Dragonfly

Interesting... Z. I think your link has a problem though maybe this will work better http://www.autotraderclassics.com/details?%20adId=90361515 Dragonfly

Simple answer is Yes you can run a positive deck height. A guy by the name of Bob Hanvey did a great right up a few years ago about strokers, I am fairly sure it is on Hybridz but if you can't find it here do a google search you should be able to find it. Oh yea it is several pages long and some very good reading. Dragonfly

Disclaimer: I am going on hearsay and what I have read with the following comment... so please prove me wrong. From what I understand there are no "timing gear sets" for the L series engines and the reason is because of the distance between the crank shaft and the cam shaft, this distance is much greater than in a V8 and does not have the width needed to place the idler gears required for a gear set. Now this I know: There is an idler gear set that can be purchased for the L series engines that replaces the tensioner shoe with an idler gear and the plastic/metal giudes with idler gears, this system requires manualy setting the timing chain tension and therefore frequent testing and resetting but it reduces (to a small degree) parasitic drag in the engine and it allows more accurate timing with a higher red line when used in conjunction with upgraded ignition etc. etc. In a nut shell what I am saying is that if your engine is not built to an extreame degree (balanced, blue printed and full of forged parts $$$) this idler gear set is nothing more than a "cool" part that requires extra maintenance and attention. Dragonfly

Walk around and look for a trail of ants... they like the maggots are part of natures corpse cleanup crew. Of course the dog idea will certainly work as long as there is a dog somewhere for you to use. Dragonfly

Did you use a primer for aluminum? I did a great paint job on mine and the paint peeled in less than a year. I cleaned it all up used an aluminum primer and painted it again and it has been several years and still looks great. BTW you did a great job of making that valve cover look better than new. Dragonfly

The market is a tough one right now, but your car has a reputation outside of Hybridz so that should help. I agree with the others that the car should be sold as a whole, at the very least if you part it out it is going to take longer to clear the room needed for a new project. Good luck Dragonfly

Just talked to Kevin (owner of the stolen RX7) tonight, he is pretty upset about his car being stolen. Kevin and I were talking a few days before the car was stolen about him getting involved in autox. I am keeping an eye out for it as well. Dragonfly

Go to http://www.zraceproducts.com and send Jerry an email with your request. He has several sets of bolt in camber plates, but be aware you still have to do some cutting in order to install them. Dragonfly

I was more impressed with the first one... the second one I think the ferarri was just following along to get the "from behind footage", there were several times he had to slow down to avoid hitting the honda. Dragonfly

I did a quick check and you are right, it was supposed to have changed back in 2008 but was extended to 2010, "it" being long term capitol gains (they would have gone to 20% if the 15% had not been extended). So with that you should be fine although IMHO you are selling off low by selling at this time. Dragonfly

Is this still part of the game? I hope so, if not you need to do some more studying on stocks and taxes before you take a hard hit. Dragonfly

Sounds to me like you found some of the non-liquid tight electrical devices on your engine. A lot of searching and reading will tell you specificaly which pieces to open up and dry as I don't know them myself (carbed and simple), but I can tell you if it has a wire attached to it and a way to open it up... open it up and make sure it is dry and not corroded and has a good ground. As a side note it is always best to try something you have never done before in daylight much less chance of an "oh crap" situation. Dragonfly

Judging from the sketch in AK-Z's sig I'm thinking your right. I have motorcycle mirrors on my Z (from a Ducati 999) and love them and the looks, I think the R1 lights would look great if they look anywhere near as good as the sketch. Dragonfly

The last half of this video lets you hear what my stroker sounds like, if yours sounds like this you are fine. Dragonfly

Can't help you at all with your question/problem but I can suggest one of these, they come in very handy when you are on your back under the dash. You can pick one up from Dixieline Lumber for less than $20. I have used several different types in my daily work and this style is by far the best and of course you have both hands free. They are generaly called "head lights" and this model uses two AA batteries and last for about 40 hours before requiring new batteries. Dragonfly

