HICKL

John, get that thing fixed and haul it to Texas in 2 weeks for Super Chevy! Jeff

Don't forget headers/exhaust manifold and exhaust sytem, mufflers etc. Any easy extra 400 bucks there.

I'll have to look, I used whatever they gave me which was 2 bottles of their gear lube and 3/4 of a quart of mobil1 ATF.

Whats the matter Larry, your car won't do a 2.72 1/4 mile? You callin me a lier? Ok, I fixed it.

I only have about 60 miles on it but it is already "reasonable". You hear it in second and third mostly, kinda sounds like a supercharger winding up. I have no complaints so far.

I finished up the tranny swap last night and drove it to work today. Feels really good, haven't hammered on it yet, gotta break in my clutch. I heard a lot of bad experiences with G-force but I have to say they were a pleasure to deal with and hooked me up pretty well. I just hope the trans is as good as it's supposed to be. Only time will tell. Super Chevy, San Antonin Texas in 3 weeks, I'm ready!

I may just be too dumb to live, but I tried to upload some pics to my vbgarage but I don't see them. Is there some kind of trick to it? I hit submit and it acts like it is doing something but thats it. Thanks Jeff

That's kind of what I'm thinking. Yes, I will be racing it, it is my annual event to see if I have improved my car or just worsened my gas mileage in 12 months

OK, here's my situation. I have a trans heading my way from G-force (yippee), My clutch has been holding fine but I planned on upgrading since I will be right there anyway. I am running my car at Super Chevy on Sep 29 in San Antonio (anybody care to join me?), anyway, from what I have read on any of the performance clutches, they have a 500-600 mile break in. I will do good to have 200 miles on it before this event. Am I better off leaving the old clutch in there or running a new one without proper break in? And no, I haven't decided which clutch I want, have looked into spec and centerforce and found good and bad on both. Don't want this thread to turn into a brand debate as there is plenty of that to read about already. Unless someone has a sugestion on one that does not require as long to break in! thanks Jeff

Just heard from G-force, my trans is done! I heard/read many a horror story about their turnaround time but I have to sing their praises. They turned mine around in 6 working days! Wee Haaaa!

Since were on the subject, My new trans should be here next week so I will be pulling my stock t5 out to sell. It is a non world-class with new 3rd gear anc cluster gear. I had it rebuild when 3rd gear went out and have basically been babying it so as not to break it again. It works great, I just know that I have too much power for it. If anybody wants it, It will be ready to sell next week. To re-coop my g-force expenses, I need to get about $2000 for it. Just kidding of course. If interested, let me know. Jeff

He acted like he had everything he needed and would turn mine around in a week or two. I told them I had an event to run at the end of september and needed it fast. He siad 2 weeks tops. We'll see. Jeff

Hey Pete, Who did you deal with at G-Force. They have my tranny as we speak and it sounds like I am dong exactly what you did. I am dealing with Smitty who is the actual GM builder and he seems like a straight up guy. I guess we'll see. Should be done in a week or two. Jeff

I bought some good pads yesterday, nothing special, just the best that that parts store had, skimmed my rotors and flushed all the brake fluid out and it seems to be better. Thanks for your help guys, I had done all that before but I may have used cheap pads. Jeff

Thanks PAZ, so between the master and the distribution block right. So I guess I would buy an adapter for both sides to get it from and back to metric. Would a good auto parts have these?

2eightynine, that's what I'm thinking. I don't understand enough about the proportioning valve to know how it would effect me. Is it splitting the pressure between the front and back or just the balance between the 2 fronts?

The gravel road was just to make a point, have been there done that on the street too many times. That's how I first realized I had a problem.

Front callipers aren't frozen, they function just not very good. Deja, I guess what I should have said is all systems are "functioning" I flushed the entire system when I put the car on the road about 3 years ago and it has always been this way, even prior to the SBC install. Is there a scientific way to check the master? I know it squirts out of both ports but not sure if the front is week. Same question for the proportioning valve? I figure the problem is with one of those items but am hoping to prove without just dumping money on swapping parts. Thanks Again Jeff

I guess I am calling the distribution block a proportioning valve. Don't the front brakes come off the distribution block on 2 seperate lines? If so, the solinoid would have to be before the block right or I would need 2 solinoids. I may be wrong on the 2 lines, but I thought from the block you had a line to each front brake and 1 line that feeds both rears.

I know about most of the upgrades, but I think something is wrong with my brake system. My rear brakes seem to be doing most of the work, I have a gravel driveway and can slam on the brakes in loose gravel and the rears will slide a long way and the fronts will barely lock. Entire system is stock but all seemingly in good working order. Have been driving the car for 4 years and has always been this way. Where should I start, master cylinder, proportioning valve? I wouldn't think it was the proportioning valve because both sides equally suck! I can't even do a good burnout because even with tires smoking, can't hold it still! thanks Jeff

I have never messed with this but want to put one on my SBC Z. Any advice or knowledge I need? Seems simple enough, I assume I would put it between the master and the proportioning valve. Is that correct? Thanks, Jeff