rayaapp2

They rub the top of the fender. I rolled them pretty good, but the offset is just to far out. Smaller tires would do it, but when Im done I should have 300hp to the wheels so the thick meat has to stay on the back. Car is currently an LD but I have an RB25 NEO waiting to go in as soon as I finish up 2 projects.

PB Blaster Tony? and a torch... that will work well together(sarcasm) Try a "heat valve lubricant" GM no longer stocks the stuff, but local Dodge dealers should be able to get it in mopar form. It penetrates much better than PB and the torch will not burn it all off as its designed to lubricate the heat valve inside of an exhaust manifold! It runs about $15 for a can. Its the best thing Ive found to take apart old turbos. EDIT: I now use CATAPILLER penetrating lube, but like PB it is easily combustible so its not ideal for doing this.

OR The 17" on top are not so good looking to me, but work without rubbing. 225 in the front and 245 in the rear. The 15" Rotas on the bottom rub with 225 all the way around but look a lot better to me.

As a seller/buyer I can only really bitch about those with deep enough pockets that are willing to buy things at prices I cannot afford or I am not willing to pay for something. But what can you do. Its called capitalism.

Tony, You spelled my last name wrong... oh well! ROFL In my own defense I did declare that the "closest" thing to a BOV is that check valve. I only half understood how that thing interacted with the rest of the system before this post though. I knew it was similar to a BOV but not the same(mostly guessing based on its orifice size). Ive never tried to duplicate that valve. In all my swaps Ive left it in place and used nothing else or added a BOV. The biggest issue that continues on is Ben Z's problem. He continues to post having learned little to nothing about what he is working with relying on everyone else to feed him the answers to his problems rather than learn about what he is working with or get any kind of basic understanding(core concept) first. And you should have some core concept of what you have and how it works before you start modifying it. Having little knowledge on the subject I wouldn't take a jet turbine apart and attempt to modify it. It would be an epic fail. What we have here is a classic failure of technician rule #1: 1. Engage brain before hands. Also known as "Think about what you are about to do before you do it!". This rule has a broad meaning and is followed by almost every good technician whether they know the rule or not. This rule has been broken time and time again by Ben. Ill stay tuned to see his future posts. I have to say though thanks to this post I have a little more understanding of that check valve(VCV are we calling it?).

Clint did you use the same 3M 08116 panel adhesive? Just curious. Im getting very close to that point.

300zx Z31 third brake. Panel trimmed a bit to fit.

Its no wonder Tony has an aneurism when he reads these posts. There is no BCDD on the turbo manifolds. period The ECCS system is more complicated than the NA versions and cuts injectors based on RPM and throttle position so the BCDD is not needed! I have N42 manifolds and the P79 manifolds, and the turbo manifolds. The turbo manifold uses a 55mm throttle body. The N42 I just measured is 55mm as well with the same bolt pattern! I do not have a W24 intake to compare with, but all the manifolds I have all locate the TB in about the same position. The linkage positions for the N42 and the turbo manifold(which do not seem to have a casting code on them) are also the same. Now as for you Ben, -BOV do not recirc into the manifold. The stock manifold has something to that effect, but its different as the stock L28et did not have a BOV. It uses a check valve at the #5 runner to bleed excess pressure off, but a BOV works a little different. You should be doing a lot of research on how to run a BOV before you proceed, or at least search for pictures of how some folks do it. You may be headed towards disaster if you continue down this path your on. But its your time and money.

um... no crap Sherlock. And seriously? Why would you use anything on the manifold for BOV return?

Last car I bought was $500 and I drove it home. Last long block I bought from a wrecking yard was $1000. PNP was like $350 dressed. Sold my last L28et with complete harness(the whole harness stripped front to rear), fuel pump, FPM, ECU, VAFM, running with T5 and driveshaft for $1200. 251K miles on the clock but had been refreshed including a new stock turbo. What ever you can find a good motor for is what is reasonable for an engine that is getting hard to find. Sometimes you can find a steal of a deal. I traded a header for a long block less than a year ago. Sometimes you wont find anything local for a year though and one pops up for a grand. Its not like you can find them abundantly anymore so kind of up to you. You might get lucky and find one for less like some of us or you might find the price has sky rocketed!

