big vacuum port in the back. My performer RPM has a hole in the # 6 or 8 runner for vacuum but I can't get to it because the carb is in the way. I need a vacuum source for the power brakes and for my pcv vent. What am I supposed to do? Can you use a "T" and pull both from the same source??

Thanks Davy, actually, the tunnel ram is sitting on a shelf right now. I was having some tuning issues in the colder weather and decided to pull it for a while. Took my first ride out of the neighborhood last night, jetting is still off, plugs look really rich, but it feels really really strong already. Pretty excited!

It worked for me but took forever to play. Maybe we aren't supposed to put videos in "my photo album"

Here's a little clip of at idle, I wish I had it dualed out but that will have to wait for another day. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=12948&cat=500&ppuser=8295

It's alive! Fired it up and did the break in sat evening. Did some tuning yesterday. Have to play with the jetting, has a hesitation in the "blip". Checked the piston to valve clearance and have at least .120. How much time should I put on it before re-adjust the lash? Sound good right now.

I'm actually waiting on my -.100 push rods to come in. Mine are a little long and have the roller a little far to the exhaust side of the stem. Once I get that right, I am going to check my valve clearance. My machine shop guy has all the tools I need to check using a the light spring and an indicator method. That's why it's "almost ready". I don't expect a problem there, let's hope I'm right or will be doing some disassembly.

THanks to grumpy and all who shared there knowledge with me on this project. Wish me luck! http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=12827&cat=500

That's what I thought. I am leaning towards the combo you listed. I re-read my recent hot rod article on solid lift cams and today's oils and that is basically what they recomended.

I thought the valvoline race was synthetic, that's why I was looking at the others.

That chart does not list any straight 30 et, and in the 10w30's the only one that really stands out on zinc content is the Valvoline race. Are the ones in the .12 range adequate or is that too low in your opinion.

So basically, you are saying basically any non synthetic 30 wt for break in...right?

I wish I was knowledgeable enough about all that to make a decision based on what I jsut read! Is your recomendation for break in only or for the life of the motor? Would you go with 30 weight?

I have already forgotten the ring manufacturer, but looking back at the Jeg's site it calls them "plasma moly cast rings" I have heard of the diesel oil as well, after break in I could go back to something normal right?

I have heard and read too many different ideas then I can even remember. Hot Rod had a big recent article on the high potential for damaging a solid lifter cam with "today's oils" on break in. I had a guy tell me to use non detergent 30 weight to seat the rings quicker, then drain it out. What is the best method in you guys' opinion to get good ring seating and not fry a solid lift cam? My last motor seemed to take forever to fully seat the rings if it ever did. Thanks Jeff

Finally got my lifters in. Was checking my pushrod length last night and it appears to be a little off. I think I need a little shorter push rod. I was looking in Jegs last night and all they list is stock and then plus sizes. They sell them in minus sizes to right?? It's too early to call anybody so I am asking you guys. Thanks

Man!! My short block is ready, Heads are done, wife is out of town for the weekend, all is good except my lifters won't be delivered till Monday! That really puts a hold on what I can get done this weekend. I can't even put my heads on cuz I need to check valve to piston clearance. Oh well. Maybe UPS will deliver early.

Kuntry, I have a holley DP that I will run for starters. Grumpy, thanks for all your input, I'm just messin with you. I have re-built quite a few motors, just always with mostly stock internals. I can handle it. I won't drop any bolts this time. Can't wait to fire it up though....but will.

OH, THOSE clearances... I thought you had a specific concern. So your not going to be in Houston?

Ok, so to make sure I am following you want it installed at "0" right? Are you referring to piston to valve clearances? If so, what is the best way to do that? My kids play dough? Or do you mean rod clearance? Probably all of the above. Any chance you will be in Houston this weekend?

Hey Grumpy, I got my cam in today. It calls for a hot lash of .026, sure sounds like a lot. Would you tighten that up a bit or go with it. Secondly, you had earlier recomended seting it up at 4 degrees retarded I think. Is that still what you think? Retarded pushes the power band up right? Is that worth while with my current Performer RPM intake stup? Thanks a lot. Status: Block is clearanced and ready for final assembly. All parts are in short of lifters that should be here by friday.

I freakin hope so at 3 times the investment of my first motor!!! Can't wait to find out.

All parts are on order or in my garage, blocked is bored and honed, will griind clearance tonight. What kind or peak and avg numbers did you get on your dyno software for this setup? Thanks again for all of your help. Jeff

Thanks.

Ok Grumpy, unless you tell me otherwise, I will be ordering the cam you picked on Monday. I think I have some "decent" push rods but don't remember exatly what they are. What level of push rod will I need for this setup?