rayaapp2

http://youtu.be/d39c5m_fJ3k It runs!

RB25DET NEO WIRING! Here goes I have a 2000 RB25det. I removed the ATTESA system. I cut it out and removed the wires going to the ECU. There are a small bundle of them and a relay. If your not keeping it and you probably wont for a Z, cut or tuck. Pin 5 GRY/RED Start Signal Pin 17 GRY?BLU MIL to 12V switched on a 10A fuse Pin 20 GRN/ORG IGN Switch 12V Pin 24 BLK/PNK FP Signal to 12V on the other side of the Relay(was not integrated into the EFI harness PIN 31 WHT/BLUE IGN Switch 12V ECM RELAY Pin 6 WHT/GRN B+ 12V Pin 1&3 WHT/BLK B+ 12V They should all have 10A fuses to each power lead according to the FSM. The Start signal should have a 10A fuse as well! I am running! EDIT: I missed 1 wire that is critical. In the bundle of wires with the big white connector near the Relay packs there is a solid BROWN wire. This is the POWER wire for the IAC and the VCT! I was up and running without this and it took me until today(nearly a month later) to realize I had no VCT, but I also only drove it a handful of times. I then re-adjusted my idle and TPS and I am off and running.

Ive done this swap a few times. The manifold is really close to the steering shaft. You will need to make custom headers if my memory serves me. The stock manifolds nearly fit if you can clear the steering shaft. With a JTR mount kit they probably wont though. The JTR kit will push that engine back and down as far as possible. Also the pan will hang a little low. Ray

did you have to dig up an old thread? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/115212-lt1-t56-on-an-early-block-flywheel-question/ I asked the same question last month and its still within the first three threads in this part of the forum. Pictures and explanation

I was able to modify the shifter linkage rod from my TH350 to fit my 4L60E(some re-bending). I used a 94 truck 4L60E trans fill tube and check stick... which cleared the hood even though it looks really long. My shifter look OE, but its not the 240Z style shifter... It was in the car when I bought it. It could be a Chevy shifter, but someone made custom notches. My trans lines made a couple steps around the trans tapper and then bulkhead and then straight along the top of my frame rail(above the OE brake/fuel lines). There was an OE hole in the radiator support on my 240Z just above the frame rails that they went through and made a 90 into the cooler... For ease The lines were made in 2 piece with double flare connectors. So the part with all bends around the tunnel was separated from the straight shot... It makes it much easier to make and much easier to service if you dont try and make it one large line! But you have get them flared after you cut to length... My photobucket is down for a few weeks for bandwidth use or Id dig up something to share.

I figured it out. The detent spring had way to much pre-load. I powered up the solenoid and it was full lockout. So with nothing to loose and forced with getting a modified spring I just decided to hit the old one with a butane torch... It worked great and now I can shift into reverse without any issues. The other solenoid is a skip shift I guess. So Im not using either. I need to go to the exhaust shop and have my Y pipe modified and Im done!

So Im having a small issue. There is a Reverse Lockout Solenoid. It makes it a royal pain to shift into Reverse! Like major pain! My problem is that I have no idea how it functions. Im going to do some testing and see where that gets me. Research tells me it locks Reverse out over 3mph. So I will apply and remove power and see if what happens I suppose. I dont know if powering it up will un-lock it or lock it out. Then there is the mystery of how I should wire it up. I was thinking of tying it into the brake circuit with a relay, but that could be a pain as I dont always use the brake when shifting into reverse. There isnt anything else I can come up with that would allow me to keep though. And if I remove it there is nothing to protect Reverse from an accidental grinding. Then I realize there is a second solenoid on the transmission... I have no idea what its purpose is. You guys got any thoughts on this?

That seems to be the way to do it. It sucks but it seems after some fiddling its bled correctly. Ray

My pictures are about to go down as my bandwidth at photobucket is almost used up. I think they will come back on the 14th or 16th. I have some more pictures of the "K" member Im building for the transmission mount. I decided a simple loop wasnt strong enough and to add 2 re-enforcement mounts. I figure 4 is better than 2 anyway, and I dont trust 240z/early 260z floor pans or tunnels to hold up very well outside of the re-enforced area even with some extra plates... My RB25det car was mounted that way. I had to tie the cross member to the re-enforced frame rails or the floor would experience the oiling can effect during pulls even with backing plates. Nov 5th Its driving! I like the 6spd a lot!

Here is an interesting problem. http://performanceworks1.com/ls1_clutch_bleeding.htm There is no bleeder on the slave cylinder for the 96 camaro/firebird. The website above is the only source that gives a solution. I really find it hard to believe that the system is self bleeding. I think I am gonna gravity bleed the line to the cylinder and then attempt to follow these instructions and see how it goes. It seems dumb to not have a bleeder on there for servicing.

A few notes: 1. The old starter for the early block is incorrect for the flywheel/bell housing for the LT1 T56 2. The 4L60E driveshaft is correct if you already had that in the car! 3. The transmission cross member is wrong... it will not fit the lt1 t56. The T56 mount sits approx 4" farther back. 4. Hooker headers/slave cylinder fitment issue for the scarab/hooker sbc kit 5. hooker/scarab kits will also have to modify the shifter location or it will hit the console in all forward gears 1, 3, & 5.

