rayaapp2

Id say you are not experiencing a limp mode, but a failure which is where you need to start your diagnosis. If the ECU has not set a code you are definitely not in any kind of limp mode. Id say the ecu has NOT detected a problem and is simply running with the values its being given at the moment. I too would suspect airflow meter(or vacuum leaks) and then the CAS. Are you making boost before it craps out at 3500rpms?

Im up doing some research. I have a sbc in a 71. The transmission I have is just a plain 3spd that revs out to something like 4 grand at 60mph, which has left me with a toy rather than something enjoyable to drive anywhere. Id like to be able to enjoy the car more often and on longer trips, but still be able to be spirited with it. I need overdrive at least! Ive considered swapping in a manual, but thats a ton of work that honestly Id have no idea where to start. Id want to go with a 5spd so most of the old school options are out with that. Im not really looking at messing with a T5 either. So my options are pretty slim, or my knowledge is slim? Id love to figure out that T56 option, but the total swap price tag might be killer. Those transmissions seem to fetch about a grand all by themselves, then I need to setup a proper clutch hydraulic system for it, and I have no idea if the driveshaft will work from my TH350. My other options would be other automatics? 4L60E possibly? I know its computer controlled, but there are controllers available out there. There use to be a cheap one, but it appears its no longer available. There is always the old 700R4 which has a lock up converter. Its worth mentioning that Id be after a used transmission. The TH350, 700R4, and the 4L60E all have weaknesses. Its hard to tell what I will find second hand, but I can bench build any of these transmissions. So Im here looking to see what other options are out there or if Im looking at the right avenues for what I want out of the car. thanks Ray

Are they not only available to military folks or folks with relations with folks in the military? USAA's website says Im not eligible because of that reason at least. Matter of fact they simply forwarded me to my CURRENT insurance company Liberty Mutual which does not offer classic car insurance.

The E60's I have all came from S2 rb25det motors. Their labels are all pink. But that is the information I was looking for and it explains why it was installed.

So I may have to ask elsewhere, but I thought Id start with the local community first. My S1 rb25det has a N62 MAF adapted to it with a PFC. What I cannot figure out is why the hell someone would go through the trouble of installing the N62 over using the stock J60 or simply using one of the R33 rb25det E60 MAF. I realize the N62 is a local part that can be had at a wrecking yard and that may just be it. I dont know if they swap just never had the correct sensor or what and they went with a local replacement I guess. Im about to yank it off in favor of one of the many E60 MAF sensors I have laying around. It has the more water tight connector and the PFC has a built in table for that sensor(And I have enough of them that if something goes wrong I wont have an issue with replacement). Ive heard of using the N62 MAF on other Nissans that want to be able to flow more through the intake. JWT has a writeup on it, but it seems to me that is pretty much for engines that came with smaller MAF sensors. Thanks for input folks. Ray

I have an off topic update: I recently bought a 91 240sx with a swapped RB25det S1. It has the same ApexI Power FC as my 260ZR as well as the Commander and an AVC-R. For some reason the PO and the original owner that did the swap never purchased the $30 ApexI harness 49C-A002 to integrate the AVCR components into the PFC as the boost controller kit. Well I ordered that. I have a lot of cleanup to do on the car and some misc corrections, but nothing to bad considering some of the S13 swaps Ive seen. I bring this up because the PO was using the Commander. The car was professionally tuned(but not to my liking as it has hickups). The idle was set at 1100rpm as well, probably because they didnt know how to set the TB and IAC properly. Well I have the FC Datalogit on the 260Z. After it failed and was repaired by FC Datalogit and the long process that it took for the repair I decided tht I would try the cheaper competitor the FC HAKO. So I have the FC HAKO on the way and now finally I will be able to compare the two. I already spoke with John at FC HAKO and he stands behind his product 100% and shipped the unit the same day I purchased it! In the case I run into a user induced failure of his unit he will warranty it or repair it at little cost! I hope Im as happy with his product and I will report back with comparisons between the FC Datalogit and the FC HAKO in case anyone is interested. On another note of comparison the S13 has the HKS SSQV(dont know which generation though) and I am running the Synapse BOV on my 260ZR. The SSQV as its currently setup has a slight amount of flutter indicative of surge, and the boost level is around 8psi where the synapse was preforming on a stock turbo at 14.7(1 bar) and the synapse had no hint of surge/flutter. The HKS is loud as well and draws much un-wanted attention to the car and will soon be rectified. I will have to see if there are any adjustments to be made on the HKS SSQV that will reduce the flutter. Soon I will be starting Project 910R NEO RB25det as well. Pat supplied me with the fuel system components I needed. All thats really left is the clutch pedal and the time to make the custom exhaust and intercooler lines. Im not a big Drifto fan, and the car will now be setup as a daily driver. Im not really even a fan of the S13, but this one has enough done to it to be an acceptable DD for now and it has the neat factor for me. I actually surprised how well it handles and drives with all that engine out front. Very different an excitingly un-expected. The car has the potential to be a monster for sure. No I did not smog it before anyone asks. I would never do such a thing. It came smogged. If anyone is interested here is the add: http://zilvia.net/f/cars-sale/494477-1991-nissan-240sx-rb25det-ft-fs.html The Honda wheels are first on the list to go. I will either go with my Enkei series 92 16x7 or convert it to run the 350Z 30th anniversary wheels.