As I recall you also brought a set of jackstands, a floor jack and tools... you knew what was going to happen... janaka, welcome to the "found the weak link" club. I ran several 1.8xx, a few 1.7xx and what probably would have been a 1.6xx (60' times) if I had not twisted mine out. My U joint. I did a little more than break the U joint, this is how the replacement fit. I saw in your pictures that you managed to twist your half shaft a little more than I did mine. Dragonfly

You have to think of the rear wheels as a pivot point for the car, when you put a wheelie bar on it it's not to stop it from doing a wheelie it is to reduce the pivoting motion and keep more weight on the front tires. Dragonfly

The owner of that car is Hanns the member who started this thread. Dragonfly

First of all I'm glad you got the car back. Now for my comments on anti theft, a number of years ago my ex-father in law installed what was more of a booby trap than a kill switch into his truck... it was not neccisarily dangerous but quite effective. What he did was he added a wire to the coil wire that ran to a hidden switch and then to the drivers seat with some bare wire threaded into the seat and seat back, if the truck was started without the hidden switch turned off whoever was in the drivers seat got the suprise of thier life. I only saw it work once and that was when he tested it on one of my unsuspecting ex-brother in laws, although I did not know what happened until later it was quite entertaining to watch him come out of that truck like he was under attack by invisible hornets. Now I don't know how good of an idea it is to actualy make something like that for your car, for all I know it could cause problems with how the car runs, it's hard to say since poor old Sam was working on something with that truck every day or two anyway. BTW I never drove that truck and you could not pay me enough to try. Dragonfly

I personaly always tighten mine to 80 lb/ft. I tighten in incriments, starting at 40 lb/ft then 60 lb/ft and final torque 80 lb/ft. The other thing that "I" do which could be considered overkill is I make sure the wheel is unloaded (no weight on the wheel) engage the brakes and then torque the lug nuts. Dragonfly

Just saw one on the freeway today the car looks much better to me in motion than when sitting at a car show like the last two that I saw... The one I saw today was all black with some chrome accents and it looked tough as all hell. Dragonfly

It's funny that you put that picture up of the Geo, that is the same car (even the same color) as the one I got my "Camaro headlights" out of. The lights are the same between the two although I think there is a very slight difference in the housing that holds the lights. Also for anyone thinking about pulling those headlights and housings out of a Geo in the wrecking yard... be prepared, it is quite a chore. Dragonfly

A question for you... When you had your car on jack stands did you also install and tighten down all your suspension bushings? If the answer is yes that is the problem. What happens is with the car in the air the suspension is hanging down and in a positive camber, now you tighten everything and that condition is locked in, as the car settles it is either slipping on the bushings or tearing the bushings niether of which is good for your bushings. What I personaly do is if I have the car in the air and I loosen anything in the suspension I will leave it loose after all work is done, set the car down, drive it to the end of my block alternating between hitting the gas and the brakes, pull it back into the driveway and onto a set of ramps so as not to unload the suspension then I tighten everything down. Dragonfly

Here is some information about oil pumps and pressure/volume that should help you. This information and much more can be found here: http://www.aa1car.com/library/2005/us020516.htm It is explained in a better way than I could explain it, but if anyone wants to do even more reading than that by requesting that I write a detailed essay of how viscosity/volume/clearances effect pressure I will BUT understand that if I do take the time and effort to write it all up I will be very short with those who do not read it and then ask stupid questions. Dragonfly

I was out autoxing all day today so I did not get your PM untill a few minutes ago... looks like you did ok. As far as the oil pressure at idle, the stock Z sending unit is notorious for being less than accurate especialy at idle, if you really need to settle your mind get a mechanical gage and use it instead of your sending unit and oil pressure meter. Be aware though that the mechanical gages have an accuracy of 3% full scale so if you get a gage that is 0 to 200 psi it could be off by as much as 6 psi and you only need about 6 psi at idle and no more than 40 to 60 psi at speed (for a non turbo motor) any more than that on your n/a motor and you are just adding parasitic drag and stress on the pump and shaft. Remember what is important is volume, as long as you have enough volume (which you should with a stock pump and you definately would with a turbo pump) 40 to 60 psi at speed is quite capable of protecting your engine. Dragonfly