HICKL

http://www.jlindustrial.com/ These guys run some good sales every once and a while. You may be able to contact them and get on their mailing list. As a machinest and quality control supevisor, I have to agree with all above that you get what you pay for. I don't really use any digital od mics, you can be just about as accurate with a regular mic for much less $$. Hickl

I agree that the stock will not perform good enough for ac. I tried it.

I have been running my car for years with a stock radiator. You may need a better fan with a shroud.

I've made no Dyno pulls yet, but have just done what you speak of and am quite pleased with the results. Noticably more grunt and mine revs like a 283 which I didn't think would be the case.

I took her for a "joy" ride today, bumped the rev limiter to 7000. It's pretty strong. At any point in first gear, if I drop the hammer, it breaks loose, can shift soft to second and floor it again and it will spin again thru most of second. The cool thing is that even with the spinning, it is grabbing and still pulling really hard. If it wasn't for the rear end walking around a bit, I wouldn't know it was breaking loose. I can't wait to see what it does with my "y" pipe uncapped. I know my 3" single exhaust is choking back a bunch of hp.

no doubt. I got lucky, (if you can use that term after breaking your own motor), but I had just gotten a decent Christmas bonus from the job the day before I destroyed it. Otherwise, mine would have been a lot slower process...or slower motor

Was 25 degrees this morning and the Z has a busted heater core so she's in the garage! I finally got my custom lengh push rods delivered and installed. Went with Manton's push rods, the guy seemed really cool and sold me the thick wall ones for the normal price of the thinner ones. The length appears to be perfect based on the roller pattern on the valve stem. That's about the only update I have. Been either really cold or wet so she hasn't been out much in the last week or so. Will lite the tires up this weekend I am sure. Still only have about 300 miles on it so haven't got crazy yet. Still have the 6k rev limiter in it. Finally finished my CV adaptors today so will do that conversion soon. Can't believe my halfshafts have held up this long.

You should have hid the white bucket! Makes it look like you had to wet the floor to get it spinning.

I figure there are quite a few guys here that would pay you to build motors for them!

I agree 100 percent. But would hate to discourage the "kids" from doing what I did. An 18 year old potential gear head just can't wait 4 years to drive his toy. Just dont' want to scare them off in fear that they turn into video gamers instead of potential future car guys. Yes, I spent more money this way, a couple grand easy, but I enjoyed the car the whole time. I'm done, not trying to start trouble with the king.

Is it ok to agree yet disagree? I agree that financially, the process defined here is the best. But, I have really enjoyed the process that I have taken my Z thru. It has went from a primered up stocker which of drove and enjoyed, to a pretty red stocker which I drove and enjoyed, to a stock powered 350, to some decent heads and bigger cam etc etc. My first 13.9 pass was a break thru, my first low 13 pass was a break thru, my first 12.9 was a break thru, then 12.6, then 12.3 and who knows what she'll do with this new stroker (thanks again Grumpy). Sometimes the journey is half the fun, my car still needs a million things and that's what keeps it interesting. For me, I would have been discouraged and probably never got here if I had tried to do it all at once. I think it has to do greatly with your personality and style of doing things. Big picture, I agree that the one build to perfection is the best way financially but I can't see it bringing near as much fun and adventure as I have had in the last 3 years with my project. Just my two cents, not trying to ruffle any feathers. I love you guys!

Thanks guys! I was driving home yesterday and there is this slight "S" turn that I normally roll into mid rpm's in third gear and then hammer thru it. I have been doing it for years, tried it yesterday and had to get out of it real quick. "Things" started happening a lot quicker than they did 2 months ago!

Funny you should ask, I was gonna post today. She is really coming around now. Have driven to work for the last 3 days, today included, have about 250 - 300 miles on it. Carb is just about there, running a little on the lean side at cruise so I will bump up my primary jets one more size and see how that is. Overall, feels really good, very driveable, gobs of torque and revs very smooth. Power brakes don't work that good at idle but I kind of expected that. Soon I will pull out my 6000 rev limiter and see what she has to say up top. Overall, very pleased. Thanks Grumpy!

Yah, looking at those, they incurred a pretty substantial initial investment to be able to sell at these prices.

I didn't CNC mine, but JTR probably is. To get the price down, they probably run a batch of them at a time. Just guessing though.

Speaking as a guy who runs a machine shop, I would be surprised if you get the parts made for less than double what JTR sells them for. I made my own but just because I enjoy piddling on the machines. To have my cost at his prices, I would have to set up a production run and make quite a few. If the price is even close, buy from JTR, he has done a great service for this community and I'm sure is not getting rich off he adapters. just my 2 cents, no offense meant.

The line only melted because the ford hard plastic line doesn't route very good, has to be tied off to keep off the header. I forgot to tie it off one time so she melted.

The braided line is not my idea, just the adapters. I'm sure the braided line will be more resistant to melting than the plastic and should prevent flex as well. Lots of people are using them, but as far as I know, was no good, cost effective way to connect one to the ford master/ chevy slave setup.

I am using the ford F150 master with the camaro slave. Had used the plastic F150 clutch line, mine got melted so I went to replace. Dealer wants $54.00 before taxes so I went after another solution. I found that you can now buy the adapters to go from the slip in fittings to the -4an but they are like 50 bucks and you need 2. Lucky for me I run a machine shop so I made my own. For ease if manufacture, I just put a 1/8 pipe thread in mine, bought 2 adapters for $1.50 each and spent $20 on the braided line. These are prototypes so I will have to test. If it works and there is interest, I could probably produce these for around $15.00 each (2 required). That would not include the adapter, o-ring and roll pin but I'm sure that would be easy to track down. Let me know what you guys think.

It's 90% street use so I would like to maintain any MPG's possible, (within reason)

Thanks Doc, will take a look at it when I get home.

Interesting. So, do you close the front butterflies all the way or is it a balancing act between the two. I am not in front of the carb right now but don't remember seeing and adjustment screw on the secondaries???

Drove it to work friday, cruised around during lunch, all in all put about 70 miles on it. Motor feels good, revs smoother than the stock 350 (and faster). I can tell it's stronger already, cant' wait to uncap my restrictive exhaust and see what she does. Still trying to get this holley 750 dp dialed in. When I first fired it up I was getting about 10 lbs of vacuum at idle, now it is hanging around 5 which of course had my power valve staying open and running rich. I put a lower power valve in it as a quick fix but figure something else is wrong for the vacuum to be that low. Question, when setting the idle screws on a 750 dp, do you treat the ones on the secondaries the same as the primaries?