Dragonfly

Thats the idea I like best... ^^^ Beyond that IMHO for equal dollars applied ($5000) you will have a more forgiving and streetable engine/car if you go turbo. I personaly have a 3.0L stroker that I built (but Dave Robello had his fingers into at one time) and if you want a car that slaps you in the back the second you touch the throttle and roars at the same time the stroker is the way to go. Dragonfly

A little more info on the car and the engine would be helpful. Any way here is a guess for you and something you can look at. If the car "runs" as you are starting it but dies when you let go of the key you may want to check the wires on your ignition switch to make sure that when the key is in the "run" position that you are getting power through the system. To me it sounds like your car thinks the key is in the "ACC" position when you let go of the key. Dragonfly

If you go to the junkyard and get the inner, outer pieces and the spacer for both sides you will be fine, they will work (the spacer is 2" long and has a letter stamped on it). Make sure to check for a letter 'A', 'B' or 'C' on the outside of the housing (were the stub axle goes through) then use the spacer that has the matching letter. The stub axle may be a commonly broken part on high HP cars (400+ hp and tq at the wheels) but is very rare in predominantly stock Z's, I would do some investigating as to why it broke if it were my car. Dragonfly

It must be something like San Diego... we have busses and a trolley system as long as you have all day, and don't mind a tour of some of the less desireable neighborhoods. Dragonfly

If you are going to be in La Jolla before the sun goes down (able to go out that is) I would recomend that you have dinner and listen to music here http://www.clayslajolla.com/clays-lajolla.html (7955 La Jolla Shores Drive 11th FL atop Hotel La Jolla, La Jolla 858.551.3620) Do your best to be there before sunset so you can see the amazing view and watch an amazing sunset, they also have live jazz. If you would prefer something a little more low key (and Mexican food) try Alfonsos http://entertainment.signonsandiego.com/places/alfonsos-la-jolla/. Dragonfly

I had one like that somewhere but I am not sure where it is anymore. I also have about 4 of the 240Z switches which are most likely what MJLamberson has. Dragonfly

I don't have a picture like you want (and I see some have already been posted for you) but I do have these pictures from my 72' 240Z. This is the "front" dash harness. "front and rear" deash harnesses together. dash harnesses with engine harness. dash, engine and body harnesses. All harnesses together but at a different angle. As you will notice all the connectors have a tag on them, each tag identifies what it plugs into and what it is. Some of the wires you see in these pics may not look correct and that is because this harness(s) is modified and some wires had been removed and some new ones have been installed (second pic). At the time that I disconnected each plug I wrote out the tag and hung it, when everything was removed I laid it all out like you see in the pictures then I drew a wiring diagram so when it gets all put back into hard to reach and see places I can insure everything is put together correctly. Dragonfly

They are not "warped" they are made that way. The thickness is because you have one bolt or stud that is used to hold both a part of the intake and a part of the exhaust. When you install them make sure that the concave part of the washer faces the manifolds and the convex side faces the nut or bolt head. One last word of advice on those... make sure to use a high quality anti-sieze on all the threads, you will thank yourself for that in the future (and do not over torque them). Dragonfly

It does (if by ignition you mean where you turn the key on the steering column) but only in the sense that it suplies power to the starter relay that allows the starter to engage and use the battery power (large positive cable from the battery). The wire you are concerned about has nothing to do with the car being able to start or not start by push/bump starting. You could remove the starter completely and connect the battery cable to the other wires that share the lug on the starter and still bump start the car (but that is verrryyy not recomended - only making a point). Any way as stated above it is time for a new seliniod at the least or a new starter. Dragonfly

When I have done that I have loosened all of the guides so I could move them around as needed. I also (actualy) removed the guides first and cleaned out all the old grease and put in new grease. It is a dirty job and can be a royal PITA but I think it is worth it. BTW use a felt marker and mark all the adjustment screws and nuts prior to loosening (just draw a circle around them) this will help you get it back in alignment when you have the new glass in. Dragonfly

I did not. I'm not sure how to go about it. Could you give a discription of how it is done? Dragonfly

Jon, you were right again... I actualy decided to check prior to racing the car and found that I was getting some binding so I pulled out the offset bushings and re-installed the correct bushings. I raced the car today and it went well except cold tires = slip and slide. Once I had some heat in the tires things went much better but still about 7 seconds off TTOD (not counting the shifter cart). In a nutshell for anyone looking at what I had done to relocate my wheels... Don't do it, it will cause binding and probably break something before long. Dragonfly

