HICKL

Ya, I'm with you on that, but how much mechanical advance should the stock HEI give me. 5 degrees, 10 degrees, 15 degrees...etc.

Hei distributer, vacuum advance un-hooked, how much mechanical advance should I get from idle to 2500-3000 rpm. I have done much reading but get inconsistant or confusing answers. Maybe I'm not smart enough to ask the right questions. Thanks Jeff

Awesome Phantom. Thanks for the tip. Jeff

Ok Houston, I know there's a few of you Z guys around here. I finally got my Hybrid on the road and would like to check out some others and swap stories/ideas. I live on the North side and there are a few decent Sat night car gatherings every weekend. One in the woodlands, one in Humble. Lets invade one of these or get together somewhere.

I would like to sidebar this discussion. In regards to the fuel pump in the rear, JTR says to use the existing wires that are back there and just splice into them up front. I have not found them. I guess they run inside the body, but where? I know I can run new ones but I would rather not. (thats why I temporarily put the pump op front.)

I didn't think about the vent. I think mine is closed off. I'll pop the gas cap off and go hammer on it

If I stay in my Quadrajet secondaries for more than a second or two, I start running out of fuel. I have a carter fuel pump mounted at the front of the car (just temporary ). I know I need to move it to the back. I am prepared to change out the steel fuel line, I believe it is 5/16 ish right now. For a mild 350, 300 hp tops, what size fuel line do I need to feed it? Will 3/8 be sufficient? Thanks

Thanks for your help guys. Turns out one of the secondary metering rods had fallen off the bracket and was not opening. I love it when I have easy problems!!!

Cool, we'll see. Does anybody no how to visually tell if it it a 650, 750, or what? A guy told me once at a swap meet, but I can't remember. Something about the shape of the secondaries.

Thanks guys, will check both things when I get home. I had to pull the carb apart and clean it to get it to work so it is possible that I missed something.

First real drive today, 25 miles to the muffler shop, just picked it up. Sounds pretty good. I got into it once (new motor, trying to be nice) and when the secondaries opened up, it fell on its face. I have a borrowed quadjet that the dude says is a 650. Were should I start to try and fix this? My motor is 350, flat top pistons, mild cam, stock heads, performer intake. I wonder if the carb is really a 750...still should handle it right? I know this is an open ended question, but any input will be appreciated. Jeff

I know there is a ton on info on this but I am in a hurry. I planned on doing a 3" single all the way back and running thru a turbo muffler. My exhaust guy is telling me that he can't bend the 3" sharply enough in the back were it makes that S curve. Is this true? Is a 3" single overkill for a mild (250-275hp-ish) 350? Please help, I hope to get this done tomorrow. Any critisizm of further questioning is welcome.

Drag that sum buck to Texas, I'll help you finish it!

OH Fiddlesticks! There not problems, just oppertunities to incorporate creativity and ponder solutions while blankly staring at the spouse, boss, or whoever may be boring you with non-Z related conversations.

Cool, I'm there dude 8)

Well..for the sake of testing, that's just what I did. I took it out and the noise went away. You cannot easily space it down from the car like I had thought because the bracket is welded to the car and the bolts to remove it come in horizontally, not vertically. Someone told me that the car would behave "funny" without the sway bar. Is this true? I only drove it down the street so I can't tell.

Thanks guys, I get off work soon so I can go home and figure it out instead of just thinking about it all day.

If you raise the rear of the diff, wouldn't that lower the front thus worsening my problem? Just trying to picture it in my head.

Did you just heat and bend the sway bar or is it more scientific than that. I didn't look closely at it, but could you ad spacers between the sway bar brackets and the floor of the car to drop it down a bit? Just brainstorming at the office.

Pretty sure, I could see slight damage and shinny marks on the u-joint where it had been hitting.

Took her around the block for the first time and everything seemed well untill I let off the gas. Clunk clunk clunk! When I let try to let the motor slow down the car the drive shaft hits the rear sway bar. On accel or coasting it is ok, just does it on hard decell. Why!!! I have pretty much replaced all the bushings in the car, the differiental mount is new. It is the u-joint adapter that bolts to the diff that is hitting, it is the large chevy style u-joint. I got the driveshaft from a guy on this site that had it in a 240. Please help

I borrowed a quadrajet to run my motor untill I get my projection hooked up. Anyway, I don't know what it's from or what size it is. How can I tell? I got the car running last night but need to do some tuning, it would help if I new what I was working on!

Cranked her up last night for the first time and she ran pretty good. Of course I had missed the timing by one tooth, but I expected that. Ran her for about 30 minutes to break in the cam and stuff then had some beers. All I got to do now is get a clutch master cyl and line and she is ready to melt some rubber.

Its a 76. Do you have a V8 in your car?

So am I to assume no-one has succesfully done this yet on a 350 car? VRjoe, I am trying to so the same thing, but I'm not sure it will fit. Not enough room between the valve cover and strut tower and too tall if mounted over valve cover. (at least thats how it looks to me). anybody done this????anyone???