I shoved legalities in their face and they are quickly resolving the issue of the salvage to opt out of my right of recourse... lol I swear though some of these insurance companies straight up harass the victims. Im glad I learned what to do fast. Im also really glad my insurance company is not to be included with these likes of some of these a-hole companies. They arent the best, but they do take care of the victims with little to no issues.

I cut the T3 flange off with a band saw and welded it back on parallel with the valve covers and now a GT35 easily clears both the valve covers and the strut tower. It was the only major mod I had to do. If you have some nice tools cleaning up the inside of the CXracing manifold should be done as they do a really crappy job of putting those tubes together though they look good from the outside.

Update: So I after speaking with an attorney who was willing to take the insurance on and attach the insurance's client to the the law suite, the insurance gave in an offered me $8500 and I suppose to have clean title. So I let the attorney's know and took the $8500. Now half a month later I received notice that my vehicle is being salvaged. So now I have two options: I can demand they go through the steps(which are easier than everyone makes it out to be) to remove the salvage title from my vehicle, OR From the Ca Insurance Code Re-open my claim based on the fact that they did not give me enough to replace my vehicle. To which I can easily prove at this point and already have to them. Its like insurance companies can get away with harassment. This is the SECOND time this has happened within 12 months! Two different insurance companies doing the same crap. DMV just removed the salvage title on my 260Z and I applied for a refund for the past year it has been unlawful to drive though I paid for the registration! I know insurance companies want to pay out as little as possible, but you would think that they would save their own skin and prevent law suites or extra costs by simply following through with what they say or paying closer attention esp when the claim involves an older classic vehicle which could potentially cost them through the nose if its not properly handled. Instead their systems are setup for newer non-classic vehicles and they have no idea how to handle these claims... leaving the victims either screwed and/or opening up the door for them to potentially loose out on even more money. I could in theory demand more than their insured's covered cap at this point due to their mistake and I have the needed proof that will hold up in court to do so. Its a headache for me, but Ive been harassed and bullied for 12 months by insurance companies and now Im gonna stick it to them on their dime. I really hope anyone on this board that has to go through this kind of ordeal follows this and it helps them.

Yes I did though I have a whole rb26 top end for something as well. Those valve covers look nice though and they are powder coated!

My personal opinion is work with what you got if its in good enough shape. I completely stripped out the stock harness and integrated some of it with the RB. I would suggest making the RB wiring as stand alone as possible. Relying on 35-40+ year old harness's to run a modern EFI setup is asking a bit much. pay close attention to your charging system and the fuel pump circuits as those were the areas I had the most problems with as I used the stock 260Z harness and tried to splice them together. I've made some corrections to those areas but only after burning up the fuel pump driver circuit in the ECU once. Its a big task with the stock harness or the painless(which isnt painless). That's just my opinion and you should have a real good look at what you have first before contemplating changing it all out. Ray

In most cases that is exactly what happened. There was one other major contribution to the 30day after roadside checks that was prevalent. Repair facilities failing to accurately diagnose and/or sell the repair of catalysts issues! I cannot tell you how many smogs I did in Sacramento(under test only) where someone with an older vehicle came in and failed, left and came back with a brand new cat from a local muffler shop. It doesn't take 30 days for a cat to have a meltdown when the original problem has not been addressed. I dont believe the Star program even addresses that skew! At the time all I could do was check the catalyst for the CARB serial number and leave a detailed note on the work order hopefully keeping my license and shop clear of any potential issues with BAR. You want to know what is sad. Years ago other nations looked to Ca as an example of how to do programs like Smog Check. Now, They DO NOT! Example something like 15 years ago the Chinese government sent a group of their own over to check out our smog system through CARB. Now other states and countries are looking other places or taking the lead. Personally I believe simplified inspections would go a long way. Oregon and a few eastern states have simplified inspections that are effective and fit the budget. Dont get me wrong, Im all for clean air or I wouldnt be a smog tech. I only own 1 vehicle that I know is a dirty bastard, and its that way because I bought it that way and havent gotten around to making it my own. Other than that one all my vehicles have original emissions equipment or are running cleaner than the original standards for that vehicle and verified.