Your in a pretty tough spot there, depending on the requirements in Reno you may not be able to get it to pass without the air pump hooked up and working but its hard to say for sure. I am lucky in that I have a friend that owns a shop and allowed me to adjust my carbs and tune my car myself on his smog machine (just paid him for the use of his machine) you probably will not be able to get anyone to do that for you because of liability. Most likely the reason the two shops in town charge so much is because they do not know how to work on SU's and are going to charge you by the hour to monkey with something they know nothing about while hoping to stumble into getting it within the requirements. Try getting the car evaluated to pinpoint the problem then if the problem is with the carbs see if you can purchase a tool called the "color tune". With a color tune you can much more acurately set up your carbs on your own without a smog machine but be aware it can be a PITA to use. Dragonfly

I would like to see what your readings from the smog test were, that can give a lot of information as to what is causing you to fail. If your smog test are like the ones here the operator is not allowed to tell you anything that can help you as it creates a conflict of interest. I can tell you however that your carbs may may not be the cause of your failing. If you are completely stock and you have changed your plugs to a hotter or colder range than stock it can cause you to fail, if the car is tested with the engine below normal operating temp (usualy 180 degrees) you can fail smog, if you did a tune up with an oil change and an engine flush prior to the smog test it will cause you to fail, if you have a problem with your egr valve, air pump, vacuum lines, or timing you can fail smog, if at some time in the past someone modified the air injector tubes in the exhaust manifold or if you have holes in your exhaust pipe you can fail smog. There are countless other things as well that can cause you to fail a smog test. At this point for you I would recomend that the next bit of money you spend on the car is to have a mechanic that you trust put your car on an exhaust gas analyzer (smog machine not involved in the states smog program) to have it evaluated so you can pinpoint the real problem then you can put your energy into fixing the real problem, because from your discription of the carbs they are in good enough condition to pass. If the carbs do need adjusting the mechanic can adjust them while on his machine and tell you exactly what to do to insure you pass on a state machine. Dragonfly

Pull the dome's off the carbs and remove the pistons, pour out the damping fluid to either re-use or properly dispose of and place the piston's (knowing which one goes to which carb) on a rag with the needle orientated so that it is not hitting anything. Pull your choke so the jets are pulled down as far as they will go then using a good flashlight look into the jet of each carb and see if you are able to see any fuel. If you do not see fuel the problem is between the float bowl and the carb, if you do see fuel the problem is between the jet/needle/piston assembly. It would be virtualy impossible to have a vacuum leak so big as to not pull fuel out of the jet if everything else is ok. Something I have seen many times on these carbs is people using fuel line between the float bowl and the carb that is not the correct line, this will almost always cause a problem in particular (which I have seen before) if someone uses vacuum line in place of fuel line. The vacuum line will break down on the inside from the fuel and it will completely block the fuel from getting to the carb. That whole thing is made even worse if the car begins to run hot. Dragonfly

The rebuild kit they sell is a very good and complete kit but it can not replace the worn out aluminum where the throttle shaft goes through the carb(s), that has the potential to cause you to fail smog once again. I would recomend that you talk to them on the phone or by email prior to ordering the kit and let them know exactly what you are having problems with, it may even be helpful to provide them with the numbers from the smog test that way they will be better able to let you know if the kit will acomplish what you want or if you need to purchase "bushed" carbs. The bushed carbs are more money but should probably last you untill the planet runs out of gas as long as you take care of them (of course that is my opinion based on the carbs I got from them and the quality of rebuilding and bushing). Remember part of making a purchase from someone is they are somewhat obligated to answer all your questions for you to the best of thier ability and as truthfuly as possible. So ask them every question you can possibly think of to make you feel comfortable that the purchase you make from them will take care of the problem you are having. Dragonfly

Unfortunately I also heard that this is the first vette that will cost 6 figures straight from the factory. I hope I'm wrong on that, I would love to see a car under 6 figures straight from the factory that can spank alot of the exotics. Dragonfly

When you change the mixture nut on the jet it raises or lowers the jet in relation to the "bridge" in the throat of the carb as well as were it sits on the taper of the needle. Both of the above will have an effect on how the engine idles as well as how rich or lean the engine runs with the engine at partial throttle. Most likely you have several problems with the carbs due to thier age more than anything else. You will probably find that the piston under the dome is covered in a sooty varnish, the air holes in the dome are probably partialy clogged, the balance hole in the body of the carb between the piston and the throat is also probably partialy clogged, the needle may or may not be seated correctly in the piston and if you see any wear marks on the needle then it should be replaced. Carefuly pull the jet and check it for wear at the top edge where the needle goes in at, if you find the hole is out of round the jet needs to be replaced. At the throttle shaft (accelerator shaft same thing) take a small amount of axle grease or similar heavy grease and apply it all the way around the shaft against the body of the carb on both sides of both carbs. Try starting the car and see if that changes the behaivior of the idle and if you have to adjust the idle nuts under the jets. Since you have the video and it does not make since to you to ahead and email or call Ztherapy and tell them what you are encountering and that the video has not been able to help you. One last thing... most likely you will not be able to pass smog with the carbs that you have on the car right now because you will not be able to get them to run well enough throughout the range of the smog test without having a gas analyzer to help you adjust and tune them. I could be wrong on that though because I do not know what the requirements are where you live. Dragonfly