Im afraid I have to side with Tony. If you cannot conceive what he is trying to portray your missing his point. He laid out what some people do and gave you a hint as to what that BCDD does. Its up to you as to how to execute the resolution. Many folks have obviously done this swap. If you dont know how to make it all work thats on you. This is a classic case of looking a gift horse in the mouth. If you cannot make your own intake, understand how and why things work, cut and splice wiring, or use what ever creativity you have to solve this problem its not on him or anyone else. And you may not be able to overcome this simple problem. I can come up with at least 5 different ways of solving that issue. Think outside the box. Take that stupid rubber ducting out and start coming up with ways to connecting the two. Its really that simple like it or not. BTW in my last turbo swap I was able to mount the VAFM inside the engine bay near the radiator support and run a K&N filter up front. And I didnt have to extend any harness!

Left rear lower control arm hanger: Most would not believe how much toe this can induce! So much work to do... Got my MSA postcard today for the 18th annual Z-Car West Coast Nationals.

Making progress here. Camber plates are in all the way around. Today I dropped the engine, cross member, and transmission out the bottom of the car onto moving dollies and rolled it out. I started to remove all the crap in the engine bay too. So much crap. I dont want to go crazy, but Im going to clean the engine bay up a bit. Im going to tuck the fuse box, and AC components where the battery was. I have a feeling Im still hundreds of hours away from driving it again. Exaggerating, but still many hours of work ahead and Im not counting body work that the body shop will be doing! Im taking lots of pictures. Ray

And another for Gabe @ TTT!

More discoveries. You cannot really see it yet, but its important to note the bottom corner of the inner fender well where it meets the trunk floor is no longer straight but pushed in towards the strut area. Here you can see where I used lighting to shadow the area that 'gave' when the bottom part bent. I outlined it in red paint marker. The top of the strut tower though does not seem to have moved according to my measurements. I discovered all this damage after I pulled the vinyl back for the camber plates yesterday. So I have to deal with some of this damage. The question is how much do I deal with and how much should I leave alone. Im gonna have to straighten out the inner fender well. That's part of putting new fenders on. In order to straighten the strut tower (which is pretty thick metal) I have to cut and remove a small section of inner fender well on the bottom inside of the the strut tower and carefully work the metal and hope I can re-orientate the lower fender well without making messing with the alignment of all the mounts. I also found that pushing the tire forward pulled the rear LCA mount out so I have to replace that as well. What is interesting is that my rear transverse link didnt seem to give, but the right side LCA mount didnt move at all. It must have given at the mounting bolts or something All the chassis mounting points look great so Im continuing on. Here is my opps... arg! I am going to re-form both sides where I made that large hole. Mainly because before I had to beat that area for the IC and intake piping and Id like to have a clean engine bay when Im done as this time the car will be getting painted finally. This is what the beating looks like on the passengers side. Thats all for now. I will be doing the T3 camber plates up front very soon and getting the suspension up front replaced.

UPDATE: 2/23/13 I cut my rear fenders off last night finally. Relieved to cut out the sore on my car for sure. I also removed the inner radiator support. The upper support has zero structure left so it will go too when I figure out how to make that front solid again! This morning I tackled my left rear bent strut. I removed the coil over and bent control arm. That was easy. I found the Tokico Illumina in the rear was still good. However it was completely jambed in at the bottom where the strut bent. After trying a slide hammer and some other methods of removal I gave up and tried out my angle grinder. Opps! To deep. One spendy tokico with less than 5000 miles or so on them destroyed... ARG! Well the bright side is that I now have the perfect shock to use for length to section rear struts! I went slow and watched carefully, but oh well. Spilled Milk as they say. I guess its gonna be a few weeks before the car sits on the wheels again. Ill finish what I can and move on to the body work again. Uploading some crappy pictures from my phone and will post them here in a bit.

I just looked and I have no idea where the post is, but I sent a string of pms off to the folks that have real world experience in such things. I invited you to read over the responses in on of those PM's with Tony. Have a read through it.

