HICKL

looks like a nice solid car. Good luck with your build.

I have one of those carbs on a project truck I am building and mine is notorious for the idle circuit getting clogged if it sits for very long at all.

Are you working with a new carb or an older one that may have some crud or blockage. That may explain why you can't idle it down. I usually set my base timing right away before I bother with any carb tuning. Jeff

Ive got a buddy building a 72 chevy truck and needs a good hood and front fenders. If those are in tact, don't push it off the cliff! The cool part is, he has a perfect donor Z for your project. Complete car, has a motor and all but hasn't been run in quite a while. It's in Houston. Maybe some kind of trade is in order?

Ok, now I follow you. Is that a belt driven pump? I did a google search and found a few add's but no real help.

What about it? Am I missing something here?

I don't like the vacuum can because after hitting the breaks, my motor stumbles for a few seconds while it experiences the big vacuum leak of re-filling the can.

My motor creates very little vacuum at idle so my breaks suck. I have messed with a vacuum canister but didn't like it. I've heard of adding an electric vacuum pump to boost the vacuum. Anybody got any input or cost effective solutions? Thanks Jeff

I finally moved it out of my way, got tired of tripping over it! No problem, just let me know.

Hey Nukes, if your frame rails are good, the car will handle quite a bit of power. There is a weak link fix for the R200 that makes it pretty tuff, there is much info on it here but it pertains to welding the spider gear pin in place. Search for it or pm me and I can give you more info. I just got thru replacing mine. I'm with you on the tunnel ram, they sure look cool, see my avatar. I'm just north of Houston, if you want to check anything out first hand just make the drive and you can look over mine. Jeff

I had G-force build it. I can't remember the specifics, there's one guy there that specializes in the GM tranny's so I just talked to him and told him what I wanted it to be able to handle. I know it was new gears and mainshaft and some re-inforcement plate.

I had G-force build my T5 and if has held up so far. Of course you have to have a T5 to start with and then $2000 plus for the build so you are back up to 3K again real quick. I like mine though, nice and light weight compared to the T56.

I have one video but it's too far away and not much to look at. Thanks Grumpy, the car was working pretty well. I have some big ole 11.5 wide street slicks and they were grabbing pretty good. As the weekend when on, I was launching harder and harder and my 60's where getting better and better. It was my first time to run on the slicks so it was a learning curve. The only thing I didn't like was in the burnout box, my tire spin kept swithching back and forth. Had trouble getting a good burnout with both tires. I guess it's time for a LSD or posi. With street tires, it will roast both of them, I guess the slicks where just grabbing better. Had a blast and brought it home in one pc.

My goal at super chevy was to break into the 11's, I did a bunch of 11.9's and 2 11.78's. I could have done more 11.7's, I had 3 really strong passes when I was bracket racing but was letting of to secure the win without breaking out. My best 60' was a 1.62. I'm super pleased, the car held up great, I made at least 15 passes. Man it was hot out there though. Thanks again to grumpy and everyone who gave advice on my stroker build. First time on the track with it and it dropped my et by half a second. Still has more power in it I'm sure.

That's pretty much how I always have to run it. This will be the first real test with street slicks so hopefully I can push it a little harder...and hopefully nothing breaks!

http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=8295 Not running the tunnel ram right now that is in some of the pics.

I'm headed to San Antonio tomorrow for my annual Super Chevy weekend to finally test the stroker motor and the street slicks down the 1/4 mile. I hope she holds together and if the planets are in alignment, I hope to get into the 11's. If anyone wants to drop in, I'll have my cell on me all weekend. 832-768-1385 Jeff

I call mine "Red"....because it's red. Pretty lame I know, but I also have had 2 cats named "Kitty" and I have an orange cat named "orangy". I guess I'm not very creative.

We do very little baker work. Sorry Grumpy, we let your thread get off course. Jeff

No worries, I am past that point of decision making now. FYI, in case anyone else doesn't know this, the rear diff input flange on a 280 zx or 300zx is different than the 280 one. I figured it out when I tried to bolt up my driveshaft and it didn't work. Wasn't too big of a deal to change under the car (once I got the nut broke loose), but it sure would have been alot easier to swap on the work bench.

The V band stuff wouldn't be cost effective unless I was making 100 of them. The square flange is something I could knock out in my spare time. Jeff

My 280zx cv's are back in the car and compressed so I can't really get a good measure on them.

I don't know what a 3" v-band flange is, but I have made a few stainless flanges for a turbo friend of mine. If you can get me some sketches, I can tell you if I can help you or not.