Since the paint lifted it makes me think that he painted over old paint that was not compatable with the new. For the price of $1000 plus materials I would have expected him to strip off the old paint, apply bondo and prep as needed then spray a quality paint job on the car. Also for $1000 I would not expect him to block the car, do extensive body work or rust repair nor would I expect him to provide a show quality paint job. Even a pro with all the right tools and the right facilities would not be able to break even by only charging $1000 to do a job that would include block sanding and a paint job that shows the value of block sanding. With that said he should have made good on the expectations of a $1000 paint job, you could have gotten a better job done for $599 at local volume car repair and paint place. I personaly would not ask for the money back on the product he used although I would ask for all the remaining product back, but I also would not pay him the remainder of the money unless he is willing to make it right for you at no additional cost and you not paying untill you are satisfied. Just remember that $1000 is about 12 hours worth of work in that area of work so you need to adjust your "satisfied" meter accordingly. Dragonfly

If it was that easy no one would be asking questions about them. No matter what adjustment you make it will effect something else. Most likely the reason that your car runs better with the nut screwed all the way up is because you have a huge vacuum leak at the accelerator shaft (the shaft that the butterflies are mounted in) this will cause enough air coming in down stream from the needle and jet to offset the air/fuel adjustments made with the jet adjustment nut. Probably the best place still yet to get information on the SU's is from Ztherapy, if you can not find enough on their website give them a call or better yet purchase thier video of how to set up and tune SU's. Dragonfly

I will have to go out and measure them as I don't recall off the top of my head. As far as sourcing them I made them out of out of 6061 T6 aluminum stock in the ZRaceProducts machine shop. If these prove to be a problem for me as Jon is suggesting I could be incouraged to send them your way for the cost of shipping, but I have to experiment around with them some more first prior to making a decision on that. I am always more than happy to learn from someone elses lessons before making them my own when I can. I will be reading the above link and will pull my springs and run the suspension through its full travel several times to check for any binding or undue stress. If I find anything that concerns me I will probably be sending some offset bushings to Terry. Dragonfly

I know what you are saying and the reason I did this and that I feel it is ok is because of the hiem joints, they seem to allow enough rotation during wheel travel to not cause a binding situation (in combination with the pillow ball at the top in the camber plates). I replaced my broken half shaft the other day and I am going to be autocrossing the car on the 16th. I may find out the hard way that you are correct or it may have enough to not bind and work out just fine for me. I will see and let everyone know. Dragonfly

Here's how I did mine. ZRaceProducts LCA with standard size aluminum bushings. ZRaceProducts LCA with offset aluminum bushings. Both sets of aluminum bushings side by side. Dragonfly

This may seem obvious but did you compare the old starter to the new one to make sure they both look the same in particular the depth that the starter sits inside the bellhousing? That would be my first check, if that checks out fine I would set the new starter on the floor and using jumper cables carefuly engage the starter and see if the starter gear moves to the top of the head and spins. If you don't know how to do that just take it back and ask them to test it or replace it with a different one. Dragonfly

If you find it has come off and you want to put it back on make sure that the cam lobe is pointed upward like in the photo. It will take a little bit of work to get it back on as well as the very real posiblity of adding a little of your own blood to the oil. If you do not have a valve spring compressor that will work with the head on the engine the best way to put the rocker back on is to take two fairly large flat head screwdrivers, place the tips on either side of the spring retainer (make sure your lash pad is in place and facing the correct direction first) with the shafts coming back towards you on either side of the cam lobe. Using one hand to raise the backs of the screwdrivers and the cam as a pivot point to push the spring down carefuly put the tip of the rocker onto the lash pad and the back of the rocker over the pivot, now release the pressure on the screwdrivers and everything should be good. It would also be a good idea at this time to check your valve lash on all your valves. Also if the screwdirvers just will not stay on the spring retainer go ahead and lower the pivot as far as you can and you may be able to put the rocker on without compressing the spring any but if you do that you absolutely have to reset your valve lash on at least that one. Dragonfly