rayaapp2

Modern MotorSports LLC is up for sale. I know Joseph at Checkered Flag inquired about the business. I had a conversation with Joe, regarding kits, that were no longer available and that brought that conversation up.

Alright, Got my brakes sorted. Found I had connected the tech lead wrong. Fixed that. double checked my power and grounds, and set the tps. I have a working transmission. Shift points are good with me. The kick down takes a little longer than I like. If I drive around in 3rd its really similar to the TH350. I can tell first gear is taller, but the car is so light it eats it up. I installed a B&M 2000 torque thrust converter. Its seems to be stalling a lot lower than 1900-2200 rpms though. Its engaging the wheels around 1400-1500rpms. Im wondering if a 2500 stall would have been better.

That made a difference. Im calling this one chatter! Thanks guys. I still have some light chatter in the brakes, but nothing like before. Even experience techs forget the basics sometimes. This is something I should have thought of from the start, but it eluded me for some reason. Ray

The car had one 240Z stub axle and one 280Z stub axle. I replaced both of them and the bearings. Running the car on the lift and I see and hear nothing from the rear even on braking. I do have a pinion bearing on its way out in the R200 I have in there. I have a whole rear end ready to go with S130 CV axles as soon as I get the funds to purchase the checkered flag adapters. Right now all I have to that problem is an obnoxious noise from the rear that's been there for years. Im surprised it hasnt gone yet, but no vibrations associated with it that I can tell. Both rear ends I have are open diffs. My R200 LSD in my 260Z doesn't have any vibrations even at low speeds... Dexter, I do the same thing... usually while the rotor is on the lathe at work. Since the lathe I was using couldnt make fine cuts well Id hit it with the gasket remover or emery clothe. Im working on doing that now.

As Ive always called it runout is checking for warpage. http://youtu.be/Jfiw-iZcqwA Nominal thickness can be checked with a mic. At least when your checking specs in a book that is how you get them for a RO. I went with the maxima calipers because I had them... a couple pairs of them and the adapter plates from a first gen maxima. If I had zx calipers I would have probably used them, but Im not sure there is much difference. Im not really getting any pull though. Just the shimmy. Today Im going to check and make sure the front rotors arent causing the 'chatter' up front.

Domz, You may be on to something I overlooked. Ive never had a problem with chatter on an s30, but many other cars because of improper cut... Yes chatter at high speed! Slight shimmy... I might try and turn the rotors and scuff some emery clothe over them and see what happens.

I did not personally turn the rotors, but I checked runout before and after confirming they were out .010" and .005" before and now my runout is negligible. Which is why I havent been able to source the issue. The vibration occurs in the pedal and the car at low speed(under 10mph). Its under braking only which tells me its in the braking system somewhere. I do not have any free play in the front suspension. I just replaced the front bearings(and packed them), and I also replaced the ball joints(which were in dire need of replacement). The wheels are definitely torqued correctly. Snap On Torque wrench calibrated within the past year! Its not my tools. Its me or the parts.... lol I had the rotors turned off the car(on hub). Like I said I can only suspect that there is a fault with the brake calipers. I pulled the rear calipers apart and cleaned them out today. I have 2 other sets of front calipers laying around that have low mileage on them for the fronts. Im probably going to rebuild them and slap them on to see if the problem goes away. I just dont see how that could be it. I wish I had a way to drive the front tires on the lift to see where the problem is.

I had to move my driveline loop as well. I almost have this sorted out. I can at least drive it down the block and get to 4th gear. So far Ive had no luck getting it into overdrive. I suspect I need to adjust the TPS, check grounds, double check my wiring, and try again. This transmission shifts a bit soggy from the old TH350. Looks like I will be investing in the corvette valve body and piston springs pending the TCC resolution. Im pretty happy with the gearing so far. I installed new brakes, went through my rear wheel bearings, installed new ball joints, new front wheel bearings, and did the trans swap. That was a bit much at one time I think. I have an issue to sort with the new brakes(a vibration). I also took the time to install my Autometer gauges(Sports Comps). Speedo, Oil, Temp, and Fuel level. Tach was already in there.