Its kind of a nightmare for techs and shop owners alike. Some techs will become un-employable due to star scores over stupid shit(Im not speaking of clean piping) while shops suffer due to a lack of qualified techs. Its obviously not impossible to keep a good score or bring your score back up, but Ive caught myself making a few stupid mistakes. Rather than making the testing system a no brainer for the tech they just ding the tech and shop. BAR knows which functional checks are required and what the specs should be. They built the database up and thats exactly how the techs are scored using deviations. A great example being: the system automatically knows that some of the newer vehicles cannot be OBD2 tested because of CAN compatibility and yet the system will still ask you on some and if you miss the pins on the OBD2 connector your screwed and there is no backup feature without continuing the test as a fail and running through the whole test again which costs for each dial out and its a deviation the tech will be dinged on. Im hearing that as a tech I can also be 'dinged' for not scanning in the renewal form, and just typing in the vin code manually. I did something like 13 smogs on Monday and wouldnt you know it all of them forgot their renewal form, past reg with bar code, or they were vehicles entering the state as new registration. So that doesnt make much sense, but I need to confirm this hearsay with my local BAR rep.. That's just 2 examples. All the functional checks are hazardous to the tech. Which vehicles are exempt from EVAP testing due to inaccessibility? That list is also UN-available and its a guessing game whether or not a particular vehicle must have that check. Its really setup to put the responsibility on the techs/shops from my veiw point. A strategy/responsibility that techs nor shops really get paid well enough for. Put it this way. The slap on the wrist BAR can enforce on a tech or shop can be greater than several months income for either! If that was setup to catch clean piping it makes sense, but not for some of the mistakes Im seeing BAR come down on. Gollum knows what Im talking about with his buddy and a particular diesel smog that ended up in a lost license to forfeit the fines. Yes turn in your license and potentially give up your job over a simple mistake or pay an outlandish fine are the options for someone. The state no longer offers update courses either so there is no bi-annual update for techs wanting to stay current with procedures. There are private courses available which can help if you pick the right one, but no state certified program that will keep you on course. This new program could have been implemented in ways to resolve the issues they were finding and it just isnt. The smog program is now officially a monster out of control. These roadside tests were preformed mainly in the greater Sacramento area and Southern California. I know several of the techs and the superiors that were responsible for carrying out and reporting those tests back to ARB. Let me put it this way. 2012/2013 Star Program legislation effectively made BAR an Enforcement ONLY department. Its a way to cut costs for that department while bringing in revenue for the state under enforcement actions. Bottom Line.

Ive spent countless hours searching for tire options. I have to run 16" or bigger rims to clear the 13" rotors front and rear! Im looking at 315-335mm tires that would be acceptable for street use or wet use. I think Ive run out of options in a 16 if I exclude slicks. I have found like 3 tires in 325 for 17" rims but they are competition tires which Im not really trying to get into. Here are some pictures of where Im going with the engine bay. Im going to remove the radiator support and build a new support structure up there to tie the upper frame rails together. Once I get all the ducting in order the engine bay is coming back apart.

Extractor. They make extractors that will do this job. Harbor freight has a cheap set. I would suggest a high quality one. Maybe hit ACE hardware and find the Irwin brand. Its called "pipe extractor". Smash it into the threaded pipe opening where the oil flows. Use a ratchet to get it out. No threads required. I think a good extractor will cost a whopping $20 at a hardware store. They have really expensive ones too.

Unpacked my 2 car garage and organized in a way that I could have a large single space with tools on one side and chemicals/abrasives/cutters on the other side. There is room for my Katana 750 in there as well, but I can now pull in my 260ZR project and start installing new parts and repairing the collision damage that happened 10 months ago.

Im working on using a BlueGuard FE that is made for a gate code to work with the DZ Start.

Reaction Research made the air dam. Its the first one available. John custom made the mold after I spoke to him about having something different than the original 280YZ air dam. Im going to try and make a mold for one more on my own as well for a 3rd type. Thats why I bought the xenon 3124 as Im going for the Bill Coffee look. let me know what you find on that adhesive Clint! Which car had those fenders?

is 22psi crazy? LOL Seriously Im looking to push 18-22psi on the GTX35R to hit the flow numbers for the power I want in the 260ZR project. Im guessing I would be looking at a lower boost pressure on the GT3076R somewhere around 18-20psi. Im gonna be logging some serious dyno time playing around in my near future I think. Im not putting 325mm rubbers on the rears for looks under my new 280yz fenders. From my limited experience you are both right if that makes a difference. There are aspects of both your arguments that I would disagree on, but Im not really looking for the argument. I would be very interested in the .82 A/R turbine housing for the GT3076R I have. Id like to see the difference on the dyno between the two is to put this to bed for me. And If I decide in the end to go with the GTX35R some day I will have a choice of housing A/R for the lower boost (honestly probably 12-15psi ) on the 910R build and my homework will be done.

