HICKL

As always, neat stuff, I however am well into my second Crown Royal and sprite so I can't say I soaked it all in. Will re read tomorrow. I guess the fact remains that what I will be bolting to this engine is the performer RPM that is in my garage. Partly because I know it is a good all around intake but mainly because this entire ordeal is an unexpected expenditure so I can't be buying new intakes right now. I don't mind if it is a little over cam'd for this performer because come spring time and friday night cruises, that tunnel ram will be looking pretty attractive again. Not to complicate things, I don't want to get into tunnel ram cam choices. I've been reading all day and believe I am prepared to give the solid lifter cam a go.

I kind of want to stick with the dual plane for now. I understand the sacrifice up top, but like the mid of the dual.

Will my performer RPM intake be crapping out before I get into the rpm range to benefit from the solids? I can always put the tunnel ram back on I guess!

So in your opinion, solid lifters are worth the added trouble in a street car?

I'm really liking the cam specs but am still scared of the solid lifters. "Everyone" is telling me that I will "constantly" be having to adjust them. Is the only real benefit at about 6000 rpm or will I see a gain anywhere else?

MY STUFF JUST CAME IN! and they look good!!!

I keep letting my threads change course so I will re-start this one so the title makes sense. I am following grumpy's advice and calling all the cam companies and getting there input on cam choice for my new stroker build. What I'm figuring out is that my logic wants one thing and my soul wants another. Logic wants good streetable power nice mid and all that. What the experts are giving me is some pretty mild cams in the 470 lift to 230 ish duration. What my soul wants is a big lumpy cam that screams when held wide open. I also know that my sportsman II heads really seem to wake up with a bigger cam. I don't want to leave a bunch of power on the table by under caming it for driveability. My old cam in my 350 was a .490 lift 230/236 duration and it was by no means to much cam for me. I guess when it comes down to it, I don't want to short change myself in performance for the benefit of day to day driving. Where is that fine line? I'm thinking of something in a .500 lift 240 duration. Anybody got any advice?

If you haven't pulled the motor yet, identify the key ones when you disconnect them from the z motor. IE: water temp, oil sending unit, starter, power to the coil.. If you have those, you can pretty much figure it out.

SB-Chevy 383 2-Piece Rear Seal Balanced Competition Assembly, Bore Dia.: 4.030'' Stroke: 3.750'' Rod Length: 5.700'' Piston Type: Flat Top @ -5cc Comp Ratio: 11.8:1 w/58cc Head, 11.0:1 w/64cc Head, 9.7:1 w/76cc Head This is straight from the JEGs website here: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_10001_10002_22553_-1_10759 So I guess around 11:1. Rear gear ratio is 3.54, Built T5 tranns, Not partial to any particular cam mfg, was going to call them all to get advice like you recommended. Let me know your choice as well, I think you said something in a 230 duration before. Chances are my motor won't see much use over 6000 rpm so is solid lifter of any benefit? Again, mostly street highway driven with occasional 1/4 mile passes. Like lopey idle but can't be to radical for I spend a lot of time in stop and go traffic. Need some low mid torque. Thanks Jeff

It's a done deal, The block checks out good, just ordered the "good stuff" from Jegs. Should be here thursday. Thanks for all the input. Yee Haa. Jeff

the pic with the blue pads is the one I found. Was a snap to install once I had that. Jeff

I found a pic on line that I think will get it done. Thanks for your help.

Mine have 2 wires per caliper and one is primarily straight but the other is all twisted up.

I am doing the basic swap, S12 calipers, new stock rotors and new ZX master. My question is the little metal clip things that come with the toyota caliper. I can't figure out how they go. Anybody got a pic of one assembled? Thanks Jeff

OK OK!! I will spend the freakin money!!!!! When my wife see's the bill, I'll have her call you! He He...

I have no problem with the block grinding, just trying to avoid the added expense of small base cams. I spoke the some guy at JEGS about their forged kit with the H-beams and he said that I should not have a problem with cam clearance. He also said the these assemblies are fully balanced so it should be turn-key ready to drop in. By the time I figure in the free shipping and the fact that they have it on the floor, I am leaning hard towards buying it from them. I just have to get my machine shop off center to make sure my new block is good. I have found better deals on forged stuff but nobody has it on the floor, will still need to be balanced and I would have to pay all the shipping.

So Grumpy, just to make sure I understand, you think I should buy the better kit? You're kinda ridin the fence. Just kidding, I get the feeling that if you could reach thru the computer you would be vigurously shaking me back and forth yelling "spend the freaking money"

This kit comes with forged pistons not hypers, but I get your point.

OK guys, I know this is all about opinions but that is what I am looking for. I am bouncing back in forth between what stroker kit to go with. These guys have two kits, both internal balanced with forged pistons. One has a 4340 forged crank with H beam rods, for around $1650 balanced and delivered, the other is an eagle cast crank with I beam rods for about $1100 balanced and delivered. Basing on my 2 bolt main block and my intended street use with just a mild chance of ever seeing a little NOS. Would the cheaper kit probably meet or exceed my needs or is it worth the extra $ in my case to get the forged crank etc. Also, is the any performance gain with the higher dollar kit (lighter crank etc) or is it all for strength. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-383-STROKER-KIT-Internal-Balance-6-rods-NICE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33620QQihZ020QQitemZ300064541513QQtcZphoto http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lightweight-SBC-Rotating-Assembly-Small-Block-Chevy-new_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33623QQihZ020QQitemZ300009086173QQtcZphoto Thanks for your input.

I would like to avoid the .900 base cam if possible, from a brief glance, they seem to cost quite a bit more. Am buried at work today so I haven't had time to do much research.

Nice article Grumpy, I read it all but have not read all the links yet. My specific question is will the I-beam rods give me "less" clearance problems than the H-beams"?

What about the cam clearance? Should I expect a problem there with the H beams?

I am planning a stroker build as anyone knows that has seen my other thread but have some questions. All the good kits are using H-beam rods, but I understand that these are larger than the I-beams and may require more clearancing and also may make me buy a smaller base cam. Is this true and should I be concerned with it?

I think I have pretty much decided on doing a stroker build. I want an internally balanced setup. Anybody heard of or dealt with these guys? http://stores.ebay.com/DYNOFLO-PERFORMANCE-AUTOWORKS

I doubt I can get away with just a hone. Motor is 30 years old. Will keep it in mind though.