I have an odd issue. I installed a set of cardone '80 Toyota Calipers(4 piston solid rotor) on my 240Z with 280Z hubs. The rear brakes are 1982 Maxima calipers and 280zx rotors. Im fairly certain the vibration is from the front as I get hints of it in the steering at low speed. I double checked it wasnt tire related. I do not see anything that would cause this issue. Ive had the front calipers on a shelf for 6 months that were intended for another car I never used them on. I suspect I have a caliper issue. The wheels spin freely so its not likely to be a sticky caliper. Has anyone else had a sticky piston issue with these? I can only suspect that the smaller diameter pistons are sticky or something to that nature that cause an imbalance across the pad... but that seems far fetched. The rotors are true(just turned) and the pads are brand new.

Wiring it up now. Had to shorten the driveshaft 3" and build a new transmission cross member.

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Datsun_Order.html

Harness is ready, Trans is ready... A really simple swap. There is more to this though than the link I posted. You must retain the DRAC unit from the donor vehicle. I did discover that the DRAC wiring was off by 2 wires on my unit, but I was able to determine what they were... So there may be some variation in colors.

I am using the Hooker headers as well. My original set had removable collectors. I bought Mike Kellys set which is the modern version with a few updates. They fit better than the originals, but I cut the incorperated collectors off and used my old school slip on collectors... Which worked great and there was no extra fussing other than the cutting of the collector at the welds. I am replacing my transmission right now and because the collector slips off and I have a removable mid pipe the service is a breeze! I have plenty of room for a kick out pan, but I am not currently running one.

Got my Holley TPS and Torque Thrust 2000 today. Dam Holley kit was missing the Sensor! Summit is sending me a new kit Monday and sending for the defective kit on Tue. Got an updated rebuild kit for the 4L60E yesterday. Think Ill have it in by Next Saturday! Guess I need to order my Autometer Sport Comp Electric Speedo 3989 if I want to see how fast I am going without the cable drive.

2/4 clutch pack... excessive clearance @ OE spec. Aftermarket/updated solution is thicker clutches! The clutches end up slipping and it wipes them out in short order and its gets worse when line pressure is higher. Im not a transmission guy(one who does transmissions for a living), but Ive replaced plenty of 4L60E's in my day as a tech and noted the failures. I checked the date on this transmission and its a 4.3L 94 Medium Van... So unless its been gone through before I need to carefully measure everything out and install the updated clutch packs and band. And that is just the one failure point I know of. This transmission was pulled from a 92 K1500... converted to 2wd. So the history is really unknown. I didnt even realize the SBC and the 4.3 shared the same bell housings, unless the information I got regarding the tag is wrong. Thats a whole box of worms though. What's odd is that from what Ive read the 4.3L models should be missing some 'ears' and this one is not missing any bell housing ears that I see. So the information I pulled could be inaccurate.

Those stand alone units are pretty spendy from what Ive seen. Im trying to keep this trans swap under $600. Id rather spend big money on an LT1 T56. The 4L60E I have has the matching ECU/TCU... It seems like its just a matter of wiring it up and fooling the ECU into thinking it still running TBI but with an HEI pickup. The TBI distributor looks like it uses a 5 or 7 pin HEI module in a smaller housing with different connectors... which is what Id like to confirm. I dig some digging on google and there is a lot of half information out there regarding swaps like this. I believe it can be done and on the cheap, its just a matter of knowing what Im doing. I found this last night: http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f10/how-to-carb-swap-and-keep-the-4l60e-461481/