Techno Toy Tuning Suspension components came in around Christmas. Front and rear adjustable control arms, adjustable TC rods, and I already had the camber plates from a few months back. My only surprise with the T3 components was weight. I was not expecting them to weigh more than the original parts, but I guess it makes sense. An interesting side note for those worried about un-sprung weights. EDIT: I have made several phone calls over the past few weeks regarding wheels. I need to speak with CCW one more time and a few more tire places about 16" tire options. It sounds like a 325 or a 335 tire will fit these fenders. I think I will go with the 325mm all the way around if I can get away with it. Power steering is gonna be a must anyway. I need to order up my forester rack soon. Its gonna be nice to be able to replace inner tie rods and get out tie rods for $20 a pair! 16"x12" at all 4 corners would be really nice, Im off to research what I can find out about tires and rims! My short list: Suspension and Brakes -Tokico BZ3015 rear shock -Arizona Zcar big brakes 13†rotor and 6 piston caliper -Modern Motorsports xtreme 13 rear brakes -CCW wheels 16"x12" 4.5" backspace (up in the air about polished or gloss black centers) -Tires 325? -BM55 MC Engine and Transmission -GTX3582R T3 .82 A/R 4 bolt -034 Motorsports Dual 044 Fuel Pump Mounting Kit With Surge Tank -x2 044 Bosch fuel pump -Fuel Safe Enduro fuel cell FIA FT3 ed115 Body -inner fender wells rear -license plate gas cap door -cage -Subaru Forester Steering rack with Celica outer tie rods Purchased: -Techno Toy Tuning Camber Plates -Reaction Research 280yz kit -LoveFab Exhaust Manifold -2 Optima Red Top batteries -240Z strut -Techno Toy Tuning Front Lower Control Arms -Techno Toy Tuning Rear Lower Control Arms -Techno Toy Tuning Tension Control Rods -xenon 3124 -Klearz front turn signals There is a long list with all the bits and pieces that I know of that I will need for everything.

There are so many dynamics to a turbo charger. I guess that is half the fun. As far as choking goes, the stock turbo on the RB25 is something like a hybrid GT28 and the turbine A/R is close to .46 or .48(unconfirmed) with a smallish turbine wheel. I didnt measure the exhaust back pressure pre turbo, but I was getting readings of 2100+ deg F in the manifold on the pyro gauge under hard pulls. All the RB25's Ive driven with larger turbos have had some serious lag. Even the ones with good components and great tunes. One of my goals with this build is to get the power and keep it as streetable as possible so its a total no-brainer to drive even if my wife climbs into the driver seat. Ray

I would be interested in seeing a T3 turbine for the GT3076R with the .82. 4bolt or clamp style flange? I have a 4 bolt flange with a .63 turbine now I believe. PM with some details Id be interested in at least exploring the options. The 260ZR has a slightly modded engine. Nothing extreme. I will likely stick the GT3076R on the NEO engine thats being prepared for my 82 910.

That's funny Stony, What gears are you using. Im guessing I had a whopping 310 HP at the wheels in my 260Z using 3.70 gears, stock rb25 transmission, and confirmed with a Garmin GPS 147MPH resetting the garmins top speed in 5th gear somewhere not near redline. The stock gauge pulls over past 160mph and just kind of floats down there as if to say "Im to tired for this crap". I have been faster than 147mph in that car, but without the GPS there is no telling exactly how fast. I do know that somewhere above 147mph I loose steering wheel feedback slightly and every little gust of wind or bump in the road has a huge effect on the cars stability. Its not like any of the local tracks I can go to will see speeds higher than that though. Id be surprised at least. The new engine setup and wheels might just propel me there though.

The only time I remove the rails is when the rails are rusted through in spots or its obvious that the rails are rusting from the inside out! I remove them to clean and install a new rail under the floors while treating what I can before hand. Most of the time I am doing something like this though its because Im re-enforcing the car not replacing rails.

I installed a set on my 260Z(240Z style). I used full length rails though. I was glad to have the excess metal. You will need to trim it. Its better to have more than be short! With all the variations in these S30's there isnt a way to make a set of frame rails that fit all 280Z style or all 240Z style rails. More than half of these cars have been jacked improperly underneath or what-not causing stretching or warping of the metal. I had not problems dealing with Bad Dog. I bought one of his first runs at the full length rails. I received a miss-cut rear rail on one side(So it was obvious between both sides) and he was wanting to replace it, but I declined. I just wanted to make him aware of the issue in case it was possibly an issue for any of his other customers so it could be addressed. If you think the rear of the rail should go farther give him and email or call and see what he says about your concerns. Those fronts look right though for what he supplies. Hope that helps