Hope that cam is getting you back on the road. That brace will probably break again. It looks like thin metal. I made a similar one and did the same thing. I ended up buttressing it and never had another issue. Think you will make it to MSA? You can be red and Ill be blue lol Then if we can convince Bill we will have white as well... lol

AAAHHHH! Is that a LandRover V8! Nightmares.... So many nightmares! replace head gaskets... no, no more! My personal fav is to use it as a wine rack... which has become very popular with the BMW enthusiasts as well!

Lord didnt I post this same thread last year... After some research into modern turbos for one of my RB engines I came to the realization 'Complexity' is stupid and abandon my research on compounded turbo setups on gasoline powered engines. I and what got me into that line of thought was the same bit too. BD Twin Bee setup I installed for a customer on his 99 cummins. Works pretty awesome on the Cummins. The post is still in the L series section. In the end the amount of money I would spend on materials and time to make such a setup boiled down to MORE than it would cost for a REALLY nice turbo manifold and a REALLY nice Garrett turbo. Id love to see someone do it still, just because its neat. But I have pots on all the burners and one in each hand so it wont be me.

I have the Cosmo EVO 2 on my early 260Z. The Gland nuts are an issue with the Cosmo sleeve. Mine required some grinding to get the collar/Sleeve over the gland nut. Some folks have the round gland nuts and most likely dont have that issue though. I do not have any issues bottoming out, but I sectioned my struts and Im running the Tokico Illuminas. I am running the heavier springs in the back as well. I will be changing them out to 400 in front and 450 ft/lbs in the rear very soon though for the track. IIRC I have 350 in the rear and 300 in the front right now and Im still using what ever the little 'buffer' spring is that came in my cosmo kit. Once you get the shocks sorted out the bounce/oscillation will go away. 15K miles on my suspension and Ive not had any issues, but Ive been told by multiple people that Im going to kill the tokico's though.

Well I have a car that was built about 30 years ago(There are time slips in the car that predate my birth by 2 years! in Bakersfield ca). It has a short tail shaft TH350. With all the updated parts out there for the 700R4 the old myths about them being junk that blows up is kinda just that, myths. I never even thought about he 200-4R. I currently have a tiny cooler, but I have a really nice BIG trans cooler and a temp gauge set aside for someday, but Im still seriously considering the T56.

That's damn sexy... The exhaust not the header. Ive seen that setup on Vintage type 240Z's at Laguna Seca sticking out the rear cowl. I have several OBX exhaust parts. I would never pay full price for them. The work is made to look nice on the outside, but inside isnt so nice at the joints and the tubing is always so thin that it can easily crack(not always but 'CAN'). Making any modifications to the structure can be done, but its so thin and not round that tig welding is a royal pain.

One of my RB25det's acts funny. Greddy intake, stock turbo, Q45 TB, APEXi PFC, and all pretty much stock except the Z32 TT MAF that was grafted on. Ive tried setting the temperature settings, Ive checked for vacuum leaks, Ive unplugged the air regulator, closed off the IAC bypass screw, closed the throttle plate all the way, and gone into the Power FC I have and set the idle as LOW as I can go(500rpms). When the engine is cold it barely idles at 500. When the engine fully warmed up it idles at 1000-1100 rpms. This engine has no idle kickups like AC or P/S pressure switch. I thought I had a faulty Air Regulator, but I unplugged it and used hose crimp pliers on the feed tube. I also crimped the PCV hose. All that is left is the IAC I suppose, unless there is an internal defect on the throttle plate that I havent checked out yet. I thought it might be the MAF settings but it only affects the engine at full warm up so I am looking over the temperature related stuff. Its weird that it idles fine when its stone cold and then warms up and cannot get below 1000rpms. None of my other RB25det have this issue and I acquired the car with this issue. I did go through the entire wiring harness for the FI and checked everything which took an entire saturday thanks to whomever decided to cut the boost control solenoid wires back near the ECU. So I ended up stripping and checking all the wiring connections since I found several other similar foul ups just to be sure my harness is good to go.

Thanks Tony, I slit my throat and wrists, doused myself in gasoline, lit myself on fire and jumped off a 1000ft cliff. I get like 8 of those ass-hats every day 5 days a week. Aggravating. "Sure Ill put those parts on your car, no I dont guarantee anything with your supplied parts sorry, but Ill take your money!, and when it doesnt work I charge 90per hour for diagnosis" The really good ones are the smog inspections, arg!