I came into a free 4L60E as part of a trade for a 4wd unit I had laying around. I have an entire 94 powertrain with harness and ECU. Im debating how hard it would be to wire it up and run with it behind my carbed 5.7L. I have a few concerns that need addressed. I have experience going through transmissions and I dont trust the 4L60E but with all the updates Im sure I can spend the time to go through it and make it stout. Eventually Id like to go T56, but for now Id like to be able to drive the car to car meets or work if need be. Id like to keep my HEI and not use the distributor from the TBI engine(94 truck). The transmission is from an early truck as well(circa 92-93 need to nail down an exact date of production still). Just a guess but Id bet the 94 distributor is similar enough to the HEI output that I could figure out which signal to catch to run the TCU part of the ECU. Im up in the air about dumping my 650 Holley for the TBI still. Im sure I can adapt over the TPS to my throttle linkage to run the TCU as well. Id delete the EGR function completely and not worry about things like the MIL. I dont beleive the O2 sensor is going to be needed either for this even if I ran the TBI(it would just be in open loop all the time). Im sure someone on here has done something like this. Ive seen mention of folks here thinking about doing this a few times. My main goal is to get the TC lockup for the freeway. I have already looked into getting a B&M Torque Thrust 2000 stall converter for it. Are there any pitfalls Im overlooking? In either case Id likely start out without the TBI and run it like that for a while, which means, no Fuel pump, no EGR, no O2, and the older HEI(5pin) in place of the modern distributor. Once I get the transmission in and successfully going Id consider getting the TBI adapter and adapting the fuel system over.. These early GM ECU's are pretty easy to play with, but I dont have a tech II in possession and I dont have a complete picture of how its programmed exactly(which inputs control which outputs). I know that the load(MAP) sensor and TPS are needed for the TCU part and that the ECU and TCU are multiplexed in the same box and have a replaceable prom... beyond that is magic. Ray

What? You thought I was gonna search for your answers? Bwah! I dont donate vehicles. I probably could if I was in a pickle, but I wouldnt know until it was to late. Im not sure what a cylinder head at PNP costs these days and its half off until tomorrow...

Its been a long time since I messed with the F54 engines in stock form... Did any of them run a square port? Id assume that its got an O2 since its a ZX correct? So you need a square port ZX manifold if that exists. Im sure you could just grind the manifold for the gasket in a worst case scenario. On a separate note regarding donation: Do you get full stated value or a percentage of stated value as a writeoff? Ive never gone through those steps, but recently came upon a local deal regarding a MB where the guy was debating selling over donating because the total value of the car was $3000 in best shape and $1000 min according to KBB, and the car doesnt run. He was told he gets only 70% of the cars current value to writeoff which is less than what I was willing to give him. The car was valued at $500-600 after considering maintenance and repairs needed. I have no idea if that is good information though. I just went with it as my offer for the car was still more than what he thought he would get otherwise. It may be different as there is no KBB further back than what? ... 1993 at this point. OH, and the maxima is still in the PNP right now... I can pull that N47 if its helpfull. If youd like to explore that call me this weekend(HALF OFF!)

I have an N42 for sale. OR Why not send one of those P90 heads off and put it on there? I mean Id like the extra P90, but head hunting for one of those stock heads at this point in time seems fruitless when you could just as easily use an N42 or the P90 you have around. That is to bring up the point of how many places are you going to find one of those heads, cause I havent seen an S130 in a yunk yard for about a year now... Or you can give up and sell the car to Frank (who wont mind a torn down engine)... Then there are no worries about the overheating issues to the recipient of the "donation". For $1000 he can get an S13 240sx... it will get similar mileage Im sure, and parts are just as cheap as the S130 and there are a ton of those cars in the wrecking yards. Food for Thought.

I have a radiator shop down here that can repair heads that are damaged like that. The machine shop down the street can do the finish work. They charged me $125 for the repair + machine shop costs($30 for surface) . Ray

Fuel and Coolant leak inspection is part of the inspection for the operators safety, but also because of environmental safety. It makes sense that those stay in play even when the underhood inspection is not performed. Good to know that this was actually enacted though. I saw the Bar Blast earlier this year. Bet its a royal pain to get it resolved at the DMV just like vintage plates...

yep, 1993 S13 CA18DET. I have made a little progress each day on it. I need to go out to the junk yard and search for an S13 hand brake... I dislike the dash unit... Datsport use to have one that was similar to the S13. Series 92's much better! I stopped by T3 on Tue and picked up a few parts as well. Spare tire cover, camber plates, and coil over bits. I plan on picking up rear coil overs and a strut bar from them as well.

http://s81.photobucket.com/user/rayaapp2/library/1972%20Red%20Bluebird see if that works for pictures

Did this today