HICKL

How long would you expect it to take for them to get fully seated. They are not chrome or anything special like that.

motor only had about 2000 miles on it. Compression was a little low on some cylinders (135 ish) I pulled the motor out and went thru it and everything looked good. The rings had an even wear pattern and everything. I went ahead and re-honed it and put new rings again. Just put motor back in last night. The pcv hose would be a little oily, not dripping or anything. I know I was getting some blowby the rings because if I squirted a little oil on the top of the piston the compression would come up to 155. I hope it's right this time.

My car will sometimes blow some smoke when I let off and get back into it (like between 2nd and 3rd gear), but it doesn't seem to do it under load. I have aluminum valve covers with no baffles in them. Can the vacuum hose going to the pcv valve suck oil or oil mist back into the carb enough to generate a puff of smoke?

You are absolutely correct, my old 290 cam had a .050 duration of 224. I'm not sure on the 306 but I don't think it's much more. The old fart that built it calls it an "old 350 horse Vette cam". Says it's his favorite cam for the type of motor setup I have. We'll see if he knows his stuff Thanks again for all your input Jeff

I had a 465/290 cam in it and it seemed very mild. No lope at all, had decent torque but not much on top. I have the motor pretty much ready to drop in again so I will probably go on and see what she does with this one. I have some 0-60 times and will be curious to see if I gain or loose. I appreciate all your input. Jeff

I am running flat tops but don't think I will get 10.5:1. Well see how she runs. Why no vacuum advance? Cuz the initial will be so high?

Awesome, thanks. My machine shop guy put in a 467 lift 306 duration cam that he claimed would work really well. we'll see! Thanks Again. Jeff

Does anyone have any flow bench data on stock open chamber SBC heads (77 vette motor). I am trying to determine optimum lift for my cam and don't have a flow bench. I know there is a lot of factors involved, but this would help.

I slotted mine forward as much as I could and used every bit of it to clear my HEI. As far as using the stock hood latch, I think you will create more problems than you will prevent. I tried to find a way and finally gave up and fabbed the JTR model. Just my 2 cents Jeff

I had decided to maybe sell my Z but in the process of that I noticed it was consuming some oil so know I must fix. The engine is freshly rebuilt, maybe 4000 miles on it tops. I pulled my plugs last night and most were wet. I did a compression check and get anywhere from 155 to 128, most being in the 135 range. On any low cylinder I can add a squirt of oil and the compression jumps up to 155. What went wrong? Did my machine shop do a bad hone job? I plan to go see them today and would like some theories on why I have this problem.

Just curious, do you know what your 0-60 times are? I am trying to estimate my 1/4 mile times. Just looking for a reference point. Thanks Jeff

If your distributer is not tight enough, it can and will retard itself when running (happened to me). Counterclockwise at the distributer will advance it.

My brother took some with his camera and will send to me.

Are 73 240 bumpers the same as the 71's and 72's?

Title says it all, went to the Super Chevy Show in Houston and there was an 8 second 240 there (at least it had a 240 shell on it). Pretty wicked ride though. He said it would go faster but car gets too loose over 150 mph.

I just did my 76, don't know if it's the same. I know the entire computer and harness connected to it came out of mine. Beyond that, I had to use a schematic to sort out the wires on the passenger side. Any specific questions, I may can help.

Marginably. With my stock system, it would take it a little while to get things comfortable in 100 degree weather. My frankenstien system is having about the same results. Don't want to judge the new setup yet as I am still tuning it in.

Yes, I pulled a vacuum.

It's nothing fancy, just plumbed in a doughnut style compressor to my original system but it works. If anybody is trying to do this I can possible help (as long as it doesn't get too technical, I am by no means an AC guy) All I know is don't open the high side while charging

I'm not far from you Nismo, I live 5 miles east of hwy 45 north on fm242. You trying to get a gathering? Jeff

260ZRED, What part of houston are you in? I run a rather large machine shop in Humble (about 20 minutes from downtown). Anyway, I made all my brackets and would be happy to help out. Jeff

What size wheels and tires are you running? Looks great!

I just went through this and tried to the point of scratching the crud out of my new engine bay paint . I could not get it to fit. For me, there was not enough room to mount it down low and it's just too big to mount over the valve cover. Hood would not close. I gave up. My motor is in the JTR position. If anybody out there has succeded at this, I would like to know.

I think I only have about 24 degrees total advance. around 18 with the vacuum and about 6 to 8 more when mechanical kicks in. Of course my started crapped out last night when I was trying to check all this out so I didn't get very far. Will pick up were I left off today when I get off work if the wife will let me Thanks for ya'lls input.

Thanks guys, I'm only un plugging the the vacuum advance for test purposes. My motor is running porely at high rpm's and when I checked my timing at the crank with a timing lite, it only advances about 8 degrees when the mechanical advance is fully kicked in. So, my base is 10 and it only goes to 18 at 3000 rpm or whatever. From what I have read online, it should have more mechanical advance than that. Just chasing wild geese here. Jeff