I have all the rb26 stuff like the IAC and oil adapter. I just have to install them. If you want to part with those valves I might be interested. I might not need them, but as I found with the RB heads in general, people store the in bad places and valves get bent so its good to have spares and if I can use OE valves to replace a few rather than a whole set Id rather do that and save a few pennys.

custom pistons later and I will be using the RB26 crank for the displacement. Im going with the 26 head because of the CAM options, and the exhaust manifold I want to run fits better on the 26 even though its was designed for both. Im only giving up the RB25 Greddy intake... which is the only downside for me. I like the longer runners and large plenum that will be lost. The 26 has slightly bigger valves as well. If I didnt have the 26 stuff around already I would have stuck with the 25 head(smaller cams unless I spend gobs to convert to solid lifters) and installed reducer studs on the exhaust. As I understand it I will still be limited by the 25 block. But its not much weaker than a std RB26 block. Its the N1 block I would need to go for more power, but I have my power goals set and they should fall within a reasonable range that the block can support. My biggest issue right now is the oil pump. I have collars, and stock RB26 as well as an N1 oil pump. Its so much fun trying to figure out what to run there. Im tempted to spend the money on the Tomei or something else, but Im not convinced they are all that much better... perhaps a dry sump is in my future. I also have to change the RB25 oil filter adapter to the rb26 one to clear the IAC and lines under the rb26 manifold it seems. I have the parts, I just need to assemble and check. Another thing Im considering is having all the valves replaced in this head, but there are a lot of choices there. Ferrea and Brian Crower seem reasonably priced, but I have no idea if they are any good. Its too bad I cannot source reasonably priced OE Nissan replacements. Then Im going to have to re-shim the whole thing Im sure and source shims, which I havent even looked into yet. This is a long project, can you tell?

I have come up with a plan. ill get some pictures. Im gonna use the rb25det gasket. Im going to weld up the cylinder head to match the coolant passage and plug the galley for the vct. ray

Which head gasket do you go with? Im using the cometic gasket for the rb25.. which one will seal better? Or does it matter once the oil passage is plugged?

Ok well there is one answer... I will have to address the feed to the VCT and hopefully make it work with the cometic head gasket.

Ive dug around and now have a head ache from reading all the kids with their stupid responses and misnomers regarding this subject. A bunch of myths and legends out there. Ive seen engines set up this way so I know it can be done, but no one has elected to post the secret sauce, or at least that I can find. I have an RB26 cylinder head and many rb25 bottom ends. The head was for an RB30 build that I opted out of. Im basically building an RB26 engine but Id like to use my rb25 block for ease of installation into the S30. I can use my already custom oil pan and pickup. I have everything but a set of new pistons as far as OE parts go. Is this as simple as bolting the head on? Im concerned about oil passages and coolant passages. I would think that the VCT would have an extra feed port the 26 wouldnt have. I suppose if it does I just need to block it off. If the passages are incompatible that would be a road block. Ive also read tid bits regarding the head bolts being different sizes, but Im running ARP rb25det studs that claim they fit the rb26, so either my ARP box is wrong or more than a few kids are posting information regarding the RB30 blocks. Anyone here played with this combo. Anyone have a solid link they want to toss my way?

That kit doesn't appear to include the upgraded clutch packs... at least from what I can see... it looks like it may come with the upgraded drum though. Im not real good with trans parts names sometimes though. Unless the Alto Rebuild kit comes with the clutch packs? Got a pic? I can sort through a pic of the included parts much easier. All your missing is a really good cooler unit(if you dont already have one for the TH350) and a good torque converter.

Hey Nigel, How is your setup coming along? I pm'd you a while back regarding that modern motorsports kit you purchased. I started to piece together the OE parts from it to build a set myself. I was hoping to get some dimensions from you to complete it, but if your working on a more modern variant that works better, for the prices you listed above I may be in for a set as well! Keep us updated. Ray

I went and got the flywheel. I see. My research was wrong! The cranks DO NOT interchange. Thanks guys

I know the subject has been BEAT to death here and all over the internet. Ive done some searching. The answer is get one of the conversion flywheels I know. What has not been covered or at least I havent found the answer is WHY? Single verses 2 piece rear main seals are the issue. Is it a clearance issue? The Crank shafts are interchangeable as per my research so I have my doubts that its a crank issue. So the main seal area has to be a clearance fitment issue... Im just really curious why no one just mills out the back of a stock flywheel to get the required clearance if thats what the deal is? All I have read is that it doesnt work... I just want to be sure before I shell out $400 for a flywheel. Im tempted to spend the $40 for the flywheel and clutch out of a car at PNP and just chalk that $40 up to research.

The front mounts are Scarab.. Same kit thats in mine as I found out this past weekend.

Im digging 2100 rpms at 70mph not 4500rpms. I had a second issue with the Holley TPS. The sensor was bad. The first kit had no TPS sensor and the second was bad. Holley is sending me a replacement. For now Im using the OE GM sensor which works fine and has more adjustment than the Holley.

It could be called that. I know what it does, but its got at least 3 internet names... LOL Can I assume its just a metered orifice? Im tempted to gut that sucka out for my disc brakes. My hand brake works better than my pedal so I know I got a restriction in volume to the rear. I did some digging here for information on it. Miles, you've commented on a lot of the posts I dug through. My 260Z doesnt have that device as executed on the 240Z. I think it was incorporated up front on the bulkhead, which I also deleted for rear disc brakes and a self proportioning MC(same as used in the 300zx). I wanted to be sure that was indeed what I thought it was before I started disturbing my brake system back there to make more headaches for myself. If its a simple orifice restriction gutting it out shouldnt be to hard? Purchasing a metric union around here is a lot harder in double bubble flare. I have 45 min of driving twice and several days to wait for the order to come in, and if I drill it out I can at least play with orifice sizes, but I suspect from what I read that I need it wide open no "proportioning" for these calipers.

Does anyone here know if the pre-73 240Z came with a metering block for the rear drums? I have several references stating that there is at the T union in the back, but nothing really solid that Id trust. Im referring to a device that restricts volume to the wheel cylinders. Im not sure it would have been warranted for this kind of brake system, or at least with that kind of execution. Item #1... is it really a metering block(pressure regulating valve)?